Davejs

A guy brought over a set of headers and he wanted them put on his car. I have put on enough headers to know this is a PIA undertaking. These things went in like a dream without the need to "Clearance" them in the usual spots. Hey great I thought went to put in the plugs and had new problems they required header plugs and nimble fingers to say the least. They were not really bad if you need something anything to get some flow, just don't expect to make the best power and have long life out of them.

surfer93

I had them on my 89 for 5 yrs and held up great.

2 things, they are coated in stuff to keep them from rusting. Heat them up and get the coating off, then paint them with ceramic paint. Second, put a quality gasket on and good bolts w/lock washers.

DO NOT over tighten them, like any header, you can bend the flange if you over tighten, but these are easier than most(thinner flange).

Best thing about these, 1 5/8" tube is best for a stock or near stock engine, do research and it will bear me out.

Make sure you put a heat shield between headers and brake booster or you will be VERY soorrrryyyy.

bill mcdonald

lost mine this way, so I did a little DIY on mine.

cv67

Equal length headers as said are a complete waste of money and could complicate your install. Youll never notice the difference even with a highly modded motor. I bought into that bit and regret it.

Maybe the ones on the C4 are easier to deal with.

surfer93

I have had mine for over 5 yrs and no rust, plus I use regular plugs with zero problems installing them.
The 1 5/8" primaries are great for stock or near stock, because you gain hp and tq on stock or near stock and they make best power for stock engines, did you have a heavily modded engine?

I had great luck and made good power on stock LT1 engine and 1 5/8 are perfect for L98's as you get great HP gains and a little TQ gain.
Though I would not put 1 5/8 primaries on a modded engine, I would go to 1 3/4(what I am doing now) or 1 7/8.

AUTO90VETTE

Yes I just have a stock l98 so that sounds like a good match! Thanks for the input!

cv67

Youll love the 1-5.8

I wouldnt move up to a 1-3/4 unless you were adding some cubic inches or over the 450hp mark. IMO too many run larger primaries than needed but to each their own.

surfer93

farva

i needed to bring this back up... what does one do about the breather tube running from the stock passenger side header to the motor if installing aftermarket headers? I am a little confused as to what the tube does or what to do with the opening where it connects to the motor if the tube isnt in use.

AUTO90VETTE

The left one I believe is the Egr tube?

TJM

The other is your AIR tube, air pump plumbing.

The EGR has function, the AIR is Emissions only .

If you need Emissions inspections you'll liklely need both.

TJM

farva

so what do i do if i get a set of headers that have no port for the ERG pipe to go?

and as for emissions... i live in florida. I could literally run open heads and drive anywhere i wanted

ch@0s

You block off the EGR with block off plates. Do a search for those on line.

tehcarguy

Get rid of it. I am currently in the process of deleting that stupid pipe. You can just make a block off plate where it bolts to the manifold.

farva

seriously? i have a buddy that has been working on chevy small block motors for some years now and he said it does serve a purpose, although not a big one. He said i wont have problems not running the pipe but will have a check engine light on at all times? He suggested i get the headers, drill a hole, and weld a port to the new set of headers... any thoughts on that?

AUTO90VETTE

I've read that too, was gonna run a Egr block off plate and delete that stuff, but the check engine light would stay on and that would drive me crazy

Davejs

You can add a vacu pan into the header collector and run the egr air pump into that and stay legal with all the performance gains and no check engine light should come on then.

farva

it would drive me nutty also. I am planning to get a new set of short headers just to go for a nicer look and am cutting the EGR port off of the old header and drilling and welding it to the new ones. A ton of people have told me to just go ahead and do the long headers but i really dont care. I am having problems with the current stock ones being a total eye sore. They are gross from oil drip and if im taking them off to replace the gasketes and i am not putting the gross old ones back on.

tehcarguy

I've got the EGr valve and the pipe off my car and it hasn't set the check engine light...

black85

Yea I would like to know too, b/c my TPIS headers were expensive and they are rusting. I thought they were stainless when I bought them for $700 or whatever they cost. Could I have gotten the same performance for under $200!?!