Ignition coil arc spots
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 296
Likes: 1
From: Tipp City Ohio
Ignition coil arc spots
Trying to diagnose why my 88 convertible keeps falling on its face after it gets warmed up. Starting and idling is great, but once I drive it, get it to operating temp and in gear, it bogs out at 2500 RPMs.
I've checked the fuel pressure and get 41 at ignition on, 37 started. Ohm checked the injectors cold (16.3ohms) and hot (16.9ohms).
Changed out the fuel pump relay. That got rid of the one code I was getting intermittently, code 54, low fuel voltage. Hasn't returned since.
Out of frustration, I have began swapping out routine parts. First up, I changed out the distributor cap and rotor. When I was changing it out, noticed the ignition coil had some real serious arc spots on the outer side of magnet. I mean pea size (1/4" diam) holes on the top edge, three in total and they would line up with the spark towers.
I ohm checked it and it seemed to be ok, according to the manual but wondering now if that is the cause of my continuing problem with the engine bogging out after it warms up. Given how much they cost ($18), I figure I should just replace it but I'm getting tired of just throwing parts at it in hopes it magically fixes my problem. My bank account can't handle much more of this.
Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks gang!
I've checked the fuel pressure and get 41 at ignition on, 37 started. Ohm checked the injectors cold (16.3ohms) and hot (16.9ohms).
Changed out the fuel pump relay. That got rid of the one code I was getting intermittently, code 54, low fuel voltage. Hasn't returned since.
Out of frustration, I have began swapping out routine parts. First up, I changed out the distributor cap and rotor. When I was changing it out, noticed the ignition coil had some real serious arc spots on the outer side of magnet. I mean pea size (1/4" diam) holes on the top edge, three in total and they would line up with the spark towers.
I ohm checked it and it seemed to be ok, according to the manual but wondering now if that is the cause of my continuing problem with the engine bogging out after it warms up. Given how much they cost ($18), I figure I should just replace it but I'm getting tired of just throwing parts at it in hopes it magically fixes my problem. My bank account can't handle much more of this.
Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks gang!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 5
Trying to diagnose why my 88 convertible keeps falling on its face after it gets warmed up. Starting and idling is great, but once I drive it, get it to operating temp and in gear, it bogs out at 2500 RPMs.
I've checked the fuel pressure and get 41 at ignition on, 37 started. Ohm checked the injectors cold (16.3ohms) and hot (16.9ohms).
Changed out the fuel pump relay. That got rid of the one code I was getting intermittently, code 54, low fuel voltage. Hasn't returned since.
Out of frustration, I have began swapping out routine parts. First up, I changed out the distributor cap and rotor. When I was changing it out, noticed the ignition coil had some real serious arc spots on the outer side of magnet. I mean pea size (1/4" diam) holes on the top edge, three in total and they would line up with the spark towers.
I ohm checked it and it seemed to be ok, according to the manual but wondering now if that is the cause of my continuing problem with the engine bogging out after it warms up. Given how much they cost ($18), I figure I should just replace it but I'm getting tired of just throwing parts at it in hopes it magically fixes my problem. My bank account can't handle much more of this.
Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks gang!
I've checked the fuel pressure and get 41 at ignition on, 37 started. Ohm checked the injectors cold (16.3ohms) and hot (16.9ohms).
Changed out the fuel pump relay. That got rid of the one code I was getting intermittently, code 54, low fuel voltage. Hasn't returned since.
Out of frustration, I have began swapping out routine parts. First up, I changed out the distributor cap and rotor. When I was changing it out, noticed the ignition coil had some real serious arc spots on the outer side of magnet. I mean pea size (1/4" diam) holes on the top edge, three in total and they would line up with the spark towers.
I ohm checked it and it seemed to be ok, according to the manual but wondering now if that is the cause of my continuing problem with the engine bogging out after it warms up. Given how much they cost ($18), I figure I should just replace it but I'm getting tired of just throwing parts at it in hopes it magically fixes my problem. My bank account can't handle much more of this.
Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks gang!
The secondary ignition winding insulation has failed.
Replace the ignition coil with a new center carbon brush electrode.
If there black spots on the inside of the distributor cap,
replace it too.
Brian
