C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Security light/won't start

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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 02:29 AM
  #1  
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Default Security light/won't start

I have a 1993 c4 automatic trans. after driving around town about 15-20 min the security light flashes and the service ASR light comes on and when I cut the car off it will not start back up, it will turn strong but won't crank. I have to wait for about 15 min and it will start like nothing happen. If I try to start it before the 15 min it will at like it's going to start but seem like it's not getting a continous gas flow and cut off. It takes longer for the lights to come if driving on the HWY. Help please:
Old Apr 19, 2011 | 08:16 AM
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Intermittents are difficult to track down. You need to have a few tools with you the next time it dies. Check for spark and fuel pressure to narrow the problem area. The security light suggests a VATS problem. However I thought VATS only affected a car while cranking not while already running. Here is a little information about how VATS works, that may give you some ideas. I'm not sure why your ASR light is coming on. Maybe someone on the forum has seen these symptoms before.

http://vats.likeabigdog.com/

http://home.hiwaay.net/~davida1/passkey.htm

Try to pinpoint the problem area before throwing parts at it. A factory shop manual is almost a necessity for solving these kinds of issues. Good luck.

Dave T.
Old Apr 19, 2011 | 02:09 PM
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Next time it won't start, try smacking the ECU (box mounter over the master cylinder area) with the palm of your hand. Mine did the same thing a couple of years ago. At first, a smack would induce a start. Replaced the ECU to resolve the problem.

Joe
Old Apr 19, 2011 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ccford
Next time it won't start, try smacking the ECU (box mounter over the master cylinder area) with the palm of your hand. Mine did the same thing a couple of years ago. At first, a smack would induce a start. Replaced the ECU to resolve the problem.

Joe
What your referring to actually is the ECM. They definitely do produce some strange symptoms.

Aside from hitting it, others have put ice pacts on the ECM to get a feeling if temperature affects it. The ECM can play tricks on you flashing lights with false indications. I would see if I could read the codes when the problem is happening. You're not going to fix this with a code but what you're looking for is to see if your can communicate with it, could be a clue.

As suggested you have to make some measurements while problem is occurring. Find out if there is a healthy spark, good fuel pressure and if there are injector pulses (drive to the injectors). Without some real data you will be guessing all day and won't be able to eliminate working systems.

** Just wanted to add if a true VATS event occured, the engine would not turn over (start relay not energised). It would also disable FEDS and there would not be any drive to the injectors. If there was a pass key probelm, there may be a code set for it (51).

Last edited by pcolt94; Apr 19, 2011 at 08:55 PM.
Old Apr 20, 2011 | 07:00 AM
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I think I would start with pulling the ecu connectors and spray them all down along with ecu pins with some contact cleaner checking for deformed contacts. If it does it on the way home as soon as you get home see if the ecu seems very hot. I have a 91 so no ASR but there might be a clue there with that light on at the same time. Makes me think there is a problem with various modules not communicating with each other to be honest. So it might be worth the effort to do the contact cleaning job on the VATS module and ABS assuming that is what contrls the ASR though I have no idea about that. It just seems logical in that the wheel speeds go there.
Dave
Old Dec 21, 2012 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ccford
Next time it won't start, try smacking the ECU (box mounter over the master cylinder area) with the palm of your hand. Mine did the same thing a couple of years ago. At first, a smack would induce a start. Replaced the ECU to resolve the problem.

Joe
ECM/PCM should be "tapped using only fingertips on one hand and only on edge, not center of case and only on top side. The test itself may cause the ECM/PCM to fail.

source: GM Service Bulletin 91-384-6E

If U want to smack anything smack that author who provided bad info.
I see he ended up replacing it. Don't let it happen to you.

Sorry for the 45 day rule infringement but this needed to be corrected for any reader in the search mode. I'll request a lock now.

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