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Sorry for taking so long to reply to this.
After a VERY long time I was able to clear the code...and keep it gone. We replaced all the spark plugs with E3's (and I really recommend those plugs!), had the ECM rebuilt and that had no impact on the code.
I am lucky enough to have an engineer for a neighbor and made some sensors out of resistors to put inline with the wires from the ECM to the knock sensors. We fooled the computer into thinking everything was fine. After that we hooked up each sensor one at a time. It turned out that the sensor my mechanic (or my FORMER mechanic) put in was completely wrong. I purchased two new sensors from Chevrolet (paid a little more for them, but I wanted this ordeal over) and changed out the one the mechanic put in.....and everything is fine now. As I bought two sensors, I even have a spare.
I could have run the car with the fake sensors inline with the ECM. You would just need to know the resistance of what a real sensor should be and put some resistors together to test them.
Ok here we go. After testing all the sensors and retesting. I ordered a third knock sensor this time from the dealer, checked all the voltages again cleared the puter, and fired her up and the light is off and the the engine is running with the fan off while it is warming up. So I am convinced that the dealers sensors are worth paying the extra $$ for. There was a substantial difference between auto part store sensors readings and factory. I hope my struggles help someone else out there. Sorry you all had to deal with a Jeeper but I am a Chevy performance guy at heart. thank you everyone for all the help and input you have me.
Congratulations, and I hope it's the solution to your problem. Ever get out Reno way I'll take you out in the desert, so you can find out why I'm MrWillys! http://www.scotthansen.net/jeep.html
Cfayne; I just saw your post after I posted mine up. I couldn't agree more to just pay a little extra to the dealer because what ever the difference is, is what makes the difference with these engines and probably all engines. Thank you again for all the help. You can go to Perersons 4 wheel and off road magazine online, click events then click Ultimate adventure 2013. My name is Jimmy Jack and I am the big camo stretched Jeep. Then you can see what I do with this O'l girl of mine. The jeeps name is O'l Bessy because I built her 15 years ago and she is still hangin in there with the new fancy rigs.
Thank you again for all the help.
This is the first day, I wasn't sure how to get the opening page or story but if you Facebook 4wheel and off road magazine has the story up there and are updating it with pics and stories.
Oops this is the beginning it has several days you can click on. Thanks again for helping me out. And all my friends were telling me to get rid of this engine and get an LS. All tho an extra 100-150 hp would be nice. That all cost $$. Unles you all know a simple way to get it. I know a hot cam kit/port the heads/bigger throttle body and injectors would do the trick but at that point it might be easier to sell this engine and go LS. What do you think?
MrWillys I live just outside of auburn, fordyce is 40 min from me and the rubicon is 40 min the other dorection. Actually jeep jamboree is this weekend
MrWillys I live just outside of auburn, fordyce is 40 min from me and the rubicon is 40 min the other dorection. Actually jeep jamboree is this weekend
I may know where those are, but it's been a few years since I've been there. I did go in behind Gold lake last year. I can be off pavement in less than a mile from my house, and California's Dog Valley, and Mount Peavine are 3 miles West.
Got a glass in the kitchen still says Star Trek 1981. It was Fordyce at night with Steak & Eggs when you got in, live music, and a portable dance floor. Do they still do this?
Hi folks... hoping someone can help me with a SES light and Code 43 (ESC knock sensor circuit) problem. The SES light comes on seconds after the engine is started and usually stays on constant; a Code 43 sets every time.
I have followed the Service Manual testing the knock sensors (Code 43 charts on 6E3-A-77) and couldn't trace the problem to being bad sensors. I confirmed 5 volts going to each knock sensor, and resistance on both sensors was within 3.3 and 4.5 K Ohms per the manual. Also, I confirmed 1.5 volts on both knock sensor leads when plugged in which checks. Is it possible to pass these checks but still have a bad knock sensor? The knock sensor wires look fine, and I opened up the ECM and reset the PROM, but that didn't help.
So the charts say it's a faulty knock sensor connection or faulty ECM. I bought two new knock sensors for replacements, but based on the test results, I don't think they're the problem. I've read a number of posts where people replaced the knock sensors unnecessarily.
I replaced the ECM with a Delphi remanufacture about 10 years ago, but I've only put about 6K miles on it. I can't believe the ECM would have gone bad already but who knows?
I feel like I'm at the point of having to throw parts at the problem to see if anything fixes it. I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who's had a similar problem.
Thanks!
Scott
I had the same problem check you therminal at the brown junction therm minal d2 line and all the others become loose in the plastic connector of ecm . notice the length of the pin if you see one a bit lower check it out it is loose in the computer I have a majic jack call me if your not sure there is no charge 613 762 6578
michel