Good one though.
Stroking
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Stroking
Going to stroke my '86. Looking for opinions from those that have used any of these components:
Scat 435050L crank
Scat 6600021QLS rods
SRP 138093 pistons
I know that a forged rotating assembly is overkill for the power I'll be making now, but looking ahead. Just looking for opinions from those that have used these parts.
Thanks.
Scat 435050L crank
Scat 6600021QLS rods
SRP 138093 pistons
I know that a forged rotating assembly is overkill for the power I'll be making now, but looking ahead. Just looking for opinions from those that have used these parts.
Thanks.
Last edited by Ray Quayle; Jan 17, 2011 at 01:41 PM.
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Le Mans Master
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Melting Slicks
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As long as you're going forged internals, why not stroke for a 396? The crank is the same cost. With some different rods, the clearancing required is nearly the same.
My 396 is being assembled now using an Eagle 4340 crank, SRP pistons and Crower rods. I went with Crower Sportsman Stroker rods to minimize clearancing and allow use of a standard base circle cam. The additional Hp and torque is pretty cost effective when compared to other mods.
My 396 is being assembled now using an Eagle 4340 crank, SRP pistons and Crower rods. I went with Crower Sportsman Stroker rods to minimize clearancing and allow use of a standard base circle cam. The additional Hp and torque is pretty cost effective when compared to other mods.
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Thread Starter
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As long as you're going forged internals, why not stroke for a 396? The crank is the same cost. With some different rods, the clearancing required is nearly the same.
My 396 is being assembled now using an Eagle 4340 crank, SRP pistons and Crower rods. I went with Crower Sportsman Stroker rods to minimize clearancing and allow use of a standard base circle cam. The additional Hp and torque is pretty cost effective when compared to other mods.
My 396 is being assembled now using an Eagle 4340 crank, SRP pistons and Crower rods. I went with Crower Sportsman Stroker rods to minimize clearancing and allow use of a standard base circle cam. The additional Hp and torque is pretty cost effective when compared to other mods.
Last edited by Ray Quayle; May 31, 2016 at 02:39 AM.
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Going to stroke my '86. Looking for opinions from those that have used any of these components:
Scat 435050L crank
Scat 6600021QLS rods
SRP 138093 pistons
Forged is overkill for the power I'll be making now, but looking ahead. Just looking for opinions from those that have used these parts.
Thanks.
Scat 435050L crank
Scat 6600021QLS rods
SRP 138093 pistons
Forged is overkill for the power I'll be making now, but looking ahead. Just looking for opinions from those that have used these parts.
Thanks.
$500 rods? Really? Why? $200 gets a good set. For the extra $300 go with a forged crank!
Pistons look like a great choice. 4032 allows for tighter clearnance when you're installing forged pistons.
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I used the crank...so far no problem. Many, many builders like this best for a non-forged option.
$500 rods? Really? Why? $200 gets a good set. For the extra $300 go with a forged crank!
Pistons look like a great choice. 4032 allows for tighter clearnance when you're installing forged pistons.
$500 rods? Really? Why? $200 gets a good set. For the extra $300 go with a forged crank!
Pistons look like a great choice. 4032 allows for tighter clearnance when you're installing forged pistons.
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Sorry. Mine's the 935050L. I'd forgotten the first digit.
Since you looking for lighter, have you considered the Professional Series of the SRP line...
http://www.jepistons.com/Catalogs/SR..._flat-pro.aspx
Since you looking for lighter, have you considered the Professional Series of the SRP line...
http://www.jepistons.com/Catalogs/SR..._flat-pro.aspx
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Since you looking for lighter, have you considered the Professional Series of the SRP line...
http://www.jepistons.com/Catalogs/SR..._flat-pro.aspx
http://www.jepistons.com/Catalogs/SR..._flat-pro.aspx
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Got your email. Selling the bolts will allow me to buy the lighter pistons.
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As for the 25g vs 36g decision, I'd wonder if lighter weight further out from the crank translates to a bigger inertia savings. IOW, I gotta wonder if the RA "sees" more of the piston weight than the rods. RA is one thing. The reciprocation issue has to be another.
There could be other frictional differences between the two piston options as well. I haven't compared what you're selecting to the Pro line, but I came away pretty impressed with the SRP Pro stuff after I read/learned about it!
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From: loughborough Leics ENGLAND
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Gotcha. I don't know if you're driving a stick or auto. I decided against the light-weight stuff just because the DMF is so friggin' heavy. Kinda hard to offset all of it's weight, don't-you-know!
As for the 25g vs 36g decision, I'd wonder if lighter weight further out from the crank translates to a bigger inertia savings. IOW, I gotta wonder if the RA "sees" more of the piston weight than the rods. RA is one thing. The reciprocation issue has to be another.
There could be other frictional differences between the two piston options as well. I haven't compared what you're selecting to the Pro line, but I came away pretty impressed with the SRP Pro stuff after I read/learned about it!
As for the 25g vs 36g decision, I'd wonder if lighter weight further out from the crank translates to a bigger inertia savings. IOW, I gotta wonder if the RA "sees" more of the piston weight than the rods. RA is one thing. The reciprocation issue has to be another.
There could be other frictional differences between the two piston options as well. I haven't compared what you're selecting to the Pro line, but I came away pretty impressed with the SRP Pro stuff after I read/learned about it!