Roter removal - any tricks?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 56
From: West Chester PA
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '25
Roter removal - any tricks?
Pulling the original front rotors off a 95. Caliper and bracket are off. Rotor is really stuck on the hub bearing flange. I had soaked it with PB Blaster last night and tried to work it off with a dead blow hammer, but it won't budge. Only thing I haven't tried is heat.
Any tricks, suggestions or guidance to steer me in right direction would be appreciated. TIA.
Any tricks, suggestions or guidance to steer me in right direction would be appreciated. TIA.
Last edited by jimmymack; Feb 23, 2011 at 04:56 PM. Reason: spelling
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 327
Likes: 0
From: edgerton WI
If you have all of the fasteners off and tried hitting with a hammer, heat would be my next step. Just be careful not to overheat the hub assembly and melt the seal or burn the grease inside of it. I would try to heat a little then hit and repeat until it pops off.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 14,680
Likes: 752
From: NEwhere Ohio
important question:
are you hitting it on the back side (engine side) or on the front side.
You should be hitting it at the top of the front side only.
Hitting it on back side will not dislodge it.
are you hitting it on the back side (engine side) or on the front side.
You should be hitting it at the top of the front side only.
Hitting it on back side will not dislodge it.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,752
Likes: 190
From: Indiana PA
First of all, put down the dead blow and get a real hammer. I have a small 3lb one for such jobs. Beat the snot out of it with that and if that does not work, try some heat. I have beat rotors off in pieces before, that is one way to do it.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 14,680
Likes: 752
From: NEwhere Ohio
except dont beat it on the wrong side !!!
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,700
Likes: 1,667
From: moraga ca
Wondering why not. I've always used a 2X4 and a 4 lb mallet on the backside.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 460
Likes: 1
From: Oliphant Ontario
If/when you do heat it, do so to the rotor only, no heat on hub, you're trying to get the rotor to expand. Agreed with comments on a real hammer, it needs a sharp ringing hit to get it to crack free from the hub.
I'll assume this is not original rotors at that age, but if they are, they may have factory speed nuts on 2 or 3 studs done at factory. They are thin hardened spring steel and can go un-noticed with rust. They are used at factory to hold rotor onto hub without wheels or wheel nuts.
I'll assume this is not original rotors at that age, but if they are, they may have factory speed nuts on 2 or 3 studs done at factory. They are thin hardened spring steel and can go un-noticed with rust. They are used at factory to hold rotor onto hub without wheels or wheel nuts.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Good luck! This sounds like the problem on my new to me 97 F150. The front wheels would not come off! I was able to kick the driver front off, but the passenger side was not moving. PBblaster, deep creep, kroil, beating the snot out of the front and back, breoke a 2 jaw puller, finallya bit of heat and beating the snot out of it got it to release from the hub.
For your rotor try beating it at 12 oclock from the front, rotate 90* repeat. after a couple of revolutions apply some heat to the rotor. Try not to heat the hub. then repeat the beatings. Then heat, then beatings. It will eventually come off. When it does take a wire wheel on a drill and some sand paper and clean the mating surfaces.
Throw a bit of anti sieze where things meet together avoiding the studs.
Good Luck!
For your rotor try beating it at 12 oclock from the front, rotate 90* repeat. after a couple of revolutions apply some heat to the rotor. Try not to heat the hub. then repeat the beatings. Then heat, then beatings. It will eventually come off. When it does take a wire wheel on a drill and some sand paper and clean the mating surfaces.
Throw a bit of anti sieze where things meet together avoiding the studs.
Good Luck!
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 951
Likes: 3
From: Placerville CA
Snce rotors can get glowing hot under hard use, it's hard to imagine that you could get TOO MUCH heat on them. There aren't many "stuck-on" problems heat can't cure. I'd cook 'em good if it was me...but (disclaimer) I'm not known for mechanical prowess.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Wailuku Hawaii
When I couldn't get my rear rotors off by hitting with a hammer, I tried using a 1" x 1" piece of wood. Wedged it in behind the rotor against something, probably the hub, and gave it a tug. The rotor came right off.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,327
Likes: 5
From: 2010 C6 Grand Sport Convertible
X2 on the air hammer. I've used that in conjunction with heat on steering knuckles\hubs and rotors with 100% success. The worst had to be my '97 Expedition which uses the same set-up as the OP's F150.
Before using the air hammer, I had a 16 lb sledge and was whacking the hell out of it until I cracked a huge chunk of the rotor off. That's a feeling of commitment..*S
Mike
Before using the air hammer, I had a 16 lb sledge and was whacking the hell out of it until I cracked a huge chunk of the rotor off. That's a feeling of commitment..*S
Mike
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 56
From: West Chester PA
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '25
Thanks for all the guidance guys. Rear ones came right off with a little wiggle, the fronts were a PITA. Used heat as suggested on them and banged with a piece of wood as buffer, they finally came off. Needless to say, put some anti-seize on for the next time. 