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Probably not what you want to hear, but you should pull the motor. I'd check the rod and main bearings also. Damage to cam bearings is unusual unless it happened during installation or there was an oil pressure problem.
Ya that was I was thinking And a 383 Stoker kit only $700.00 On E-Bay Hint Hint.
New bearings crank rods.
But I dont want to buy anouther set of Injectors I like to use my 24s And will my cam I just ordered be to small for a 383 I am also in CA and have to play the smog game.
Lunati 60101 RPM Range 1000 to 5500 Lope sep 112 Lift .484 Ex .496 Duration 213/219@.050 Adertised 256/262.
If so I need to sent back as soon as it gets here.
Oh ya I figuring with flat top pistons and my 62cc heads I should be at 10.5 to 1 Ish you think that will be to much for a street motor on pump gas the heads are aluminum.
Originally Posted by Paul Ruggeri
Probably not what you want to hear, but you should pull the motor. I'd check the rod and main bearings also. Damage to cam bearings is unusual unless it happened during installation or there was an oil pressure problem.
I would definitely go bigger on the cam. My car has a LT4 Hotcam, 218/228, .525/.525 and passes smog no problem. Be sure your springs can handle that kind of lift. 10.5 is about the max you can go on 91 octane, but if you engine runs cool and the timing isn't too advanced it should be OK.
But I have to go with a reto cam and I also using the same intake and runners I dont want to go with a Mini ram.
Originally Posted by Paul Ruggeri
I would definitely go bigger on the cam. My car has a LT4 Hotcam, 218/228, .525/.525 and passes smog no problem. Be sure your springs can handle that kind of lift. 10.5 is about the max you can go on 91 octane, but if you engine runs cool and the timing isn't too advanced it should be OK.
I called Lunati Cams and asked the cam I have on order and it on it way how will it act in a 383 motor he said it will move my operating range of the cam down 100 RPM's and it should work fine.
I dont race the car but it will be a tourqe monster thats for sure what I want for the street.
so I have a RPM range of 900 to 5400 thats works for me Plus I am going to use 1.6 rocker arms that should help give it some more HP on top.
So it mite still end up beening a 1000 to 5500 cam.
Not saying do it but have put cams in with farged front bearings and ran along just fine. (Knicks from removing/installing, little copper showing from wear). That Lunati rep is wrong ony changing effective range by 100.
So how big of cam should I go with but I dont need a 7000 RPM screamer just a DD street car.
Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Not saying do it but have put cams in with farged front bearings and ran along just fine. (Knicks from removing/installing, little copper showing from wear). That Lunati rep is wrong ony changing effective range by 100.
Nothing new here in my life the simple thing are not so simpleafter all.
Like others have said what do the rest of the bearings look like if I have it apart mite as will I hate pulling the motor out and hows the crank look like ECT.
The time and money I could spend on redoing the 355 can cost about the same swapping over to a 383 and be done with it.
I just part out what still good.
Originally Posted by STL94LT1
WOW, started the day with a simple cam bearing change. Now we're building a 383!!
Ok I know if I say this I will probably get banned or something. But I have seen some cam bearings way out of tolerances that still get by. I say just throw the cam in there and give it a try.
As you probably know by now, you can change the front bearing easily, with the engine in the car.
But like others have said hows the rest of the bearings look like so I will pull the motor to find out.
I only have the 2 motor mount botls holding it in now.
The next qusetion is why did it do this.
If the crank of rod bearing are bad I scrap them and make it a stroker.
I been looking at kits it going to be around $800.00 to dop it.
I know I need new cam bearings if I do go with the stocker I know I have to clearence the block for the crank and rods I know I should get the Cylinders a quick hone but I dont want to take any extra wall thickness off If I dont have to or can I get away with out honong the block I know it will take longer for the rings to seat.
Front main cap bearing Okay but could be better 2nd some marks no big deal 3rd Well, I could see alot of brass Hum the motor only has 3000 miles on it it has worn though the first coating already Not good.
If the motor was a old motor I could understand the worn parts but only 3000 miles I think it ws a time bomb waiting to happen.
It 385 time I not going to change it I dont want to pull the motor again any time soon.