I am wondering if I adjusted my valves right

I tried to adjust my valves according to the FSM and the car would not start. The next day I reset the valves again but used 3/4 turn instead of the full turn the FSM said to add after taking the lash out. Again it would not start unless I gave it full throtle then it sounded like it was hitting on four cylinders and would not Idle. So I backed all of them off a quarter turn at a time (a total of one and one quarter turns) untill I could start the engine and it would idle. I put rags over the rocker arms to try to contain the oil. I then tightened them until I could not hear them tappiing any more. One at a time I losened the valve untill it started taping then I would tighten it again until it stopped. I did not add any turns after they stopped tapping.

It seems to be idling fine now I have not been able to take it out for a road test yet.

Should I leave the valves alone or add some turns to the adjustment?

 

What was the purpose of getting involved with the valve-train in the first place? Thats what roller hydraulic lifters do so very well...is absorb the slack. The tic that people hear is injectors...not valves. Rollers don;t tic as much as they rattle or slap. Usually if you can hear a roller lifter make noise it needs to be replaced.

If it was for some repair, then you have to proceed at this point with great caution...if they were so tight that the engine would not fire, its entirely possible that there are now bent pushrods. When that cam rolls around the the lobe hits the lifter, it pushes against the push rod to force the rocker to move and open the valve. This is a pretty precise amount of travel, and if the valve is already partially open, then it cannot open any more than it could last week...so the difference either gets absorbed by the lifters plunger,(if it has that much) or by bending a pushrod.

here's what I'd do...I'm sure other guys will also have some ideas..
I'd warm the engine for a minute or so and pull the valve cover. Then go to each valve and set it at TDC and spin the push rod with your fingers. They should spin freely but not loosely, with a slight drag when warm. If they do not spin they are too tight or may be bent. Back off a turn and see if it spins. You can usually see a bent rod this way. Its a pain, but its better than pounding a valve into a piston..
new push rods are cheap, so pick up a few to replace ANY that you doubt.

These clearences are so tight that a headgasket can make the difference in valves hitting things or not.

 

thats a nice old school way to adjust them, did it that way for years....and years. dont think you'll have any issues. you could go back in and give them all 1/2 more turn each.

 

BTW they make clips for the rocker arms to keep it from squirting all over the place, still a bit messy, but not as much.

 

I have set the valves in a running engine with those clip on steel rocker arm clips.

Works OK to very good results.

Not the most accurate way of setting valves unless you have some practice prior.

Can be messy like Oldalaskaman said.

Be sure not to Rev up the engine over idle with those rocker arm pushrod oil spurt hole clips in place.

They will go flying off at high velocity and you will get a bath in hot engine oil.

I don't think I have use my Snap On rocker arm oil deflector clips in maybe 10 years now or longer.

I have used the other method(s) setting engine valves with the engine not running and 100% accurate valve settings every time.

 

leesvet is correct but you are past that point with your smooth idle. Crank each down 1/2 turn and you are golden. The old guy(goodness I love to call someone that) is correct about the clips. I set a F-Body on fire with a set, trashed them immediately after the fire was out.

 

A half turn it is. I don't know what happened the when I tried to set them by the book. Maybe my fingers are stronger than I think. I set the motor TDC #1 piston. Then I would tighten the correct valves until I could not spin the push rod. Turn the motor 360 (TDC #6 cylinder) then adjust the rest of them until I could not turn the pushrod. Then I gave them all a 3/4 turn. I would prefer not to smoke out my garage while adjusting my valves. I'm surprised that my neighbors did not call the fire department or department of ecology.: *****:

I still get a few small smoke clouds when I start her up.

 

Next time you do the adjustment with the motor off, instead of spinning the pushrods to find 0 lash, move the pushrod up and down until 0 lash is felt, then go down the 1/2 or 3/4 turn that you want..This method is more accurate because spinning can be very subjective from person to person, up and down can only be done one way.....WW

 

This will work--depending on who you talk to 1/4 turn to full turn--back off till you hear a tick/tap---then tighten 1/4 turn at a time letting the idle smooth back out between turns--I usually go 1/2 turn-it works well.

There are many threads/posts right here on the CF about people trying to set valve lash using the FSM--Comp or Crane cams instructions and they have problems. Many people just don't have the "feel"--period. It's hard to screw up adjusting the valves while running unless you're deaf and can't hear the free play.

On my job adjusting the valves on OHV engines for example, yes I use the service manual with the engine off--however on any SBC or BBC I've owned or wrenched on I adjust while running and yes even on my 70 Z-28 with solid lifters using a feeler gauge--IMO on hydraulics it's darn near fool proof even if it is a little messy That's JMO

 

What WW7 said. You over did the initial lash, a very common mistake that is easy to make. I am ultra old school, I adjust mine as you did for start up then adjust them running after run in. I captured an old valve cover, cut the top out then pop riveted in a splash shield to keep everything clean doing my final adjustments.

 

I've got a set of steel crate motor valve covers that I keep telling myself I'm gonna modify to do that...

Hopefully one day I'll actually get around to it. That is the right way to do this...

 

years ago they made two piece covers, with a gasket for the top plate so you could pull only the top off without removing the complete cover, made it quick and kept most of the oil where it belonged, havent seen them in awhile. just did a search, they're making them now and calling them a 'new invention' go figure

 

Right now I am refinishing my wheels. When I finish that project I will get back to the valves. I have been starting the car and letting it idle, mainly I like hearing it run, but I also want the computer to adjust itself to the new injectors, new oxygen sensor and ported intake. It seems like it is still searching because the rpms will go up and down until the engine warms up. Lately it seems like I am hearing some valves starting to tap again. When I get back to the valves I will look to see if any valves are adjusted differently than others which might reveal a bent a pushrod. I am still planning to make the rally this Saturday.

 

the 1/2 turn puts the piston of the lifter down into the sweet spot of the lifter barrell, your light tapping is probably due to the piston being at the top of the lifter and not getting any benifit from the hydraulic action of the lifter piston in the lifter barrel. By leaving it 'loose' you risk bouncing the head of the valve 'exhaust or intake' on the seat. worst case, you break a head off and destroy your engine. the engine doesnt have to be running to get that 1/2 turn, but you need to get it. your idle may clear up also. that's bout as technical as I get.

 

I ran out of paint for my wheels so I got back into the valves today. I did find that a few of the valves still had some lash so I used WW7's advise and tightened them until I could feel no lash and then Oldalaskaman's advise and gave all of them another 1/2 turn. The motor sounds great now.

The idle is still has a slight surge to it but hopefuly it will level out when I get it out on the road and the computer has a chance to set itself. When I take the valve covers off I disconnect the battery because the driver side valve cover is close to the alternator.

Thank you everybody for your help.

It's looking good for the rally this weekend.
Since I can now wait until I need a new clutch to tackle changing the DM flywheel. That is going to be a fun job.

I plan to do some searching on that subject.

 

The tic that people hear is injectors...not valves. Rollers don;t tic as much as they rattle or slap. Usually if you can hear a roller lifter make noise it needs to be replaced.

****Thanks, you just kept me from thinking I had a ticking valve.

 

The computer is not going to "set itself" like so many say.

If something is off, different injector, vacuum leak, reset iac/tps etc then those need to be adressed then it will run like it should.

Use some preload on those lifters so the plunger isnt banging against the clip trying to break it.

If youre unsure do one cyl at a time, works for me. FOr some reason the FSM method always left me with noisy lifters no matter what, others may have had good results

 

I did this for my build up and its working fine.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ktvIQgGhz18

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7ci1LLOCj0