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Washers are a good idea on any head but they are especially important on aluminum heads. What brand bolts did you buy? If they were ARP they would have the washers. If you bought an off brand maybe they are too long. If you still have the old bolts, compare them for length to the new bolts. Whatever brand they are the same company should make the proper washer for their bolts. I wouldn't even consider putting aluminum heads on an engine without washers on the bolts.
I have personally ran into a dirty bolt hole causing a problem, the torque wrench says the torque is proper but I could still spin the washer on the bolt. I've been wrong many times and may be again but I am sticking to the false reading theory. One other thing, there is nothing wrong with Fel-Pro gaskets I use nothing but and have never had a failure. What brand gasket set did you buy? Also, is there any chance you had some wiring or something pinched between the head & block?
Last edited by Midnight 85; May 7, 2011 at 12:32 AM.
Re-read PeteK's post just above your last one. The gasket he mentions is the very same gasket I have used on all my race engines and is what is presently on my Vette engine which is a 383 with 11:1 compression. The gasket you listed is overkill but if spending the extra $$$ makes you feel better then go for it.
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Originally Posted by Midnight 85
What brand bolts did you buy? If they were ARP they would have the washers. If you bought an off brand maybe they are too long. If you still have the old bolts, compare them for length to the new bolts. Whatever brand they are the same company should make the proper washer for their bolts. I wouldn't even consider putting aluminum heads on an engine without washers on the bolts.
I have personally ran into a dirty bolt hole causing a problem, the torque wrench says the torque is proper but I could still spin the washer on the bolt. I've been wrong many times and may be again but I am sticking to the false reading theory.
Unless you really prepped the old bolt holes well, I gotta lean toward this explanation too. I assume those are the new Trickflow heads, right? Kinda hard to believe they're screwed up. So, unless the block is warped, you gotta think the bolt hole(s) have an issue. If you have a micrometer that will spread far enough, maybe you could check the block-to-bolthead distance when the bolts feel like they're tightening up? Make sure one (or more) isn't tightening up before you pass the head thickness at that hole.
Check Star Performance (Lenexa) for performance parts (including most head gaskets). Noland Cylinder Head Service if you need the heads double-checked.
I agree with the previous posters, its been my experiance that you use a dry OE gasket, or you should've took the heads and got them at least surfaced. the money you spend for the fancy gaskets would have been better spent getting the surfaces right.
For awhile, 1010's had a bad rep. Failed gaskets just like you're getting. But I'm pretty sure most (if not all) of the failures were on motors where the block had been decked at least .020"-.030". This was 2-3yrs ago IIRC.
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Originally Posted by l98tpi
Get the OEM head gasket sets from the dealer or GM Performance Parts. When I rebuilt mine over the winter, I was advised by a reputable builder to use the OEM gaskets.
But the OE gasket is kinda thick [for the factory deck height]. Unless his block has been decked, it may not be the best advise in this case. Consider the Victor Reinz or TPIS head gaskets designed to reduce the quench space. Seems like they're around .025" thick IIRC.
Some even like that .015" shim. Theoretically correct for acheiving .040" quench but seems awfully thin. Checking to see how far you're down in the hole would be worthwhile.
I aways use the proper headbolt washers on alum. heads, and also coat both sides of the washer with ARP thread lube, and the bolt threads with sealant.
We used parts cleaner to clean out every hole, so thats why I am hesitant to think there was still crud in there.....although very much a possibility. I will peek at the block next week and look over the bolts to see what they are. I guess we will go from there.
on another note.....so it seems most of you agree that the regular cheap gasket should have been fine???
Parts cleaner will NOT begin to clean the threads, use a thread chaser.
As far as what gaskets to use, you are going to get many "opinions" and they all may be right but I have used the plain Fel-Pro blue head gaskets in my 11:1 383, my 12.5:1 350 in my old drag Vega, my 13:1 800+ horse Crower injected 454 in my Chevelle and two other engines for friends that had 6:71 blowers on them.
Clean the threads, check block & heads for flatness, get whatever gaskets you want & bolt it together.
How'd you get the block that clean? I'd love to use scotch-brite pads but I am very concerned with metal dust in the cylinders.
Thanks,
Lucky Kid
This is actually a very easy and simple process:
I completely drain the block...so it can be blown out later! I carefully wipe all surface's with an Alcohol soaked rag to remove oils and antifreeze. And then, Very, Very Carfully (Razor blade) remove carbon build up from the pistons. I pack the cylinders with rags, and cover the deck surface's I'm not cleaning at the time.