Power brake booster
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Power brake booster
I'm getting ready to replace the power brake booster on my 1985. The braking is real hard and everything else seems to be OK.
I have never done this before. It seems fairly straight forward but thought checking with you guys out there would be helpful to avoid any problems.
Thanks for any advice
I have never done this before. It seems fairly straight forward but thought checking with you guys out there would be helpful to avoid any problems.
Thanks for any advice
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,835
Likes: 5
From: Avon Park FLORIDA
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
the booster is fairly easy, you have the 4 mounting nuts and pedal attach rod on the inside, outside you simply remove the 2 nuts from the master and pull master forward, then pull the booster/master rod and install in the new one and reinstall in the firewall.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 36
Likes: 2
From: las vegas
The hardest part about it is getting the nuts started on the bolts under the dash. If you have big hands you wont be able to reach the bolts, this was my problem for about 2 hours. Then I wized up and had a female with small hands reach in there and get it started for me.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,621
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
You might have to adjust the actuator rod from the booster to the master. If it's to short it will cause excess pedal travel before the brakes are applied. If too long it will lock the brakes up or cause the brakes to drag. You need about 1/16 to 1/8 inch clearance for heat expansion of the rod and associated parts. The little nut on the end of the rod screws in and out. Hold rod, adjust screw adjustment.
Jack up one front wheel and check for freedom after bolting master on after booster is installed. Might take a few tries to get it just right.
Jack up one front wheel and check for freedom after bolting master on after booster is installed. Might take a few tries to get it just right.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,050
Likes: 147
From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
The new booster should be adjusted already, but it is possible if you have dragging brakes after install, that you will have to adjust.
I used a 3 foot extension and a wiggly socket for the underdash part.
changed the booster in about 40 minutes total.
did not remove any seats for this operation.
use a very bright LED flashlight and tape it to the extension about halfway. Then just undo the nuts inside the car.
To start the nuts, make sure the taped flashlight is UNDER the extension. THe shadowing if it is on top keeps you from getting an unobstructed view of the stud coming through the firewall.
I used a 3 foot extension and a wiggly socket for the underdash part.
changed the booster in about 40 minutes total.
did not remove any seats for this operation.
use a very bright LED flashlight and tape it to the extension about halfway. Then just undo the nuts inside the car.
To start the nuts, make sure the taped flashlight is UNDER the extension. THe shadowing if it is on top keeps you from getting an unobstructed view of the stud coming through the firewall.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
From: Asheboro North Carolina
I did mine this afternoon and my brakes are now working like power brakes should work. I'm thankful that I didn't get into an emergency stop situation - would have been bad. Getting the old booster out and the new one in wasn't too bad but I had hell getting the two nuts inside started. I'm sure if I had followed the recommendation above it would have been a lot easier.
