Pulling 700r4
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Pulling 700r4
I am almost done pulling out my 700r4 transmission. I have a couple of questions that I need help on.
How would I pull the 2 oil tubes on the servo side of tranny?
How do you guys pull the top 2 bolts on the housing?
And that's where I'm stuck at, but any help would be greatly appreciated!
How would I pull the 2 oil tubes on the servo side of tranny?
How do you guys pull the top 2 bolts on the housing?
And that's where I'm stuck at, but any help would be greatly appreciated!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 3,494
Likes: 36
From: Livermore Ca
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
When I did mine the oil lines unbolt.
For the two top bolts a used I think its a 5/8 on a univeral joint and 2 long extension. (I used 3/8 and 1/2 extension 3'or 2')
For the two top bolts a used I think its a 5/8 on a univeral joint and 2 long extension. (I used 3/8 and 1/2 extension 3'or 2')
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
You mean loosen the cooler lines from the trans fittings?
It was a real pain in the azz for me. It took some extensions with wobble joint and 1/2" size flared crowfoot socket to loosen them. It wasn't going to happen by getting my hand up there. A regular non flare crowfoot will want to round off the 1/2" fitting on the line.
It was a real pain in the azz for me. It took some extensions with wobble joint and 1/2" size flared crowfoot socket to loosen them. It wasn't going to happen by getting my hand up there. A regular non flare crowfoot will want to round off the 1/2" fitting on the line.
Last edited by 86PACER; Jan 21, 2011 at 12:50 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
9/16" socket
Support trans , remove C Beam and lower trans as far as it will go.
Watch for dist hitting firewall .Taking dist out will give more room to angle engine down
Support engine , you now have more room to get the socket on extensions over the bellhousing to bolts.
Works the same in reverse
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,697
Likes: 1,666
From: moraga ca
9/16" socket
Support trans , remove C Beam and lower trans as far as it will go.
Watch for dist hitting firewall .Taking dist out will give more room to angle engine down
Support engine , you now have more room to get the socket on extensions over the bellhousing to bolts.
Works the same in reverse
If you lower the tranny, you will have access to the upper bolts and the fitting will be easier to remove. Take the cap off the distributor. That should give you enough room. Simpler than removing the whole unit.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 581
Likes: 60
From: USA
trans cooler lines: flare-nut crow-foot damn near mandatory. wouldn't want to do it without that. i got mine from Snap-On ages ago (and gotten a lot of use out of it since), but i see that Harbor Freight has them now.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 252
Likes: 5
From: bethlehem PA
trans bolts
another good trick is, on each side put a bolt back in that is easy to get at before you remove the two difficult upper mounting bolts. this way the trans wont fall out wile you struggle with the upper bolts
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Ok thank you that all worked great! One more question on the left side of the transmission there is 3 bolts close to eachother and then there is a middle one? How do I get that one out I am stuck on it now??
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 762
Likes: 1
From: Huntington ma
For what it's worth.. I generally do the top two bell housing bolts from the Top. With the distributor out (and also the wiper motor cover removed, it gains some valve cover clearance later by doing that), c-beam out and the tail of the transmission jacked UP as far as it'll go.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 14,924
Likes: 9
From: Merritt Ils Fl
For what it's worth.. I generally do the top two bell housing bolts from the Top. With the distributor out (and also the wiper motor cover removed, it gains some valve cover clearance later by doing that), c-beam out and the tail of the transmission jacked UP as far as it'll go.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,050
Likes: 147
From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
I use a 4 foot extension (3 or 4 expensions snapped together) and a 9/16 wiggly socket.
for the tubes, I just remove the lower one, then undo the upper one using an angle wrench (a wrench with exagerated angles)
First, disconnect the battery, support the engine , remove the rear u joint, then remove the bolts in the C beam.
Then the top two bolts in the bell housing, then the 3 in the torque converter, slide it back, then slide the trans jack under the trans and support it.
THen undo the two bolts on the shifter cable, the vss, the TCC plug, then remove the rest of the bolts and slide the trans free of the beam and lower it.
Because I can't get the car high enough to get the trans out on the jack, I put a scrap sheet of aluminum (flashing material wil do as well) on the ground, and smear it with wheel bearing grease. lay a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood 18" square on the grease, and slide the trans onto the plywood. Then slide the wood and trans to the front wheel well, and tip the trans tailshaft up so the trans isn't as tall, and slide it out the side. Use a block of wood or a metal chock to keep it tipped while you drag.
Reverse the procedure to install.
To get the trans onto the jack, leave the torque converter off the trans till mounted, then install the torque converter after the trans is level again. Jack into place.
Bolt up the easy 4 bolts, but you may need to use a coat hanger to support the wire bundle at the back of the engine to keep any wires from slipping into the gap between the trans and the engine, then use extra long bolts to align the trans to the engine, then medium length bolts to help draw the trans to the engine, then the actual permanent bolts.
for the tubes, I just remove the lower one, then undo the upper one using an angle wrench (a wrench with exagerated angles)
First, disconnect the battery, support the engine , remove the rear u joint, then remove the bolts in the C beam.
Then the top two bolts in the bell housing, then the 3 in the torque converter, slide it back, then slide the trans jack under the trans and support it.
THen undo the two bolts on the shifter cable, the vss, the TCC plug, then remove the rest of the bolts and slide the trans free of the beam and lower it.
Because I can't get the car high enough to get the trans out on the jack, I put a scrap sheet of aluminum (flashing material wil do as well) on the ground, and smear it with wheel bearing grease. lay a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood 18" square on the grease, and slide the trans onto the plywood. Then slide the wood and trans to the front wheel well, and tip the trans tailshaft up so the trans isn't as tall, and slide it out the side. Use a block of wood or a metal chock to keep it tipped while you drag.
Reverse the procedure to install.
To get the trans onto the jack, leave the torque converter off the trans till mounted, then install the torque converter after the trans is level again. Jack into place.
Bolt up the easy 4 bolts, but you may need to use a coat hanger to support the wire bundle at the back of the engine to keep any wires from slipping into the gap between the trans and the engine, then use extra long bolts to align the trans to the engine, then medium length bolts to help draw the trans to the engine, then the actual permanent bolts.
Last edited by coupeguy2001; Jan 23, 2011 at 12:01 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 5
I use a 4 foot extension (3 or 4 expensions snapped together) and a 9/16 wiggly socket.
for the tubes, I just remove the lower one, then undo the upper one using an angle wrench (a wrench with exagerated angles)
First, disconnect the battery, support the engine , remove the rear u joint, then remove the bolts in the C beam.
Then the top two bolts in the bell housing, then the 3 in the torque converter, slide it back, then slide the trans jack under the trans and support it.
THen undo the two bolts on the shifter cable, the vss, the TCC plug, then remove the rest of the bolts and slide the trans free of the beam and lower it.
Because I can't get the car high enough to get the trans out on the jack, I put a scrap sheet of aluminum (flashing material wil do as well) on the ground, and smear it with wheel bearing grease. lay a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood 18" square on the grease, and slide the trans onto the plywood. Then slide the wood and trans to the front wheel well, and tip the trans tailshaft up so the trans isn't as tall, and slide it out the side. Use a block of wood or a metal chock to keep it tipped while you drag.
Reverse the procedure to install.
To get the trans onto the jack, leave the torque converter off the trans till mounted, then install the torque converter after the trans is level again. Jack into place.
Bolt up the easy 4 bolts, but you may need to use a coat hanger to support the wire bundle at the back of the engine to keep any wires from slipping into the gap between the trans and the engine, then use extra long bolts to align the trans to the engine, then medium length bolts to help draw the trans to the engine, then the actual permanent bolts.
for the tubes, I just remove the lower one, then undo the upper one using an angle wrench (a wrench with exagerated angles)
First, disconnect the battery, support the engine , remove the rear u joint, then remove the bolts in the C beam.
Then the top two bolts in the bell housing, then the 3 in the torque converter, slide it back, then slide the trans jack under the trans and support it.
THen undo the two bolts on the shifter cable, the vss, the TCC plug, then remove the rest of the bolts and slide the trans free of the beam and lower it.
Because I can't get the car high enough to get the trans out on the jack, I put a scrap sheet of aluminum (flashing material wil do as well) on the ground, and smear it with wheel bearing grease. lay a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood 18" square on the grease, and slide the trans onto the plywood. Then slide the wood and trans to the front wheel well, and tip the trans tailshaft up so the trans isn't as tall, and slide it out the side. Use a block of wood or a metal chock to keep it tipped while you drag.
Reverse the procedure to install.
To get the trans onto the jack, leave the torque converter off the trans till mounted, then install the torque converter after the trans is level again. Jack into place.
Bolt up the easy 4 bolts, but you may need to use a coat hanger to support the wire bundle at the back of the engine to keep any wires from slipping into the gap between the trans and the engine, then use extra long bolts to align the trans to the engine, then medium length bolts to help draw the trans to the engine, then the actual permanent bolts.
Very well spoken by you also.
BR
