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I am removing my fuel rail for polishing and powder coating and one of the two fuel line flare fittings won't break loose. I tried a 5/8 and 16mm line wrench and they want to turn on the fitting. I stopped until I come up with a fool proof tool or method to break it loose. Is there any new tool that can be suggested to break this fitting loose without rounding off the fitting?
On another note, what is the best method to cap the ends of the fuel line flare fitting so they don't leak while I do my work?
Soak the connection in PB Blaster overnight then try again. For the fuel lines I simply took a short length of rubber fuel line and attach both ends to a hard line making a loop, clamp the hose to the lines to seal it up.
I haven't found any magic tool yet to loosen a truly seized fitting - if they're seized on there and the proper line wrench won't break it loose after soaking it a while with some penetrating oil then it's time to break out the tools that will leave a mark - I've had good luck with flat nosed vice grips and clamping down hard on the end and breaking them loose with minimal damage - If I can't do it with the flat end of them then I've had to use the toothed section and that usually leaves teeth marks but it comes free and I am then able to use a wrench to loosen and tighten them back up. I usually re-assemble with anti-sieze and new o-rings (if it's not a true flare fitting but the o-ringed fitting like a lot of fuel lines). If you're worried about the looks of the fitting afterwords then take a flat file and file out the tooth marks to minimize the looks of the damage.
I haven't found any magic tool yet to loosen a truly seized fitting - if they're seized on there and the proper line wrench won't break it loose after soaking it a while with some penetrating oil then it's time to break out the tools that will leave a mark - I've had good luck with flat nosed vice grips and clamping down hard on the end and breaking them loose with minimal damage - If I can't do it with the flat end of them then I've had to use the toothed section and that usually leaves teeth marks but it comes free and I am then able to use a wrench to loosen and tighten them back up. I usually re-assemble with anti-sieze and new o-rings (if it's not a true flare fitting but the o-ringed fitting like a lot of fuel lines). If you're worried about the looks of the fitting afterwords then take a flat file and file out the tooth marks to minimize the looks of the damage.
Success
I think the blaster did the trick. I also borrowed a 5/8 line wrench from one of the tractor mechanics at work. It was pretty tight but it broke loose.