Carburetor performance?
#22
Advanced
Thread Starter
Well I suppose there's nothing left to do but stick a carb on there and find out. I'll take her to the track. Btw, I believe I already have 1.6 RR so that should help already. Gotta pull the valve covers and take a peek when this snow clears. Where can I get a fuel pressure regulator for my system?
#23
Le Mans Master
Josh, I would install a 5-7 PSI pump instead of the 14 PSI pump you have now. Your pressure will eventually limit the overall life of the regulator, then zap your floats, and the final result will be gas running out of every orifice in the carb including the external vents and you may end up with a fire.
Be sure to route the fuel back to the tank to prevent vapor lock. at low vehicle speeds you will percolate the fuel and cause vaporlock if you don't. The biggest contributor of the underhood temps are the bottom breathing cooling air and the SMC that the car is made of. These alone may help reduce your overall horsepower output by elevated fuel temps. This is one reason the fuel injection system works so well in warmer climates and hotter running engines.
Expect your fuel mileage to drop 5-7 miles per gallon as well.
Be sure to route the fuel back to the tank to prevent vapor lock. at low vehicle speeds you will percolate the fuel and cause vaporlock if you don't. The biggest contributor of the underhood temps are the bottom breathing cooling air and the SMC that the car is made of. These alone may help reduce your overall horsepower output by elevated fuel temps. This is one reason the fuel injection system works so well in warmer climates and hotter running engines.
Expect your fuel mileage to drop 5-7 miles per gallon as well.
#24
i keep telling you ,your almost doubling the cfm in air witch is raw hp. double the air along with a 6500rpm cam and youll get more then 330hp. youll be up around 350hp, Look at the 67 chevell 327/325hp, same heads as a350/260hp vette. the intake runners on a c4 are so small, you can blow more cfm's then they will,and yes i can give you some dyno sheets, whats the big deal, its just a hoppy to me
#26
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
As Rodj said, lets see some dyno sheets. I doubt that you(davenbocafl) know what 400 hp IS. You were probably around 230 hp in "phase 1" and maybe "300 in Phase II"
lol.
#27
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
#28
Did a carb swap on my 84 few years ago.
Edelbrock 600cfm carter style carb with, Edelbrock Performer EPS Intake, Patriot Performance SB-Chevy 190CC Freedom Series Heads, Lunati 60101LK - Lunati Voodoo Hydraulic Camshaft Duration @ .050 IN/EX : 213°/219° Gross Valve lift IN/EX .454''/.468'' . I prob picked up about 100 horses. Sucker pulled hard all the way to 6500 rpms.
Edelbrock 600cfm carter style carb with, Edelbrock Performer EPS Intake, Patriot Performance SB-Chevy 190CC Freedom Series Heads, Lunati 60101LK - Lunati Voodoo Hydraulic Camshaft Duration @ .050 IN/EX : 213°/219° Gross Valve lift IN/EX .454''/.468'' . I prob picked up about 100 horses. Sucker pulled hard all the way to 6500 rpms.
#29
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
^you didn't pick up 100 horses by swapping to a carb though. You picked it up by swapping heads, cam, etc. No way anyone is getting 100 horse with an intake and carb swap only, on the stock long block.
It's already been done and proven to gain no more than a ported stock intake.
As for the FPR, you can get one from summit/Jegs anywhere really. The regulator sets/"makes" the pressure, not the pump. The stock pump will work fine with a FPR setting the pressure to ~5 pounds. No problem there at all. Either way, a failed FPR won't be causing the carb to flood. It would leak itself.
This is something that I've actually DONE, so I know of what I speak. Also, I did produce objective results so I'm not talking out of my SOTP meter, here.
I re-encourage you to keep the EFI and port the crap out of it. You'll end up equal to or ahead of where a carb will put you, but retain easy starting, good running, fuel economy, etc.
As for the FPR, you can get one from summit/Jegs anywhere really. The regulator sets/"makes" the pressure, not the pump. The stock pump will work fine with a FPR setting the pressure to ~5 pounds. No problem there at all. Either way, a failed FPR won't be causing the carb to flood. It would leak itself.
This is something that I've actually DONE, so I know of what I speak. Also, I did produce objective results so I'm not talking out of my SOTP meter, here.
I re-encourage you to keep the EFI and port the crap out of it. You'll end up equal to or ahead of where a carb will put you, but retain easy starting, good running, fuel economy, etc.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; 02-06-2011 at 04:58 PM.
#30
tom, its a proven fact, why dont you check records before talking, all the top runners in nhra f,g h/ gas were running 620 hp back in the late 70's early 80's, morrison, wayne county speed shop ,tony christan etc. 288@620hp on carbs is old news
#33
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Perhaps. But at least I know what's reasonable vs. what's ridiculous.
I didn't say you couldn't get 620 hp with a carb. I said that YOU didn't build a 620/283.
I suppose it's possible to do, but using 70's stock heads (ported),among other things, it's a little hard to swallow. Your claims about picking up 125hp with a carb swap on a CFI helps to discredit you. I assure you, I have no "circuit breakers blown" or problems.
EDIT: I see ONE point of misunderstanding: I thought your 620hp claim was that YOU built a 620hp 283. I re-read and see that you RAN such an engine. Why, when 350's were available, is beyond me, but whatever. Again, what rodj said. That you ran an engine tha made 620 through a carb has zero bearing on the topic at hand. To fuelers have made over 6000hp through carbs. So if the OP puts a carb on his '84 long block, is he going to make 6000+hp? No. There is no relevance here. Your 620 horse drag car has nothing to do with the topic at hand.
I suppose it's possible to do, but using 70's stock heads (ported),among other things, it's a little hard to swallow. Your claims about picking up 125hp with a carb swap on a CFI helps to discredit you. I assure you, I have no "circuit breakers blown" or problems.
EDIT: I see ONE point of misunderstanding: I thought your 620hp claim was that YOU built a 620hp 283. I re-read and see that you RAN such an engine. Why, when 350's were available, is beyond me, but whatever. Again, what rodj said. That you ran an engine tha made 620 through a carb has zero bearing on the topic at hand. To fuelers have made over 6000hp through carbs. So if the OP puts a carb on his '84 long block, is he going to make 6000+hp? No. There is no relevance here. Your 620 horse drag car has nothing to do with the topic at hand.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; 02-06-2011 at 05:20 PM.
#35
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Good point, I sort of forgot about it...believe it or not. That's probably the best idea so far, in this thread.
#36
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2000
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Over exposure maybe?
As you are well aware,
you and I ( + many others) never discounted the Renegade as a vast improvement over a stock CFI. The argument was over the purported improvement claims by two people before intake was even available
Class racing.(weight / ci )
You build a 5000lb '66 Chevy station wagon , put a 283 in and run in Z/Super stock
As you are well aware,
you and I ( + many others) never discounted the Renegade as a vast improvement over a stock CFI. The argument was over the purported improvement claims by two people before intake was even available
Class racing.(weight / ci )
You build a 5000lb '66 Chevy station wagon , put a 283 in and run in Z/Super stock
Last edited by rodj; 02-06-2011 at 07:08 PM.