I am going to disable my EGR and AIR, and I was just wondering what you guys used as your blockoff plate. Also anyone with hooker long tubes, what size thread did you use for the two caps on the header EGR hookup?

 

I used the one from TPIS, it's about $10, Then used a pipe plug on the tube going to the back of the intake. Works fine,

 

Can you show me a pic of what the plate looked like from TPIS, I just ordered it, but it didn't have a pic?

And what tube are you talking about on the intake, that is what the blockoff plate is for, to replace the plate with the whole in the middle for the EGR tube.

 

Sorry, just noticed your an LT1, mine is an L98. The EGR plate can be seen on Ebay, do a search for "EGR TPI" and there are about 7 of them. On mine, there was a heat tube on the passengers side in the back that I removed. I relocated the EGR temp sensor to the manifold so no code 32. Makes it easy to change plugs or covers. If you were talking about an L98, let me know and I"ll snap some pics for you.
Mike

 

Yep, I have an LT-1.

All of the tubes will be very easy to take off, so the only thing I was worried about was the quality of the blockoff plate.

I just ordered one from TPIS, it was 9 dollars. So I hope it it nice when I get it.

 

TPIS usually has some very nice piece's.

 

I hope so, that's the one I just bought.

 

Sounds interesting Curtis629. Can you snap some pics and email them to me. Thanks.

vettenoob@hotmail.com


[Modified by VetteNoob, 11:09 PM 4/22/2002]

 

Ohh nice, I just bid on one. I need one for my 2149s. :)

 

Hey scorp, TPIS has one for $9, and I'm pretty sure it's the same thing as those $15 ones on ebay.

Also, where are you getting the header cpas(the two screw on caps), I need some?

 

Oh well too late. :) As far as caps I don't know. I may run the AIR system, so I won't be needing them. Otherwise I assume the plumbing department at home depot or something.

 

Guys I would suggust you proceed with caution if you are going to remove the EGR feed to the intake. It may cause pinging. I wanted to do the same thing on my L98, but was advised that pinging would be the result without the EGR gases being re-routed into the motor. Apperently they have a cooling effect on in the engine????

The people who have removed the feed, has this beed a problem?
89'Bowtie

 

To be honest, mine pings, but it always has, and I don't think the EGR has ever worked correctly anyway. My coolant is at 185, and I'm running the TB bypass. So it's not going to get much cooler I don't think. But I could be wrong, maybe that's my ping problem, but I don't think so.

 

When in WOT there is no EGR at all (ECM works that way)
EGR works only at light throttle, so about pinging at WOT cause by blocking EGR:it is pure is nonsense. :bs
I removed that stupid AIR and EGR and made myself blocking plate
No pinging at all
Now I can see sometimes my engine, not snakes farm :D
Jerry
Sorry for my english

 

Ditto on the Pics....

 

Sorry about the pics guys, I got the latest Virus and it wiped out my harddrive. I hope to have something over the weekend.

 

Triple ditto on the pics - - I'm interested also on what exactly you did with EGR temp sensor so you didn't get a code 32.

Thanks

 

If you do a search under EGR and my name, you'll have a lot to read but here are the hi lights.

Well here goes. I started out like most with the old code 32 and replaced just about everything before I started researching how this thing works and what the computer that signals a code 32 is looking for. This is my understanding of the system and how I’ve lied to the ECM to not get a code 32 without any chip burning.
The 86 Vette EGR system has basically 3 parts:
a) Vacuum solenoid – tells the ECM if vacuum is being held by the EGR.

b) EGR Valve – This is backpressure system. It has 2 springs, one controlled by vacuum from the tbody and a smaller one that is opened by exhaust pressure. Exhaust pressure or manifold vacuum only won’t open the EGR. The vacuum must relieve tension on the internal spring to allow the back pressure to open the pintle.

c) EGR temp switch – Located on the back of the intake it senses heat and will ground out when the EGR is actually open. That’s why the pipe gets so hot.

The ECM doesn’t physically know if the EGR ever opens. It is only looking at the outputs received from the 3 parts I listed. In my case I had vacuum to the valve but for some reason not enough backpressure to open it. The car has over 100K miles on it and I bought it from a questionable owner. It may have a different cam, or even gutted cats, or maybe something else, who knows. The EGR wasn’t actually working and still isn’t but by moving the temp switch to the exhaust pipe just below the flange it now senses the heat required to close the switch and tell the ECM everything is working OK. Even though the EGR doesn’t open it starts, runs, stops, restarts fine.

 

Mine (not installed yet) looks exactly like this except with"TPIS" on it

 

It is correct EGR only work at part throttle. If you going to disable/remove the EGR, you should disable it in the ECM/PCM programing.