Pressurized Brake Bleeders ?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
in the old days , that was all we used, back then they were metal ***** that you preasured up with your air compressor. they work fine, just dont let it run out of fluid. a company called 'phoenix' makes one that you can use to reverse preasure bleed that cut air in the line comebacks to 'O' when I was in my shop.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 169
Likes: 4
From: I celebrate their entire catalog
I've got one and it is a great tool; makes bleeding brakes about as painless and thorough as can be.
You'll need to specify the correct reservoir cap adapter for your year car, but if your model year 95 and up, GM uses the same cap on all cars and suddenly you can bleed hundreds of types of cars.
You'll need to specify the correct reservoir cap adapter for your year car, but if your model year 95 and up, GM uses the same cap on all cars and suddenly you can bleed hundreds of types of cars.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I have the Motive bleeder but I don't put fluid in it. With fluid, the pressure forces fluid thru the hose and into the master cylinder reservoir. That effectively fills the reservoir to the very top. When you are finished bleeding, and release the pressure, there is still fluid in the hose and the cap. You have to be very careful removing the cap so that fluid doesn't spill over the top.
With just air in the unit, there is no danger of spilling although you do have to watch the fluid level in the M/C reservoir so it doesn't empty during the bleed process.
As mentioned, there are a number of caps available depending on the car. Also some of the GM caps may require two rubber washers to get them to seal properly. The caps are plastic and the tabs may break off if you don't use the correct rubber washers.
I use Speed Bleeders on my 87. They are easier to use because each bleeder has a sealant on the threads and a spring-loaded ball in the bleeder to keep fluid from coming out. Loosen the bleeder 1/4 to 1/2 turn, attach a length of hose, depress the brake pedal and release as many time as necessary to see new fluid come out, close the valve and move to the next one.
With just air in the unit, there is no danger of spilling although you do have to watch the fluid level in the M/C reservoir so it doesn't empty during the bleed process.
As mentioned, there are a number of caps available depending on the car. Also some of the GM caps may require two rubber washers to get them to seal properly. The caps are plastic and the tabs may break off if you don't use the correct rubber washers.
I use Speed Bleeders on my 87. They are easier to use because each bleeder has a sealant on the threads and a spring-loaded ball in the bleeder to keep fluid from coming out. Loosen the bleeder 1/4 to 1/2 turn, attach a length of hose, depress the brake pedal and release as many time as necessary to see new fluid come out, close the valve and move to the next one.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 6,470
Likes: 2
From: levittown pa. usa Even a bad day with my `Vette, is better than a good day at work
St. Jude Donor '10
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 246
Likes: 2
From: Elk Plain WA
St. Jude Donor '11
I've used mine only once and I experienced what C4 Cruiser mentioned. With fluid in the tank as the instructions specify you will have to bail fluid out of the Master Cylinder on completion. In my case I had replaced all the brake hose so I needed to push a good bit of fluid to clear the air in the lines. It works well.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 15
From: Jacksonville FL
I havent done my brakes yet but I bought a cheapie vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight and it worked great on my clutch hydraulics. No risk of spilled fluids providing your careful keeping the reservoir filled.
This was a lot cheaper when I bought mine, seems like it was $15. I musta caught it on sale and it was a couple of years ago.
http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-b...kit-92474.html
HF is China made stuff but it works good for a hobbyist mechanic. I wouldnt make my living with it but to use it once or twice a year its fine.
Good luck!
This was a lot cheaper when I bought mine, seems like it was $15. I musta caught it on sale and it was a couple of years ago.
http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-b...kit-92474.html
HF is China made stuff but it works good for a hobbyist mechanic. I wouldnt make my living with it but to use it once or twice a year its fine.
Good luck!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,352
Likes: 230
From: Northeast FL
I've got one and it is a great tool; makes bleeding brakes about as painless and thorough as can be.
You'll need to specify the correct reservoir cap adapter for your year car, but if your model year 95 and up, GM uses the same cap on all cars and suddenly you can bleed hundreds of types of cars.
You'll need to specify the correct reservoir cap adapter for your year car, but if your model year 95 and up, GM uses the same cap on all cars and suddenly you can bleed hundreds of types of cars.
I use mine about once a month. It works great and saves a lot of time and energy. Makes bleeding an easy one person operation.
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Thread Starter
Slingshot
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,817
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
I have the Motive bleeder but I don't put fluid in it. With fluid, the pressure forces fluid thru the hose and into the master cylinder reservoir. That effectively fills the reservoir to the very top. When you are finished bleeding, and release the pressure, there is still fluid in the hose and the cap. You have to be very careful removing the cap so that fluid doesn't spill over the top.
With just air in the unit, there is no danger of spilling although you do have to watch the fluid level in the M/C reservoir so it doesn't empty during the bleed process.
As mentioned, there are a number of caps available depending on the car. Also some of the GM caps may require two rubber washers to get them to seal properly. The caps are plastic and the tabs may break off if you don't use the correct rubber washers.
I use Speed Bleeders on my 87. They are easier to use because each bleeder has a sealant on the threads and a spring-loaded ball in the bleeder to keep fluid from coming out. Loosen the bleeder 1/4 to 1/2 turn, attach a length of hose, depress the brake pedal and release as many time as necessary to see new fluid come out, close the valve and move to the next one.
With just air in the unit, there is no danger of spilling although you do have to watch the fluid level in the M/C reservoir so it doesn't empty during the bleed process.
As mentioned, there are a number of caps available depending on the car. Also some of the GM caps may require two rubber washers to get them to seal properly. The caps are plastic and the tabs may break off if you don't use the correct rubber washers.
I use Speed Bleeders on my 87. They are easier to use because each bleeder has a sealant on the threads and a spring-loaded ball in the bleeder to keep fluid from coming out. Loosen the bleeder 1/4 to 1/2 turn, attach a length of hose, depress the brake pedal and release as many time as necessary to see new fluid come out, close the valve and move to the next one.
Can you use the Motive Bleeder to purge the hydraulic clutch as well? Also, can you tell us where you got your Speed Bleeder?
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
I believe the pressure method would work better than the vacuum method. As with the vacuum, it pulls air in past the threads of the bleeder screw. So, you don't really know if you've got all the air out as you will see bubbles in the brake fluid that got drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. Though, it might help to put some sealant on the threads of the bleeder screw that Speed Bleeders sell.
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13
I've used mine only once and I experienced what C4 Cruiser mentioned. With fluid in the tank as the instructions specify you will have to bail fluid out of the Master Cylinder on completion. In my case I had replaced all the brake hose so I needed to push a good bit of fluid to clear the air in the lines. It works well.
If you complete your flush on the system and only have a tiny bit of fluid left in your pump reservoir, you can tilt the unit on it side so the pickup tube is not submerged in fluid and perform the above which eliminates a step.
Some argue that the motive bleeder has the potential to introduce air into the fluid due to the method of pressurization (compressed air over fluid), where as a bladder system completely eliminates air from the equation. I think that for the average hobbyist use the motive bleeder cannot be beat for its convenience.
One benefit of pressurizing the master versus drawing a vacuum is the amount of pressure generated. The typical mity-vac will not draw enough suction to pull all the air out.
Last edited by Brakemotive; Feb 8, 2011 at 12:31 PM.
