C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 05:35 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BLUE ONE
Same 6inch rods but cast 9000 crank, no plans to upgrade further so should be fine for my application........but with 400g forged piston weight to allow internal balancing and std size 350 damper to clear cross member.
Mark, those rods are so much more money than the I beam rods, why did you choose them? I wanted to save weight, but at no more than 5200 RPMs, I don't suppose it matters much. Why did I spend what I've spent on a 2 bolt non-roller block with an LTR intake? Polishing a turd, I guess!
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 06:03 PM
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I just keep looking at the bore where my piston and rod should be and think i never what to see that happen again LOL. So a bit of extra insurance and weight saving, more to ease internal balancing than high RPM potential. Like you say we all go OTT somewhere along the way..................
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Ray Quayle
I see what you mean Gregg. I have the 4+3 so a standard flywheel. I've ordered those SRP Pros you mentioned #268830. Hell it's only money, if I didn't spend it on this, I'd spend it on something stupid like food or clothes. We'll see how it goes. Many thanks.
I think you made the right choice. I forgot to mention the ring package also has to differ in weight. I couldn't find the difference with a quick check today, but I am thinking the 25g difference in the pistons themselves doesn't tell the whole story.

For one thing, you stepped up to a smaller, thinner ring set. It's comparable to the new stuff GM is putting in LS motors. Plus, it has a Napier ring for optimum oil control. By itself, this reduction in friction should outpace the 36 vs 25g difference you thought was a better option. (Plus, if you can find the ring-weight difference, I bet you've gained MORE than 36g.)

Did you read the FAQ info on the Pro vs Standard line of pistons?

SRP Professional is the latest addition to the SRP product line. These high performance piston kits include many advanced features while maintaining a price similar to the existing SRP Piston line when purchased with rings. New features include lightweight FSR forgings, accumulator grooves and high quality 2.250" long wrist pins. In addition, the SRP Professional line features an industry first 1.2mm, 1.5mm, 3.0mm ring package. The 1.2mm carbon steel nitrided top ring is extremely durable and offers reduced friction over 1.5mm and 1/16" top rings. A 1.5mm Napier (hooked face) 2nd ring is used to improve oil control over conventional taper-faced rings. The combination of these new features can reduce the piston assembly weight up to 81 grams when compared to traditional SRP Pistons. Weight savings can be even greater when compared to other forged piston brands.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
I think you made the right choice. I forgot to mention the ring package also has to differ in weight. I couldn't find the difference with a quick check today, but I am thinking the 25g difference in the pistons themselves doesn't tell the whole story.

For one thing, you stepped up to a smaller, thinner ring set. It's comparable to the new stuff GM is putting in LS motors. Plus, it has a Napier ring for optimum oil control. By itself, this reduction in friction should outpace the 36 vs 25g difference you thought was a better option. (Plus, if you can find the ring-weight difference, I bet you've gained MORE than 36g.)

Did you read the FAQ info on the Pro vs Standard line of pistons?

SRP Professional is the latest addition to the SRP product line. These high performance piston kits include many advanced features while maintaining a price similar to the existing SRP Piston line when purchased with rings. New features include lightweight FSR forgings, accumulator grooves and high quality 2.250" long wrist pins. In addition, the SRP Professional line features an industry first 1.2mm, 1.5mm, 3.0mm ring package. The 1.2mm carbon steel nitrided top ring is extremely durable and offers reduced friction over 1.5mm and 1/16" top rings. A 1.5mm Napier (hooked face) 2nd ring is used to improve oil control over conventional taper-faced rings. The combination of these new features can reduce the piston assembly weight up to 81 grams when compared to traditional SRP Pistons. Weight savings can be even greater when compared to other forged piston brands.
I did read that Gregg, one of the reasons I decided to go with them. Thanks again for your help.

Got another question, that I'm sure sounds kind of dumb, but don't want to get stuck with the wrong part. The crank I ordered, is Scat 4-350-3750-5700-L. Is listed as 3.750" stroke and 5.7" rods. They don't list a one piece rear main crank for 6" rods, but they have the two piece rear main crank for 5.7" rods (4-350-3750-5700) and 6" rods (4-350-3750-6000). Am I stuffed because I have the one piece rear main or will the extra .300" be compensated by the raised pin position of the piston?

Last edited by Ray Quayle; May 31, 2016 at 02:46 AM.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 07:21 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Ray Quayle
I did read that Gregg, one of the reasons I decided to go with them. Thanks again for you help.

Got another question, that I'm sure sounds kind of dump, but don't want to get stuck with the wrong part. The crank I ordered, is Scat 4-350-3750-5700-L. Is listed as 3.750" stroke and 5.7" rods. They don't list a one piece rear main crank for 6" rods, but they have the two piece rear main crank for 5.7" rods (4-350-3750-5700) and 6" rods (4-350-3750-6000). Am I stuffed because I have the one piece rear main or will the extra .300" be compensated by the raised pin position of the piston?
I don't believe Scat has a forged crank for a 1 piece seal with 6 inch rods. I ran into that when I was looking for a crank for my 396. I ended up going with an Eagle crank instead.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Ray Quayle
The crank I ordered, is Scat 4-350-3750-5700-L. Is listed as 3.750" stroke and 5.7" rods. They don't list a one piece rear main crank for 6" rods, but they have the two piece rear main crank for 5.7" rods (4-350-3750-5700) and 6" rods (4-350-3750-6000). Am I stuffed because I have the one piece rear main or will the extra .300" be compensated by the raised pin position of the piston?
I'd call Scat on that. Seems to me I was under the same impression (that Scat didn't make a 1-pc RMS 383 forged crank for 6" rods). I also wanted a 6" forged setup but thought I couldn't get it in SCAT with a 1-pc RMS. So, I started considering the 5.7" option more seriously. Then, I found a 5.7" set of Wiseco pistons for a killer price. Then, my builder convinced me I didn't need forged when I found a $150 builder's Scat 935050L.

After going thru all this, I finally discovered the 6" option for forged later on. I'm thinking it may be the 435050L also works with 6" rods. I almost decided to resell my cast stuff but, again, my builder talked me out of it.

Anyway, call to make sure on that. I'm betting that 5700 crank does work with 6" rods.

(The raised piston pin position does compensate for the longer rod.)

Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jan 19, 2011 at 07:59 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 08:04 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
I'd call Scat on that. Seems to me I was under the same impression (that Scat didn't make a 1-pc RMS 383 forged crank for 6" rods). I also wanted a 6" forged setup but thought I couldn't get it in SCAT with a 1-pc RMS. So, I started considering the 5.7" option more seriously. Then, I found a 5.7" set of Wiseco pistons for a killer price. Then, my builder convinced me I didn't need forged when I found a $150 builder's Scat 935050L.

After going thru all this, I finally discovered the 6" option for forged later on. I'm thinking it may be the 435050L also works with 6" rods. I almost decided to resell my cast stuff but, again, my builder talked me out of it.

Anyway, call to make sure on that. I'm betting that 5700 crank does work with 6" rods.

(The raised piston pin position does compensate for the longer rod.)
I downloaded the latest Scat catalog when I was in the hunt. You won't find it there.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 06:40 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Ray Quayle
Hell it's only money, if I didn't spend it on this, I'd spend it on something stupid like food or clothes. We'll see how it goes. Many thanks.
LOL...
Ray,
I like the way you think. I've felt it's better to do what you're going to do now to the lower end and have no regrets. Later down the road if wanting to change cams, heads, intakes, and or do power adders is easy, and can then be a real possibility if the rest can support the mods.
Good luck on your project,
Mick
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 08:57 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by cumbercr
I downloaded the latest Scat catalog when I was in the hunt. You won't find it there.
Yeah, I'd done that too. I didn't find out about the option until I called last summer. Again, it seems like the 5.7 crank is compatible with 6" rods. I can't remember the details though.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 03:07 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by mseven
LOL...
Ray,
I like the way you think. I've felt it's better to do what you're going to do now to the lower end and have no regrets. Later down the road if wanting to change cams, heads, intakes, and or do power adders is easy, and can then be a real possibility if the rest can support the mods.
Good luck on your project,
Mick
Thanks, Mick. I may be calling on your considerable expertise when tuning time comes. If I end up deciding I need adult supervision for final tweeking, roughly how much are we looking at for your assistance? Feel free to email or PM if you don't want to price quote here.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 03:21 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
Yeah, I'd done that too. I didn't find out about the option until I called last summer. Again, it seems like the 5.7 crank is compatible with 6" rods. I can't remember the details though.
I think you're right Gregg. I haven't heard back from Scat yet, but it seems that the difference is in the counterweights and that the rod length listed for each crank is the minimum rod length recommended for that crank for ease of balancing. I'll let y'all know what Scat actually says, but since all the forged one piece 383 complete rotating assemblies use the 4-350-3480-5700L crank regardless of 5.7" or 6" rod length, I think I'm OK. Stay tuned.
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 05:10 AM
  #32  
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Ray i think our on the right lines. If you used a 5.7 rod with the 6.0 rod spec crank the piston skirts will contact the counterweights. This is the issue. Using the 6.0 rod with the 5.7 spec crank is not an issue as far as i am aware. Balancing should be ok with the lighter pistons you have picked.
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 06:08 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by BLUE ONE
Ray i think our on the right lines. If you used a 5.7 rod with the 6.0 rod spec crank the piston skirts will contact the counterweights. This is the issue. Using the 6.0 rod with the 5.7 spec crank is not an issue as far as i am aware. Balancing should be ok with the lighter pistons you have picked.
Yea Mark, I'm pretty sure the rod length listed for the crank is minimum rod length, so I'm pretty confident.

Shoot me an email so we can get these bolts shipped.
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