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After looking at all the info I'm a little slow it looks like the Corvette is set up to go to 230-235% and kinda stay there on a hot day in stop and go . I'm not sure I want it to stay at 230 anything.. I have been talking to my Ele. guy .. He thinks he can rewire it and do a few mods and keep it at about 200 stop and go are not.. ..Corvette and Gov. going for smog out put or whatever I,m going for not so hot Corvette... I think 235 is border line do boo boo to the motor.. I know i'm old school but 235-240 is to hot for me.. New fans inside one out side and and a Alum. Rad. we are going to bypass corvette going old school hot rod.. After 35+ years working on speed racers and after thinging I'll put my own stuff in and tune it myself just because corvette made it all weard doesen't mean I have to.. ..Cuting wires and going old school .. Thanks...
No need for all of those changes. Just reprogram the PCM to make the fans activate sooner. With the stock cooling system, 160* stat, and reprogrammed PCM my modified 94 rarely sees over 200* temps.
Well sounds good and would do that ..But everthing has been retuned to go very very fast and to go back and make changes now I would have to have it retuned .. Thats just something I have to deal with to have a faster LT-4 any changes will defalt the tune and start over .. Took about five hrs to get it tuned .. so to make it easy for me and so I can chang the tune when do eng. mods I just by pass the brain for the fans and use mine.. I wanted a hot rod so that the way it is . I called the tuner and he said he would have to start over if i wanted to make changes ... I just put my own temp switch in and and keep working with it's right ..Done it before on not vetts other hot rods takes a lttle time but works.. Maybe... Thanks
I'm thinking the same..You know how the tuner gods are he is good and being good need an app to get to see him ..He has people wateing to get there stuff tuned ..Lot's drag racer stuff big time stuff you know bring car or cars in traler.. Had mine tuned past winter he was not very hard to get to see buz. was slow..Now no way I did call .He said don't chang anythning.. It does run very good very good .so I just going around all that I made my bed so I have to deal with it.. I don't think it's realy that big a thing car gets hot fans go on cools off fans go off. My wife wants air me speed ..She don't care how much I spend on the old 96 and some her money ...She gona get air and a cool 96 Corvette I know how that works.. We all know how that works...
No need for all of those changes. Just reprogram the PCM to make the fans activate sooner. With the stock cooling system, 160* stat, and reprogrammed PCM my modified 94 rarely sees over 200* temps.
......My fans are programmed to come on at 180 and jump to high speed at 190.......with this programming mine has NEVER seen 200
BTW mine dynoed at 390RWHP NA on a stock LT4 350 bottom...
So you can certainly go to an upgraded radiator etc.....but so far my 15 year old stock radiator is doing fine on street driving duties
I'm used to around 200% myself and going to use what I have worst case go bigger stuff ..I think what I have will work ..I have know idea when what comes on ..I don't know how the tune changed things.. You can get outside heat indicator and switch that is tunable ..Just have to play with it tell it works right ..I have fined tuned fans on some rides that worked out perrty good .. mine works great with air off ..I have worked with some big horse motors and cooled them off ok no vettes . Vetts a little differnt I have lot's good info I going to put it all together and come up with a something... THanks
If you modify the fans electrical you might get service engine lights or SYS to read across the odometer reading. Why reinvent the wheel when it has already been done. Like stated any competent tuner would very easily reset the fan speeds. If he can't I sure as hell wouldn't trust that the tune is even close to being good! A hotrod and a hacked up car are two different things because of a simple changeable parameter in the computer.
The tuner I used works on I say $75-100,000 drag rides he knows his stuff it's geting to him that's the prop. he is not going to stop working on big money stuff and work on mine ..That's ok I haven't realy checked it out yet I mean just sat down and and realy checked it out didn't realy know what to look for > Now that I have some good info I know what I looking at I an used working on big motor hot rods .. Water in Rad. cooles off stat opens up cool water in motor and on and on.. This fall pulling motor out of vett and rebuilding 383 with LLoyd E. heads and cam out of Dallas Tx. then hole new deal just trying to past past this summer with out a melt down in the 96 .I am going to set down and gave it a good look..THANKS Might just move to Green Bay that's it... I here it's cool...er
A little late on this , been working on other stuff..Thanks for all your input this just gives something to think about when trying to work on these old C-4s lot's to know to work on these . You would think putting coolent in would be easy not in a C-4 called Ron Davis great guy lot's help we went over how to put coolent in the C-4 and get the air out I did it, it worked.. Installed the Dewitts big raditor and all new stuff hoses 185 temp stat. AC Delco one, cleaned out all the trash cleaned it all out like new..Had the Ecm. retuned to turn the fans on at 185.. Drove about 10 miles around Houston TX. 110% outside stoped at lights never got over 200% with air on..YEA.. On the way back to the shop AC compossor locked up.. Another $1000.00 got to love it... THANKS...
Put in a new radiator. They lose efficiency over the years. Hold the old one up to the light and see how much of it is plugged up with crud. Can't tell with it in the car. I am a DeWitt fan but you can get OEM rads for less than $200. Fans don't do didley over about 40 mph. Because it rarely freezes where you are, run about 25% antifreeze and 75%distilled water and a bottle of water wetter.
Put in a new radiator. They lose efficiency over the years. Hold the old one up to the light and see how much of it is plugged up with crud. Can't tell with it in the car. I am a DeWitt fan but you can get OEM rads for less than $200. Fans don't do didley over about 40 mph. Because it rarely freezes where you are, run about 25% antifreeze and 75%distilled water and a bottle of water wetter.
Eddie
Some Issues with C 4 cooling !
A.bags in front of condenser or Radiator ! You can look through hole where A C lines go through shroud for radator.
B. Turn on A C switch when hot and do a visual that both fans are kicking air !
C. Examine Radiator Cap for cracked rubber at seal ! Your system must maintain pressure to work correctly.
D. examine the Coolant tank where small lines enter /leave ! If loose it is leaking out pressure .
c. Take to Radiator shop to get Radiator cleaned it's likely stopped up and not working as it should.
I replaced one in my 95 myself and cost was $ 135 Bucks .
Oh and going to a 3 core radator you have shroud and fitment Issues as they are wider and not really needed if your system is in good shape.
Those $500 Alum radiators are not repairable if the core gets a hole in it ! $ 135 that fits vs $ 500 that you may have to modify for .
Thanks ..The $500.00 raditor is installed and is doing good a Dewitts, stuff came with it to make it fit right and yes could been cheeper live in Houston Tx. 100+ here all summer stock I don't think would do it for me needed an edge... The AC compressor went out putting one in now ..Thanks..
UP-Date: Installed new Dewitts raditor and all new stuff to go with it 185 A/C Delco Stat. hoses cleaned it all up and out and cleaned up checked out parts looked good ..Had the ECM. retuned to turn the fans on at 185..Getting the air out was a Bi%h ..Called Ron Davis he is a nice guy.told me how to get the air out sounds easy, not ,we talked about an hour on this he was a big help and it worked ..Drove around Houston the temp outside was 110 stoped a lights the temp never got over 200 yea.. Could have done the same with stock I guess..This 96 plays with the C-5s and 6s need all the help I can give it.. Wile I was raiding around going yea look at the low temp ..( Didn't put in alot of the green stuff about 1/3 and water and a bottle of wetter water stuff )..The A/C compresser went way south.. O-Well new parts on way a new comprssor $$$$ WOW... I'm moveing to Green Bay.. I here it's cooler..Thanks for all your help..If anybody thinks it's easy to work on these old C-4s it is, Just got to know people who have done this before and ask how to do that ..I here it's going down to 95% YEA.. 95!!! Thanks....
P.S. Your cooling system is pressurized solely to raise the boiling point of the coolant. It does not affect the cooling capability. The overflow tank is not pressurized.
Thanks for all your help. Way more complicated than a old school hot rod . Uesd to have a cooling guy just drive over and he would make it cool. He left town.I guess I'm the cooling guy now.. There are people who know these C-4s just have to ask ,some are nice some not. Thanks...
Up-DATE ...A little late but summer is on us most of us...Went with the Dewitts 3-row 160 Super-Stat ,cleaned and blew and cleaned and well you get the pic ..Had the Ecm tuned to have the fans come on and go off at 170 ,put a little strap below air scouper under the Rad. about 2" and drive to the sun it stays at 200 air on 110 outside no air 110 outside 185-190 all day long..A little money a little work and a lot of help...Pic can be sean @ radar502..Thanks
Reading this thread, and living in Dallas, I would also like my car to run below 200 in traffic. Once the fans click on, it never gets over 235, but I like the idea of it never getting above 200.
What does it take to reprogram the ECU to have the fans kick on at 180 and 190? If it takes a shop, any recommendations for a shop in the north Dallas area? If the ECU is reprogrammed, does that keep the Check Engine (or whichever trouble light) from clicking on?