C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Install Question on ported heads/1.7RR

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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 02:26 PM
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Default Install Question on ported heads/1.7RR

1994 LT1/ZF6

I bought a set of ported heads/intake, springs, 1.7 roller rockers, pushrods, guideplates, etc. The plan is that I will install on my stock cam/bottom end LT1. This setup will satisfy me for some time until I decide to do a full rebuild/cam.

I don’t think the 1.7RRs will clear the factory valve covers. So far, the only covers I can seem to find that are both tall and designed for the Vette with clearance for the alternator are the Canton aluminum set at around $200. Are there other options?

Is there a gasket set available that would essentially include all gaskets from the heads up?

Last question for now, the ported intake that I have has egr blockoff plates installed. I like the idea of a clean intake but the egr doesn’t seem to have negatively impacted anything either. The car needs to pass emissions. Thoughts on leaving EGR vs removing? If removed I would also want to disable in the pcm as well.
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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 02:52 PM
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The stock valve covers will work. But, you'll have to remove the oil drip tabs.
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 08:00 AM
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I have 1.6RR on there now and I had to remove the drip tabs to clear them. So hopefullly, the 1.7s will clear as well. I did a google search before posting and it seems some reported they cleared and others that they did not.

Think I am going to keep the egr functional, I don't see a real reason not to. Sure the intake gets a bit dirty but I don't think that has any impact on performance or longevity.

Believe all I need to get is a gasket set and then I'll have everything I need to get the job done. But of course time is the issue.
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Old May 2, 2011 | 07:47 AM
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I took apart and cleaned the heads that will be going on the motor.

I'm going to be replacing the valve stem seals and I also have a set of 1.255 Hi-perform Lunati valve springs that will go on. This will be a 1.7rr/stock cam.

As I disassembled, I noticed that the springs on the intake valves had shims under the spring seats. There were no shims on the exhaust valves. Do I need to reuse these shims? I'm assuming that I do not and that the installer at the time put them in for a little more spring compression on the intake valves.

I have new guidplates and 7/16 rocker studs. The old studs had some kind of sealant on the threads (into the head). Why? Is it necessary?
Does anyone happen to know the torque spec for the rocker stud?
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Old May 2, 2011 | 07:59 AM
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Springs have a spec for installed hight. Thats why the shims were there. The new spring should have come with a spec sheet with that number. The shims are needed. If you are not going to be assembling heads a lot just have a machine shop install the valves. If you plan on doing it often you can buy the measuring tools and do it yourself. Its not real hard.
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Old May 2, 2011 | 09:03 AM
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Makes sense. I didn't even open the box for the new springs yet so there very well may be a spec sheet.
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Old May 2, 2011 | 04:02 PM
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Look at the ceiling of the intake ports. If you can see rocker stud threads you will need to use sealant on the rocker studs.
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Old May 5, 2011 | 04:27 PM
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I have 1.6RR on there now and I had to remove the drip tabs to clear them. So hopefullly, the 1.7s will clear as well.
If they're the same brand of rocker the 1.60 ratio is the same physical size as the 1.70 ratio. The difference is the pushrod cup is drilled a little closer to the center (the fulcrum) of the rocker to increase the ratio. Otherwise the rockers are identical.

Rick - '92 LT1
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Old May 5, 2011 | 04:34 PM
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I noticed that the springs on the intake valves had shims under the spring seats. There were no shims on the exhaust valves. Do I need to reuse these shims?
Ask around to a qualified machinist/head porter. I would never run a steel spring against an aluminum head without something to prevent gouging. You could use a thin shim or a spring cup and it wouldn't adversely affect the seat pressure or coil bind point.

I'm not sure if all factory heads do this but I'd make sure I took the preventive measure.

Rick - '92 LT1
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Old May 6, 2011 | 10:07 AM
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It has steel cups on the bottom. Some of the valves also had shims beneath the cups.
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Old May 6, 2011 | 11:21 AM
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Be sure to reuse the cups. You'll have to do some measuring to determine if - and which - shims you'll need. Check back to JackDidley's post above about the installed height.

Do I need to reuse these shims? I'm assuming that I do not and that the installer at the time put them in for a little more spring compression on the intake valves.
The installed height spec is there to set the valve seat pressure of the spring. To little and the valve "bounces" off the seat while closing. Too much shim and you could get into coil bind at max lift.

The best way to measure is with a spring pressure scale, but most guys don't have access to them. Checking installed height with good springs will get you really close.

Rick - '92 LT1
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