C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

what stall to choose ?

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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 01:11 PM
  #21  
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I searched on summitracing and got confused , a lot of questions when buying a stall , and I dont know the answers lol

anti balloning ?

bolt circuit ?

pilot diameter ?

furnace brazed ?

and more ...

do i ignore those and choose 4l60e for matching ?
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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 01:16 PM
  #22  
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Stock rated stall speed is around 1500 RPM.

If the stall speed it too high like 3000 RPM the car will feel sluggish at low RPM light throttle driving. A 2800 RPM stall will not be over the engines power band it just makes city driving less enjoyable if the converter slips too much.

A 2400 stall will act like stock at low RPM and will perform better at WOT.

Last edited by bjankuski; Jun 30, 2011 at 01:41 PM.
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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 01:20 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by bjankuski
Stock rated stall speed is around 1500 RPM.

If the stall speed it too high like 3000 RPM the car will feel slugish at low RPM light throttle driving. A 2800 RPM stall will not be over the engines pwer band it just makes city driving less enjoyable if the converter slips too much.

A 2400 stall will act like stock at low RPM and will perform better at WOT.

Thanks man , What good brands to go with ? Summitracing has tci , b&m but no yank or vigilant
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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 05:21 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by yedister
No Not TCI!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I had 2 of them screw up my transmission in 1999.


I'd stay away from TCI and B&M. TCI was my first non stock converter. I had the broken TCI replaced along with the trans that went bad.

I would go with a 2800 stall. Precision Industries Vigilante is expensive but it's the best available. For normal daily driving you can't tell the difference with a good converter. Looking back I probably could have gone with the 3200.

Last edited by rickneworleansla; Jun 30, 2011 at 05:26 PM.
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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 08:21 PM
  #25  
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Here is my opinion, and its based on my signature. Go at least 3000 with the hot cam. Also try to go 9.5 in. or so. Stay with a brand such as yank or vigilantie. If I had it to do again, I would go a little higher stall. Also, add a aux. cooler.
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 01:24 AM
  #26  
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I have tried a couple of combinations, stock converter with stock cam, B&M Holeshot 2400 with a ZZ4 Camshaft , a B&M Holeshot 2400 with Lingenfelter 219 camshaft , Precision Industries Vigilante 3200 with Lingenfelter 219 Cam.

Please do a search and read my past posts ....
2400 b&m was fun on the street , pretty good i liked it
after a big research,everybody commented on the fantastic things a Vigilante could do
They were right , its one of the best mods ever, worth every cent !!!!
I paid like $ 1000 including shipping and i tell you,im STILL in love with it.
Its true that it might feel a big sluggish on downlow rpm ...but you never drive at 1200 rpms ...at part throttle is amazing ,WOT made my car a screamer and in Overdrive it pulls and pulls and pulls !!! Vigilante turned my 87 into another thing that i was not expecting.
They have better torque multiplication and im VERY happy with it !!!
Check this one for sale ...that price is a steal !!!

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-p...converter.html

Go get it before someone does !!!
read my story here :

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...tion-done.html
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 01:32 AM
  #27  
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The "SEARCH" function is worth 1 Billion dollars + to a C4 owner.

The ARCHIVES are filled with valuable information to all.

C3 included.

Spend time researching on your own for a day or 2.

I have left many valuable posts here too along with Sammy & thousands of other Corvette fanatics.

BR
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 07:50 AM
  #28  
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I agree with the 2800 stall. Anything from 23-2800 will be fine. Here's the thing though. Talking about it is fun, but drivability is a real issue. If you are in city traffic, the converter will be a bit hotter, and too much stall will be less than fun to drive. The burnouts will be terrific though!!!

I change my fluid often, on the car with the loose stall converter .

I tend to be more conservative, because too loose of a converter is like having a slipping clutch.

If you have a nitrous application, the anti balooning plate is needed.



The only reason I chime in is because i'd hate to see you spend all that time and money, and then not be happy....


Choose wisely grasshopper.....
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 08:01 AM
  #29  
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As fate would have it..there is a 2800 vigilante concerter for 600 bucks on the parts forum.... might look at that.

It's a sweet buy. Probably rated for more HP than you have, but it would work fine if 2800 stall is what your looking for!!!

Good luck!
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 08:21 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by cadmaniac
As fate would have it..there is a 2800 vigilante concerter for 600 bucks on the parts forum.... might look at that.

It's a sweet buy. Probably rated for more HP than you have, but it would work fine if 2800 stall is what your looking for!!!

Good luck!
I sent the guy a PM , But I feel more comfortable about 2400, I dont know why , maybe because I think of the city driving.
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 08:38 AM
  #31  
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i had the 2400 , then the 3200
City driving differences are MINIMAL
If i had to do it all over again i would have choose the 3200 the first time
but i learned and it was a nice experience to compare both.
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 08:52 AM
  #32  
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Mohammed, while most people on here have said 2800 or a little more you've decided on 2400 because "you don't know why". Why ask? Many of these guys have ran a 2800-3000 forever on the street, they liked it and responded accordingly. Any converter manufacturer will tell you that it's great for the street. As I stated above, you want to match the converter to the power of your engine. The smaller 9" converters will also give you the benefit of improved throttle response. Because they're a lot smaller and lighter they sort of act like an aluminum flywheel. When you tap the accelerator the engine revs a lot faster. Really works well and sounds cool. Here is a dyno sheet from Doug Rippie of a Vette that had only a hot cam, headers, intake mods and tuning.



This is about the set up that it seems that you want. A 2400 converter will launch at about 80-100 horsepower. and a 3000 will launch at about 175 horsepower. That's your tire burning right there. A 75% improvement at launch. That IS why you will be faster in the quarter. Street driving will still be a lot of fun. When you stomp it and kick down a gear from a roll, you will have more power to the wheels because of the higher stall.

If you get a 28-3000 stall it will also allow for future mods. Did you know that a 3000 stall converter on your engine now will magically turn into a 3200-3400 if you do head work a bigger build and up your torque. It allows for future expansion.

Converters aren't magic but they are assembled using some pixie dust and the builder waves a wand over each one that leaves the factory.

Last edited by 1963SS; Jul 1, 2011 at 09:52 AM.
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 03:06 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 1963SS
Mohammed, while most people on here have said 2800 or a little more you've decided on 2400 because "you don't know why". Why ask? Many of these guys have ran a 2800-3000 forever on the street, they liked it and responded accordingly. Any converter manufacturer will tell you that it's great for the street. As I stated above, you want to match the converter to the power of your engine. The smaller 9" converters will also give you the benefit of improved throttle response. Because they're a lot smaller and lighter they sort of act like an aluminum flywheel. When you tap the accelerator the engine revs a lot faster. Really works well and sounds cool. Here is a dyno sheet from Doug Rippie of a Vette that had only a hot cam, headers, intake mods and tuning.



This is about the set up that it seems that you want. A 2400 converter will launch at about 80-100 horsepower. and a 3000 will launch at about 175 horsepower. That's your tire burning right there. A 75% improvement at launch. That IS why you will be faster in the quarter. Street driving will still be a lot of fun. When you stomp it and kick down a gear from a roll, you will have more power to the wheels because of the higher stall.

If you get a 28-3000 stall it will also allow for future mods. Did you know that a 3000 stall converter on your engine now will magically turn into a 3200-3400 if you do head work a bigger build and up your torque. It allows for future expansion.

Converters aren't magic but they are assembled using some pixie dust and the builder waves a wand over each one that leaves the factory.

Thanks a lot for the great info and the interesting dyno sheet.

someone at known performance companies advised me to go with 2600-2800 , thats what some said too
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 05:15 AM
  #34  
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what everyone thinks about this TC ?

http://www.700r4l60e.com/store/catal...kup-p-124.html


I can't see the stall speed !!
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 06:01 AM
  #35  
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It says under description that stall speed can be ordered from 2200-3800 for street. Read the description.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 08:06 AM
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Sliding and 1963SS are right !
Get the 3200 Vigilante and you'll be VERY HAPPY !!!
i can tell you because i have tried other stalls and brands.
It's not that im blind for the vigilante
Let us know !
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 08:08 AM
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what everyone thinks about this TC

That's it. It's one of the best. You shouldn't need the 3 disc option. Otder a 3000 and you WILL be happy.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 09:35 AM
  #38  
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What kind of average climates do you see in Saudi Arabia? Get a derale trans pan and trans cooler to keep it cool.

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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 09:54 AM
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Yes, i think a Transcooler is a MUST if you are running a higher stall converter
Derale Transpan will help tremendously as well.
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