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Thought I would seek advice before taking the motor apart. Before work done motor temps were at 175-180 driving(180 stat). Now motor temps are 190-205 driving at 40 degrees ambient air temp. installed new stat and verified it's opening full before install. Motor work done was all top end gaskets(all fel pro), rolller rockers, port intake and plenum. Timing is set at 8 degrees, advance looks good with timing light. The only thing that makes sense would be low water flow. The water pump pulls the rad level down quick when reving the engine, pump is only one year old, a flow cooler pump from Summit. Radiator looks clean inside and out. I'm hoping I had a brain fart and put one of the intake gaskets on wrong, but both gaskets have the "this side up" facing the intake. Sorry about the long post, just fishing for ideas before I start taking it back apart.
With the new thermostat, did you verify that it starts to open around 180? Possibly wrong packaging or a bad thermostat with a later opening temperature.
Make sure the stat is opening and that you have fully packed the cooling system. Sometimes it takes a couple try's to get the air out.
I don't think you have any major problems just check to be sure on your coolent level. Fill the system slightly hot and with engine running around 2K RPM's so the pump is pulling water through system.
Last edited by floridamale; May 6, 2011 at 02:47 PM.
I know you tested but sounds like you have a 190 in there. Did you ask for a 180 when you bought it or just the stat for the car if you said I need a stat for a 87 vette they are going to hand you a 190.
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Originally Posted by kawchop
...words... The water pump pulls the rad level down quick when reving the engine, pump is only one year old, a flow cooler pump from Summit. ...words...
This makes me think there is some air in the system. With the system properly filled, the fluid level should be at the top of the radiator with the engine revved, not sucking down.
From an old thread:
Originally Posted by Pete K
Jack the front of the car as high as you can safely get it. Then run till thermostat opens , with the rad cap off, and rev to 2k rpms. Coolant level will drop. Pour in as much coolant as possible with the revs up and cap it. Let it cool and keep topping off the overflow as needed.
I had the same temp problem with the old 180 I bought last year from summit. I replaced it with a mr gasket #4364 180 balanced stat. Both the old and new stat cycled the same during the test. The old stat held my temps around 180 all last year. Now the engine is running warm with either stat.
Radiator is properly packed. I'm still leaning towards flow restriction. If both intake gaskets are showing "this side up" and I have flow through the rad with the stat open the gaskets should be installed right. Has anyone ever seen intake gaskets stamped wrong or should I just pull the intake to be sure.
I can't imagine you got the intake gaskets on wrong, I would think that you would have trouble reassembling, and a major vacuum leak.
For the hell of it I went to autozones web site and down loaded a picture of intake gaskets for a 1988 L98, not knowing what year you have I took a stab at it. The 88's gaskets are "punched" off center, this makes it very Difficult to improperly install.
Was your ignition timing 8deg before you started the work ?
Could the porting work have caused an increase in temp ?
Could there be blockage in front of the radiator? If there is no heat exchange, it can boil over with 10 degree ambient temps...fans pull air, radiator uses that to trade heat away lowering the temp going back in. A 180 stat would likely give an operating temp of just under that, IF there were good airflow with 40* ambient. Another possibility is the dash/display temp sensor...it can be reading wrong. Check the plug and connection.
A wide temp differential between operating and ambient just makes it cool faster, or slower to heat up.
My bad, 87 coupe. The gasket set is the same one I have. The upper rad hose doesn't build any pressure until the temps get near operating temp. I diaganosed my #7 head gasket issue last year by backing off all16 rocker arms and using a sprark plug adapter to put air pressure in each cylinder and watching the coolant level. I pretty sure I used fel pro 1034 head gaskets as they were recommened by guys here. I'm gonna pressure test each cylinder tomm. before I take anything apart. The heads were machined .006 and I cleaned the blocked and checked the deck and it was flat. I'll post any findings.
Pressure checked each cylinder with rockers backed off and 100 PSI with a spark plug adapter fitting, no rise on rad coolant level on any cylinder. Gonna try to pull the intake tomm and see what I can find.
I wouldn't worry about the problem your having.You might just be chasing your tail.You have increased your performance on your engine,so a slight increase in coolant temps on your stock cooling system may be normal.If it was my car I wouldn't worry.Check to see what temps it idles at & when the cooling fan(s) come on the temp goes back down.Replace your radiator cap if old & anytime you have overheating issues(& don't know when last replaced).I don't think you have ANYTHING wrong if fans come on & engine cools back down.More perf with a untouched stock cooling system would not surpise me if coolant temps were alittle higher than before.Do above test & if it tests ok,leave it alone.That is my Professional opinion
1700 rpm in OD at 70 mph, 37 degree outside air temp, last year the motor would hover in the mid to high 170's, now it's running around 200. At 90 degree air temp, it seems like a recipie for disaster. As far as performance goes, I believe roller rockers reduce friction which should translate to less heat. As far as performance enhancements goes,I only did the rocker arms, a port match and polish job on the intake, plenum and heads. I did have the heads decked .006 to ensure a flat surface, But I don't see how that could be an issue. Could a exhaust restriction cause this type of problem? I had shop rags stuffed in both sides of the exhaust to keep crap out during the engine cleaning. It would not surprise me in my giddy excitement to get my motor back together that I could brain fart and leave a rag in.
Could a exhaust restriction cause this type of problem? I had shop rags stuffed in both sides of the exhaust to keep crap out during the engine cleaning. It would not surprise me in my giddy excitement to get my motor back together that I could brain fart and leave a rag in.
Yes, restricted exhaust will cause an increase in engine temps. I've seen this happen with restricted "Cats"
You can test for this condition, but I don't rember how, I believe there is a Manifold pressure response time test, and some other test's that can be done.
1700 rpm in OD at 70 mph, 37 degree outside air temp, last year the motor would hover in the mid to high 170's, now it's running around 200. At 90 degree air temp, it seems like a recipie for disaster. As far as performance goes, I believe roller rockers reduce friction which should translate to less heat. As far as performance enhancements goes,I only did the rocker arms, a port match and polish job on the intake, plenum and heads. I did have the heads decked .006 to ensure a flat surface, But I don't see how that could be an issue. Could a exhaust restriction cause this type of problem? I had shop rags stuffed in both sides of the exhaust to keep crap out during the engine cleaning. It would not surprise me in my giddy excitement to get my motor back together that I could brain fart and leave a rag in.
My vette sometimes runs at 205 while on the highway,even in cool temps outside.A restriction in the exhaust can definately cause the vehicle to run hot or even overheat.Does the fans come on & the engine cool back down?What temps does it cool down to if so?If you left rags in the headers or near the engine they may just burn-up completely or may completely clog your exhaust.Again,don't jump the gun.Your engine is still running cool even if its running at 215 degrees.My engine gets up to 238 degrees in the summer while in traffic & its completely normal.I don;t like it running that hot & would have it run around 215 degrees or alittle above the boiling point of water.I wouldn't want my vehicle running too cool.Don't do anything please & please post above results
Your cooling fan(s) don't turn on till 218 degrees so even at 200 degrees its still far from running hot.Make sure you bled the air completely out of the cooling system & replace radiator cap if questionable or old.
Last edited by 94vettelover2; May 9, 2011 at 09:58 PM.
I have the 200 degree thermo switch installed on it to match the 180 stat, and idling in the garage it controls temp as it should. The higher temp doesn't appear until I'm driving and it warms up rather quickly. I think I'm going to pull the exh manifolds and snake them to the end of the y-pipe to check for obstructions. I have no cats and both mufflers are exhausting so if anything is in there it should be before the end of the y-pipe. After that, I'm putting it back together and will put some miles on it to see what happens.
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