Hello all! I was just wondering if anyone knew if all optispark distributors used the same optical sensors from year to year? my 1994 uses a non vented opti and I have two low mileage vented opti's from a 95 Z28 camaro that are in great shape. I would like to know if I can remove the sensors/parts from a vented and use in a non vented opti?
I see the prices on chandler motorsports are really affordable,perhaps the best way to go, but I wanted to ask and see anyway!
Thanks!
Ben Smith

 

The sensors and the encoder wheel are the same. Be real careful with the wheel, it's real flimsy and bends easily. Good luck

 

No, they will not work, unless you change timing cover, Opti dowel and several other things.
Do a search on converting to vented opti's.95-97 had many upgrades over non-vented (92-94).

 

I think he wants to disassemble the vented opti and just replace the sensor in his non-vented opti. I don't think he wants to convert to a vented one. BTW, why are you changing them? Are you getting codes and it won't run?

 

Will not work, like I said the dowels are different length and design.

 

Nah man, just the two phillips head screws that hold the sensor onto the casting and the screws that hole the reluctor wheel on the shaft. You don't even need to pull the opti. Am I missing something.

1) Remove distributor (Opti) cap
2) Remove rotor
3) lift out dust shield
4) remove screws from encoder and remove it.
5)Remove 2 Phillips head screws from the optical sensor and remove it.

Install new optical sensor and reassemble. Don't forget the Loctite.

Don't need to touch the drive pin from the cam, It'll still be the short one, don't need to remove the Opti Just the internals.

 

Thanks everyone! I was merely wondering if the sensor (encoders) were the same for all opti distributors. I know I would need the different timing cover and longer dowel if converting the whole vented route. My '94 has a cold hesitation, and after it gets hot, it really cuts out/bogs down at low speeds, such as driving away from a traffic lights,falls on it's face.does better after 2k rpm's
From what I have read, could be a few things-
bad ground on the opti harness on the passenger side of the intake, bad wires/coil wire, failing ignition module, coil and worst case, the opti it's self. I already changed the fuel filter, tested fuel pressure reads 38-39 psi at idle. Doubt that's it. the car has 128K on it,no records of any opti changes in the past, so I would assume it maybe time to do so.
I'm getting all the parts together to proceed with a water pump change/opti change out,new wires/plugs since I am going to have it apart anyways.

I have two vented opti distributors from another project I was working on, and was just wondering if I could use those sensors to save a buck, they are from a genuine delco opti. the internals looked immaculate, guess they should given they were the vented variety....
Can anyone give me thier experiences with chandler motorsports replacement opti's?
Thanks in advance!
Ben Smith

 

I agree with "1963SS"-yes the opti components can be swapped over. There is a current thread concerning"'loctiting opti screws" search and read that-- Chandler is mentioned. As far as Chandler optis go some have had good luck and others not--HOWEVER I also think that's true of most optis on the market today. When I can I personally try to stay with AC Delco--but that's JMO.

Sounds like you're well on your way to removing the opti. Once again JMO and keep in mind I don't lnow what you have or have not checked/replaced-I don't think I'd be looking at the opti from your description of your troubles. I'd check the ECT per your FSM to be sure it's not out of range cold or hot. Second (actually at the top of my list ) You very well may have dirty/ partially clogged injectors with a lousy spray pattern-- they give a lot of problems. Third I'd look at the O2 sensors they do get "lazy" over time. IMO opinion O2s are a good maint. item. They would however not be a player (open loop) as far as your cold running problem goes. Once again JMO

 

Twisterup,
I'll look into those items as well. I'll have to get another set of injectors as well as the ect sensor and see where that gets me.
thanks for the tips!
Ben Smith

 

Hello everyone! this post says it all, I found the bearing number on one of my extra vented opti's I had bought off a used engine, turns out that NTN bearings only made these particular bearings from 1995 to 2001. the number on the bearing comes up a good number but discontinued. basically, I was looking to see if I could convert a vented opti housing to fit a non vented application. when I disassembled the distributer, I made reference marks on the two mating parts(drive shaft and the trigger wheel mount) I had to press the bearing out, and there is no key or reference as to how it went so when it goes back together,so, this way, it will be aligned and timing won't be off. If I had an old non vented opti, I could make sure the register (recess the bearing fits into) is of the same dimemsions as the vented opti bearing. these also have a thrust plate/retainer holding in place. I'll post the bearing number and the dimensions I got from the old bearing later this morning-OD, Bore, width, and it has a flange machined into it for the thrust/retainer bracket as well as the register it fits into on the dist housing.this is just a project, but we will see if it works. If anyone has an old, dead non vented opti they want to get rid of, please let me know, I'd like to compare notes and see where this goes.I'd gladly pay shipping!
Thanks again, and have a great day!
Ben Smith

 

The advantage of the Chandler Motorsports Optispark over Accel, Summit, AC Delco, etc is that the CMS Optisparks are manufactured by A C Delco, Taiwan, but with Mitsubishi electronics. They have a long history of successful of this design in their truck engines and CMS is only $135 with lifetime warranty. I have seen some postings of loose rotor screws lately but all Optispark rotor screws should be locktite'd. I have yet to have a problem with my CMS Optispark and I did not open it because of the lifetime warranty. I lost both Accel and Summit units in a few 100 miles. I would still go with a CMS if I needed to replace it because of the price and Mitsubishi electronics, however, I would locktite the rotor screws. Use Leslie Tool, E-4 Torx socket (1/4 drive) to open any Optispark. If not available at your local parts house they are available from Amazon.com.
Good luck and change WP while changing Optispark.

 

I like the GM OPTISPARK all the time hereing the the after market stuff just not holding up.The one in my 96 14 years old I replaced it ...about 7,000rpm missed a little 14 years old.. May be the old ones were built somewere else ..GM with MSD cap...