C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

New Aluminum Radiator

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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 11:50 AM
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Default New Aluminum Radiator

I installed my new radiator on Saturday. I bought it from Reliable Radiators and it is a really nice unit for the price. It did require some trimming on the rubber pads and some trimming for the drain. Minor modifications for a vast improvement. The coolant temp is about 20 degrees lower than before. I also swapped my 195 thermostat for a 180. Felpro makes a nice gasket with o-rings to keep from having to use RTV and such when changing thermostats. I also swapped my aux fan switch in the cylinder head for fan operation at lower temps. The main fan on the engine side is computer controlled to turn on with the AC or at 229 degrees. I left the settings for it as is. The aux fan (in front of radiator) is controlled by a thermal temperature switch in the left side cylinder head. It turns the aux fan on at something like 240 which is almost never. I swapped it for a switch from Napa that would supposedly kick on at 220, but that didn't happen. I bought the one from Mid America that would turn the fan on at 200. It should be here later this week. I feel like this setup is a good cooling upgrade for the '84-'89 cars. With this radiator, thermostat, and fan switch, this car should be able to handle traffic this summer. The new radiator comes with a new low coolant sensor installed as well as a new radiator cap. Toss the cap as the ears on it are too big and will hit the upper housing as it is tightened. This results in a panic during the coolant fill procedure and a subsequent green rainbow of a gusher. I'm very happy with the outcome and will be even happier when my new switch arrives.





http://www.reliableradiator.com/serv...luminum/Detail
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 12:01 PM
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What pressure radiator cap are you using?

Is it new? How much for the rad?

My suggestion is to keep the 195 t-stat.

But it's your car.......

Last edited by JrRifleCoach; Apr 18, 2011 at 12:20 PM.
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 12:08 PM
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I had a 195 in the car but could not find a good reason to keep it. Could you elaborate on the benefits? I would certainly switch it back for a good reason.
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 12:14 PM
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I also replaced my overflow tank hose. One of the routing clamps was not secured and I mounted it on the forward bolt hole of the tank. Now my headlight won't roll over on that side without lifting the hood. Should this clamp be on the rear hole of the tank? Could someone check theirs and let me know or post a picture of this area? Thanks.
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 12:43 PM
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I switched to a Dewitts and kept the 195. My results are that the engine will come up to temp, and easily hold that temp no matter how the car is driven.

The OEM rad could not keep up with the heat and many would switch to a lower value t-stat thinking this would help. But it doesn't since the value of the t-stat is only the temp it opens.
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 01:26 PM
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I agree that just changing the stat really won't help alot. I'm trying to keep my aux fan from coming on too much. With it kicking on at 200, I figured that the 180 would keep the temps where they needed to be. It is running in the 190-195 range while moving. Once I get the fan switch, this should be a really good combination. Not sure what the pressure rating on my cap is. It is the lever type. The radiator was around $210 plus shipping. I think that the price recently went up to $240 or so.

http://www.reliableradiator.com/serv...luminum/Detail
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 02:32 PM
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Stock size radiator in these cars are a joke anything is an upgrade.
I mean come on look at that puny thing, on a bottom feeder car? Designed to run warm? Not much room for error there.
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Siveck
I also replaced my overflow tank hose. One of the routing clamps was not secured and I mounted it on the forward bolt hole of the tank. Now my headlight won't roll over on that side without lifting the hood. Should this clamp be on the rear hole of the tank? Could someone check theirs and let me know or post a picture of this area? Thanks.
I moved the clamp to the rear hole of the tank and now the headlight functions properly again. The headlight was hitting the hose.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 10:18 AM
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86 auto, I just about give up on trying to keep this thing from getting hot. I think I'm going to put some kind of hood scoop to give he engine some cool air. Things I have tried. The engine was just rebuilt so they boiled the block. I replaced the radiator with the huge aluminium. I got this idea to buy two fans. I had to make it fit. I took the old fan and placed it front of the a/c core to blow in and the two fans suck from inside. I replaced therms. and the on off switchs. I replaced the pump with a high flow elelbrock. When it gets like 90 in traffic The temp starts to go up 240 to 260. I just said uncle and I give up. Good thing I live in Milwaukee Wis. we don't get to many hot days.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 03:26 PM
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Sunnfish

Buy one of these rads! IT WILL MAKE A DIFFERENCE!!!!
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