He may be able to make it work then but I think he still needs an early LT1 knock sensor.
92 LT1 SES Light with Code 43... Help!!!
Safety Car
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From: FL
Heel & Toe
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This is the first time it's ever thrown a code and I have had te same set up sense 1997. My one knock sensor is on the passenger side, and the only thing from a 1988 I use is the 1 wire o2 sensor it was used on many obd1 cars. I am thinking I need the 1992 knock sensor and not the 1996 knock sensor that I put in? Is there anything else that would be associated with a knock sensor code that I could have over looked?
Safety Car
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From: FL
Hope that the 92 knock sensor cures the problem. I do have some doubts based on the fact that the old one did not set a code previously. Another possibility is a wiring problem brought on by vibration/chafing due to the misfire or off road operation, that would be the next thing I would check.
Drifting
Joined: May 2013
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From: Reno Nevada
Something tells me that if it ran fine for 10+ years it is simply not the 96 vs 92. Hell, how can you even remember what you used back then? Just saying! I would diagnose it as a device, and or circuit failure.
Damn Jeep guys!
Damn Jeep guys!
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Heel & Toe
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Well put the 1992 knock in and negative same result the ohm reading on the 1996 vs te 1992 is so close it called with in the acceptable range in thee Haynes book. Visually the wire harnes looks good and is clear of chaffing it's all in a loom that protects it from my stupidity 
but j am out of options hmmm. When it starts it only takes a few seconds for the light to come on and soon as it does the electric fan comes on too, so I can't help but think those are some how linked together. Sense I have te older style black computer running it with a chip that basically has every thing deleted out of it, does it still have an internal knock sensor module? I know the fined aluminum computers have a knock sensor module inside. I am reaching now sorry if that sounds like a stab in the dark. Thanks again for your feed back
but j am out of options hmmm. When it starts it only takes a few seconds for the light to come on and soon as it does the electric fan comes on too, so I can't help but think those are some how linked together. Sense I have te older style black computer running it with a chip that basically has every thing deleted out of it, does it still have an internal knock sensor module? I know the fined aluminum computers have a knock sensor module inside. I am reaching now sorry if that sounds like a stab in the dark. Thanks again for your feed back
Safety Car
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From: FL
The fan comes on by default when many DTC's are set, so you are correct that they are connected. Do you have 5 volt supply voltage at the knock sensor with the key on?
Your early ECM does not have a replaceable knock module.
Your early ECM does not have a replaceable knock module.
Last edited by toptechx6; Jul 23, 2013 at 03:35 AM. Reason: added info
Drifting
Joined: May 2013
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From: Reno Nevada
First, the ESC (electronic spark control) unit is on the memcal, and is part of the knock circuitry.
http://chevythunder.com/199295_lt1_t...codes.htm#Code 43
The 9278 ECM is known to be the weak point in these early LT1's. I would consider sending it out to be tested, and or repaired.
http://chevythunder.com/199295_lt1_t...codes.htm#Code 43
The 9278 ECM is known to be the weak point in these early LT1's. I would consider sending it out to be tested, and or repaired.
Last edited by MrWillys; Jul 23, 2013 at 07:45 AM.
Heel & Toe
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I checked for the 5v and there was 0v on the connector that goes on the knock. I freaking checked it 5 times to be sure I was touching the contact in the center of the plug, and nothing. I guess I will finish dinner, grab some frosty treats and start opening up the loom to trace out the wire back to the puter. As for the spark control module I replaced it too. This all happened two weeks ago when I was on Petersons Ultimate Adventure 2013. And I always carry most all sensors with me invade something wacky happens like this and I put a new one in as a stab in the dark. But typically don't those either work or they don't?
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Ok my bad, my meter had a bad lead on it. I retested the knock plug I am getting 4.85 volts down there. I think that's close enough to 5volts for a jeep right? So now I am thinking about the torque on it? Or put the original gm ignition module back on and test it again.
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I am gonna change the plugs tomorrow maybe I have a bad plug do to the previously clogged injectors (I am reaching now) dumping and not dumping fuel in certain cylinders. I removed the knock and installed it lightly to meet the torque spec. Now I know I have the voltage at the knock I am not sure now.
Drifting
Joined: May 2013
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From: Reno Nevada
See here:
http://chevythunder.com/199295_lt1_t...codes.htm#Code 43
Have your ecm tested. You could program the knock sensors out, but if it's short to ground in the ecm it's only a matter of time for other cicuit issues.
but the plugs in the passenger side were a little dirty and smelled of gas. Driver side looked to be about perfect. Does anyone have any other suggestions?