Stroking

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Jan 16, 2011 | 07:19 AM

Ray Quayle

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Stroking

Going to stroke my '86. Looking for opinions from those that have used any of these components:

Scat 435050L crank
Scat 6600021QLS rods
SRP 138093 pistons

I know that a forged rotating assembly is overkill for the power I'll be making now, but looking ahead. Just looking for opinions from those that have used these parts.

Thanks.

Last edited by Ray Quayle; Jan 17, 2011 at 01:41 PM.

Jan 16, 2011 | 08:29 AM

96 lt-4

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From: Angier nc

You will be fine with all of the above.Just make sure you have the machinist check all clearances.Not everything is spot on out of the box(no matter who makes it).

Jan 16, 2011 | 10:47 AM

Ray Quayle

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 96 lt-4

You will be fine with all of the above.Just make sure you have the machinist check all clearances.Not everything is spot on out of the box(no matter who makes it).

Understood, many thanks for your input.

Jan 16, 2011 | 11:46 AM

Raidmagic

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From: Brandon Fl

Damn Ray, I thought you were just going to do heads and intake? Once you start you just can't stop!

Jan 16, 2011 | 11:53 AM

ch@0s

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Raidmagic

Damn Ray, I thought you were just going to do heads and intake? Once you start you just can't stop!

You're telling me? I have been looking for a 84-85 C4 to do a LSX swap with.

Here's your hew song Ray:

Jan 16, 2011 | 04:33 PM

Ray Quayle

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Raidmagic

Damn Ray, I thought you were just going to do heads and intake? Once you start you just can't stop!

Yea Steve, this all started as an engine bay clean up!

Jan 16, 2011 | 04:35 PM

Ray Quayle

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ch@0s

You're telling me? I have been looking for a 84-85 C4 to do a LSX swap with.

Here's your hew song Ray:

Not exactly the kind of stroking I had in mind Rafie!

Good one though.

Jan 16, 2011 | 05:18 PM

cumbercr

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From: Santa Maria, CA

As long as you're going forged internals, why not stroke for a 396? The crank is the same cost. With some different rods, the clearancing required is nearly the same.

My 396 is being assembled now using an Eagle 4340 crank, SRP pistons and Crower rods. I went with Crower Sportsman Stroker rods to minimize clearancing and allow use of a standard base circle cam. The additional Hp and torque is pretty cost effective when compared to other mods.

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Jan 16, 2011 | 09:03 PM

Ray Quayle

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Quote:

Originally Posted by cumbercr

That's and excellant point, Craig. I'll have to check with the machine shop. I don't think I can afford those Crower stroker rods though and I'm not sure how confortable I am with clearancing for a 396. 383 may be my limit on this one. Thanks for your input.

Last edited by Ray Quayle; May 31, 2016 at 02:39 AM.

Jan 17, 2011 | 12:10 PM

#10

GREGGPENN

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray Quayle

Going to stroke my '86. Looking for opinions from those that have used any of these components:

Scat 435050L crank
Scat 6600021QLS rods
SRP 138093 pistons

Forged is overkill for the power I'll be making now, but looking ahead. Just looking for opinions from those that have used these parts.

Thanks.

I used the crank...so far no problem. Many, many builders like this best for a non-forged option.

$500 rods? Really? Why? $200 gets a good set. For the extra $300 go with a forged crank!

Pistons look like a great choice. 4032 allows for tighter clearnance when you're installing forged pistons.

Jan 17, 2011 | 01:20 PM

#11

Davejs

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The main thing with doing a 383 is heads and intake do not breath at all. I just got my 383 off the dyno a couple weeks ago and with good heads and intake 450hp 465tq and that was a small HFT cam.

Jan 17, 2011 | 01:39 PM

#12

Ray Quayle

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Quote:

Originally Posted by GREGGPENN

Gregg, That Scat 435050L crank is forged. For the rods I was trying to go a bit lighter and these seemed reasonable. Thanks for the input. Looks like nobody has had any horror stories with these parts. That's a relief.

Jan 17, 2011 | 02:55 PM

#13

GREGGPENN

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray Quayle

Gregg, That Scat 435050L crank is forged.

Sorry. Mine's the 935050L. I'd forgotten the first digit.

Since you looking for lighter, have you considered the Professional Series of the SRP line...
http://www.jepistons.com/Catalogs/SR..._flat-pro.aspx

Jan 17, 2011 | 05:50 PM

#14

BLUE ONE

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From: loughborough Leics ENGLAND

Ray im going with Scat crank and stroker rods and Icon pistons from performance unlimited.

By the way im Mark, been talking to you about ARP head bolts tonight.

Jan 18, 2011 | 03:25 AM

#15

Ray Quayle

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Quote:

Originally Posted by GREGGPENN

Since you looking for lighter, have you considered the Professional Series of the SRP line...
http://www.jepistons.com/Catalogs/SR..._flat-pro.aspx

Gregg, I wish you hadn't mentioned them. In a perfect world, I'd go both with the pistons you pointed out and the lighter H-Beam rods I've ordered, but for me, it's not a perfect world and these pistons are about $100 more. I could go with the Scat I beam rods and save $200, then go with these pistons and still save $100 of what I'd originally budgeted, but the pistons shave about 25 grams, the rods shave 36. Thanks for the info, in the end I'll probably go with both. I'll find the extra $100 somewhere.

Jan 18, 2011 | 03:27 AM

#16

Ray Quayle

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BLUE ONE

Ray im going with Scat crank and stroker rods and Icon pistons from performance unlimited.

By the way im Mark, been talking to you about ARP head bolts tonight.

Mark, you going with the same forged 435050L crank and 6600021QLS ultra light rods?

Got your email. Selling the bolts will allow me to buy the lighter pistons.

Jan 18, 2011 | 03:23 PM

#17

kimmer

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Sorry, when I saw the thread title I expected to see a hot chick.

Jan 18, 2011 | 03:48 PM

#18

GREGGPENN

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray Quayle

I could go with the Scat I beam rods and save $200, then go with these pistons and still save $100 of what I'd originally budgeted, but the pistons shave about 25 grams, the rods shave 36. Thanks for the info, in the end I'll probably go with both.

Gotcha. I don't know if you're driving a stick or auto. I decided against the light-weight stuff just because the DMF is so friggin' heavy. Kinda hard to offset all of it's weight, don't-you-know!

As for the 25g vs 36g decision, I'd wonder if lighter weight further out from the crank translates to a bigger inertia savings. IOW, I gotta wonder if the RA "sees" more of the piston weight than the rods. RA is one thing. The reciprocation issue has to be another.

There could be other frictional differences between the two piston options as well. I haven't compared what you're selecting to the Pro line, but I came away pretty impressed with the SRP Pro stuff after I read/learned about it!

Jan 18, 2011 | 04:58 PM

#19

BLUE ONE

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From: loughborough Leics ENGLAND

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray Quayle

Mark, you going with the same forged 435050L crank and 6600021QLS ultra light rods?

Got your email. Selling the bolts will allow me to buy the lighter pistons.

Same 6inch rods but cast 9000 crank, no plans to upgrade further so should be fine for my application........but with 400g forged piston weight to allow internal balancing and std size 350 damper to clear cross member.

Jan 18, 2011 | 05:20 PM

#20

Ray Quayle

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Quote:

Originally Posted by GREGGPENN

I see what you mean Gregg. I have the 4+3 so a standard flywheel. I've ordered those SRP Pros you mentioned #268830. Hell it's only money, if I didn't spend it on this, I'd spend it on something stupid like food or clothes. We'll see how it goes. Many thanks.

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