EXACTLY. couldn't say it better myself. Stuff tears at me later even though i think it wont.

 

Its a 50/50 split of opinions.

When a connecting rod bolt or beam breaks in a sbc at 6,000RPM's or higher.

Usually what you have left is one good cylinder head, the intake manifold,
Part of the valvetrain and ignition system.

I have raced sbc in the past too.
And helped a guy for 5 years dirt track racing.

Cheap China Scat or eagle rods did break.
Fubared his engine so there was little left each time.

Afterwards he ran a used set of 6.0" c-c Carillo rods.
Never broke them.
Was able to finish a race season and not oil the uderside of race car all up.

grind away.

I sure the hell would not.
My friend Steve has been building racing engines since 1988.
He does not grind on rod bolt heads for cam/ block clearance.

He just got done assembling a 640 Ci Prostock all aluminum Hemi.
$80,000 dollar build.
Twin spit custom made billet body Dominators costed $5k each.
Custom made all stainless headers $15K for the pair.

Around 1,600 flywheel HP on race gas.
All carbon fiber body ex pro stock car.
Close $200 K investment.

No connecting rod bolt grinding going on there.

Some farmers have $$$$$$$$$$$ by the way.

Guy has fogger nitrous system to use later on yet also.

BR

 

Forgot to mention those used Carillo 6.0" inch center to center length rods were raced on since 1988.

3-9/16' stroke crank.
369 ci.

Turned 8,000RPMs all the time.
When car got loose he did see 9,000 RPM's plus+.
Auto Meter memory tach( tattle tale).

Wet sump racing pan.

When I mean loose, the car spun around 2 or 3 times.

Carillo rods never broke.

BR

 

I used the scat pro comp forged 6" rods for my 383 scat says they have the best cam clearance of their products Im using the "hot cam" and no cam clearance issues

 

Thanks for all the information. I'm 100% sure my car will not see 8,000 rpm for a sustained period of time, so I don't feel really expensive rods are necessary.

My rods are bushed for floating wrist pins. I like the idea of clearancing it and reassembling it myself, but there are too many things that could go wrong and I would have no one to blame but myself. I don't trust myself to do it basically.

After my block is out of there, I will tell him that I'm never going to deal with his ignorant *** ever again.

 

Do what you need to do & what you think is right for you.

Best engine builders do not grind on connecting rod bolts or beams to correct for clearance issues.

You are setting up stress cracks to cause disaster later on.

You can only check early on by X-raying.

Only NASCAR & Indy shops have that kind of equipment at their disposal.

Boiler makers in Illinois that weld up the cooling pipes for Nuclear power plants have portable X- ray inspection machines too.
Every weld they make gets X- rayed.
I know 2 boiler makers that work on nuclear power plants.
How I know that fact.

BR

 

As much as I hate to say it, suck it up bud. You may need him to fix a problem 50 miles down the road. **** him off, **** on any claim.

Course, alot of places won't warranty this type of work. A lot do though.

FWIW, I also used the Scat 4340's. No clearance required for my cam either.

 

I am eagerly waiting for the next few post where someone will recommend throwing the perfectly good block in the trash too. Remember, someone ground on it for extra clearance. Now that the bottom of the block is compromised in its strongest area, it should be replaced with a 50 thousand dollar billet block.
tou never know. At 8000 rpm, it may split the block, pieces come out, and cause a crash.
The sky is falling, the sky is falling.....

Gotta love these forums.

 

Just because the general populous of the USA is using cheep china parts in their engines & C4 Vettes does not mean we all have to go China.

American V8 engines.

Keep it all American.

My Motto.

Some have their own Forums they started up.

Business must be bad in this recession.

Why they are back on C4 prospecting.

BR

 

lol..

 

i am all about buying american parts. but not everyone can afford to pay the extra price. if you have such a hard-on for american parts feel free to paypal jeremy some cash to make sure all our money stays within our boarders. until then please STFU.. and seeing as how this was standard practice for a LONG time to grind the bolts and has been recommended by people with proven engine building experience i really don't think that comparing a street motor to all out race motors with unlimited budgets has anything to do with this conversation.

 

I have to give my buddy Andy Jensen a call today. I plan to tell him that all the engines he has built over the years may need a recall. I clearly remember him sanding the beams of the rods. His point was to relieve stress risers, but it seems that he has compromised all of those rods. None failed of course, but he needs to know.
Andy also builds quite a few turbo motors pushing 2600 plus hp, so I hope I can help him with some Corvette Forum tech tips.
The do'ers do, and the talkers talk I guess.
I gotta run. I just found out my american car has some chinese parts in it from the factory. Off to buy a better car.
A new laptop too. I just noticed it is chinese. I cant win

 

Seriously, thanks for all the help guys. If anyone wants to donate to my american parts fund, ownage31337@paypal.com

 

gotta love this place

 

You know my early posts were intended to help, I hope.
My point is simply that you don't need a whole lot of high dollar parts to make a street/strip 383 work well.
Quality buys piece of mind, but no one puts a warranty on them.
When building a stroker motor, you have to make "adjustment" to parts due to the geometry changes.
Properly adjusted parts are not a liability. Note that I said properly.

 

I know the group too that dominate C4.

Rest of us are peons & very stupid according to you Pete.

Never know...........I just may be a better wrench than you think.

And faster too.

If not I know plenty of other very fast cars in IL.

BR

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlv7B...eature=related

 

I've never seen Pete calling anyone stupid. And he's allways been very helpful.

But unlike "some", he's modest enough not to give a lot of credits to himself.

I believe that work that someone has done should do all the talking.

 

Not my thoughts at all Brian. How well you can wrench doesn't concern me a bit. You may be the very best at what you do. I would not doubt that.
My point is you dont need space shuttle technology or exotic parts to build a mild street/strip 383 engine.
Your posts seem to indicate to me that all Corvette owners absolutely require the best parts, best builders, and highest tech possible to make their $3000 cars fun and reliable. You are in the small minority.

I am a nit wit, and have been doing these builds successfully for years. And, they don't break. Rods don't come flying out. No crankshafts come through the oil pan. No drama at all. And, it is not my day job, but a hobby.
WW7 is happy as a clam. I had to grind his rod bolts, and his is working well, and within his budget. Imagine that. A cheap rod, ground rod bolt, cast core camshaft, cast crankshaft, cast pistons, clevite p bearings etc.
He could not have had a more reliable engine if all of the parts mentioned were the finest forgings. His experience behind the wheel is the same.
Therefore, the "you need to build the worlds greats stuff for a c4 driver" posts are entertaining to me. Because my actual experiences taught me the opposite.
The greatest knowledge, wrenching ability, and reputation would put a professional c4 mechanic on the unemployment line if he built these engines to your standards.
There is a market for low dollar, reliable engines, transmissions etc.

You are entitled to you opinion.
We are entitled to be entertained by it.
Again, because I know better through my own build ups.

 

ha.. owned..