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I have been getting about 21 MPG on the highway and was suggested ( by friz) I replace the o2 sensor since the're 17 years old. It's a 95 lt1 auto and got the drivers side off no problem but the pass side is stuck on. I sprayed some PB blaster on yesterday and used a 14" extention and universal with a o2 socket with an air impact from above but still can't get it off. Would a propane torch get hot enough to help heat up the exhaust pipe to aid in removal. Is there anything I should be careful about doing this, I see the fuel lines are close. Any tips for the pass side o2 ? Thanks for any help
You could drive it around and get the exhaust hot. See if that does any good. If you cant get the impact on it without an extention, you may have to drop the exhaust.
You could drive it around and get the exhaust hot. See if that does any good. If you cant get the impact on it without an extention, you may have to drop the exhaust.
The driving the car to heat it up didn't work.I have only about 20% angle on the universal joint that is connected to the o2 socket with a 14" extension connected to the universal. The extension is long enough to come all the way to the engine bay. Even with an air impact @ 140 psi it won't break free. Any tips on freeing up a o2 sensor. It's not very rusted mostly because it has 50000 miles and almost never gets driven in the rain. The o2 has been soaking in PB blaster for 3 days now. I'll hit it with the impact for a minute then resoak with PB and repeted it about 4 times. Any Ideals??? Thanks
I didn't think driving it would would work. Heating is supposed to expand the pipe, in this case anyway, away from the sensor. Driving heats them evenly. I would try the propane torch.
Perhaps you should check the voltage swing of the O2s with some sort of scanner, Tech1 or computer so see if it is a problem. Maybe you don’t have to pull them.
How do I check a o2 sensor??? Driving at 60 with cruse I only average 20-21 on highway running 1800 rpms. No codes and it starts fine, idles great and runs like a raped ape.
I did a search for, o2 sensor test then I tried "o2 sensor test", then, how to test oxygen sensor, and get results like this http://forums.corvetteforum.com/sear...rchid=24412784 on top of the list is a thread about failing emmissions and a post that says the o2 sensor should read .10v lean and 1 v rich but does not say on what wires to use. the 2nd thread is "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) the 3rd thread is,
1987 throws code 45 in park only, 4th is, Fuel injectors- How do I test? I read a page of threads and all the post with them from each of the above searchs. The only info was about the voltages.The search function is useless to me the way I use it. Could some one help me get better search results.
A '95 has esentially OBD2 diagnostic capabilities. Thus the self test it runs for the O2 sensors is generally fairly accurate and would set a code if the sensor was slow to react or inaccurate.
I would say if there is no codes you are probably wasting money replacing your O2 sensors.
If you are determined to replace it and still want to get it out and the best you have is a propane torch it can sometimes be helpful.
Heat the O2 bung, spray with penetrant, repeat this a number of times (the heating and then the cooling caused by the penetrant helps to draw the penetrant in) then try breaking loose. As mentioned above if you can use a breaker bar as opposed to the impact you may have better luck as hooked said the extension and especially the universal absorb a huge amount of the impact force.
A '95 has esentially OBD2 diagnostic capabilities. Thus the self test it runs for the O2 sensors is generally fairly accurate and would set a code if the sensor was slow to react or inaccurate.
I would say if there is no codes you are probably wasting money replacing your O2 sensors.
If you are determined to replace it and still want to get it out and the best you have is a propane torch it can sometimes be helpful.
Heat the O2 bung, spray with penetrant, repeat this a number of times (the heating and then the cooling caused by the penetrant helps to draw the penetrant in) then try breaking loose. As mentioned above if you can use a breaker bar as opposed to the impact you may have better luck as hooked said the extension and especially the universal absorb a huge amount of the impact force.
Although technically correct about the OBD2 capabilities, the on board diagnosis only call out OBD1 error codes. It's really an OBD1 system as you know. To get any OBD2 codes you really need a Tech1(2) and not even sure a scanner will see the OBD2. OBD2 was not really operational on the 94 and 95 cars.
Originally Posted by 96GS#007
You test it by watching it on a Tech 1A or scan software that is on a laptop that you plug into the diagnostic port. You do not tap into any wires.
And as I said in my post
Bancord
The O2 voltages are not a steady state voltage. Although you are correct on the meaning of it, it swings about every 1/2 second as viewed on a scanner. The PCM adjusts the fuel about 10x per second with the O2 input. If it was weak, it would be very hard to see on a scanner. The highs and lows of the swing might not be possible or swing to slow, but hard to see.
A check method is to look at the fuel trim and BLM numbers with a scanner. That would give a good indication if there is a problem. It should be about 128 on the long term trim. If the trim is way off, then further investigation would be necessary.
I soak them in PB blaster, put a tight wrench on the O2 and whack the end of the wrench as hard as I can with a ball peen hammer. They usually break free.
I have an Auto Xray scanner. It shows real time o2 sensor reading s on my 93 vert with OBD1. That's why I'm replacing one of my sensors this weekend. The same scanner would work on the 94 or 95 with the right cable.
Impact wrenches and Propane....This thread is scaring me!
Paul
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
When I had the stock manifolds and cats it was easier for me to drop the down pipe with the cat then remove the o2 sensor. I had a mechanic change the driver side a long time ago and he had a long handle wrench that he used to get it off while exhaust was hot.
I used KROIL on my sensors today and they both came off easily. You can get the stuff mail order. I've used PB Blaster and others, but this is the good stuff. On the driveer side i used the slotted sensor socket, but on passenger side i got the sensor out with an open end wrench!
A very long handled open end wrench.
Hello just wandering ,how many o2 sensors are on your engine,2 rh side and i lh side !!!!!!!
My 93 vert has two sensors -both on the exhaust system just before the catalysts. I hope there's not a third sensor!!
In any case, now the sensors on left and right show more credible activity when I use my scanner to observe their performance!
Unfortunately it didnt solve any of the drivability problems I was having. I'm resigning myself to replacing the Optispark.
Paul
mmracecars- I was shocked at just how much better Kroil worked than my old standbys. Truly Amazing!!!
Last edited by helphos; Jul 2, 2011 at 10:27 PM.
Reason: Kroil note