Currently have a D44 with 3.75 gears. Too much for the highway, which it will driving on quite a bit soon. Was thinking 3.07's.
regardless, any recommendations for a solid person to rebuild a D44.
Thanks

 

I used Ikerds. They are pricey, but nobody local would touch my rearend and swear ir wouldn't howl. Ikerds puts them together right the first time. It'll cost you about $1600 with shipping and all.

Too bad you didn't post this sooner. I just got a new diff from them because I needed 3:73 or 4:10s in my dana 44.


I'm sure someone would LOVE to trade you a D44 3:07 for your 3:73's.

Put that in the parts section before you spend $$$.

 

I had a local 4x4 shop install my 4.10's. I spoke to the mechanic and he said they do gear installs on a weekly basis. Dropped the car off and $350 later I was on my way with a rear end that was quieter than stock.

 

I rebuild all rear differentials.

C1, C2, C3, C4, C5, C6.

Ford 9 "

GM 10 bolt & 12- bolt Type "C" 8-7/8' ring gear

1957- 1964 Pontiac/ Olds

Ford 8.8"

Dana 60.

And many more style Hypoid Gear Cut Ring & Pinion

From stock street daily driver.

4X4 trail riding - rock crawling.

Road race.

Drag Race.

Can build a rear to take over 2,000 + Horsepower from scratch for YOU as long as you follow my recipe and don't deviate from my parts list I require- want.

I have built rears for low 7- second drag cars.

Blown, Twin turbo, Methonal Alcohol, 700+ shot of Fogger nitrous power adder.

They don't break.

And don't howl/ gear wine on the street.

I guarantee all my rear street & racing rear ends/ diffs I personally build.

In a a C4 Vette on the street I can guarentee it will last longer than 20 years as long as you don't run it out of gear oil & don't feed 1,000 horsepower into it & launch it hard with drag slicks and drag the rear bumper down the 1/4 mile showing off.

I am an ASE Certified Master Mechanic, ASE Advanced Driveabilty Specialist, Former GM Master Mechanic.

I have been building rear diffs- axles for racing use since 1987.

I have over 500 builds for custom rear diffs done by myself to date.

Not a single person has ever broke one racing.

If they don't get me the parts I want.............I don't build it for them.

Brian R.

 

If You are serious road racing with speeds over 150 MPH + for hours on end lap after lap............

A rear diff electric oil pump cooler assembly is necessary.

Heat build up is enemy #1 in this type of racing.

Tilton & others make the the rear diff electric oil cooler pumps required.

Like NASCAR uses.

Brian

 

The last 10 years I have let people get their own parts for me.

That way people can shop on their own & get the best deals for themselves.

I get one flat rate price for rebuilds & gear changes.

Serious drag race builds of low 9- second 1/4 mile builds & lower are more involved.
Charge extra.

Some rear diff builds take me over 12 hours to complete working non stop.

Serious precision measuring & assembly involved.
Only sure way to keep a rear diff assembly together with over 600 + flywheel horsepower going into it & out to both rear wheels.

My labor prices are competitive around the country.

And often $500 dollars lower than Chicago shops on the south & north side.

I don't work for free.

If want free$......

You have the wrong 41 year old Master Mechanic here on C4.

Brian R.

 

What is your base labor fee range to rebuild and/or replace the ring & pinion in a Dana 44 differential, Brian ? Also, what could one expect to pay for the parts on your required parts list.

I'm looking for general guidelines here, not a specific fee quote.

Thanks,

P.

 

Good to know u build rearends 87 vette i'm subscribed.

 

$375.00 labor for a complete overhaul & gear change for any C4 member.

I pay the same prices as others do for hard parts.
Purchase your own parts 1st.


C4 Dana 36 & Dana 44.

Only stand behind a C4 Dana 44 in performance use.

We all could have better longevity in a C4 dana 44 in extreme racing performance use if someone would come out with a full cast nodular iron or cast steel 3rd member center section housing.
Likely cost $30K to make some prototype runs.
Out of my league to do something like that.
Giving no bank the title to my 87 vert or 70 Ta.
Both paid off.

If any are real serious about drag racing with their C4, I highly recommend a bolt in solid rear kit.

I don't need your batwing.
Just the assembled 3rd member pumpkin.

Brian

 

What part of the world are you in ? Nothing in your profile indicates geographics ............ Every major city has a gear shop and a Corvette specialist ... check with the local speed shop to find out where the racers go for gear work ... or wait for a 3.07 diff to show up for sale , buy it and sell yours after the swap for a small $$ change-out ..........

 

100 miles south of Chicago, Illinois.

By Peoria, IL.

Few shops are as good as I am at building rear diffs for all out racing use.

I travel over 100 miles to Chicago burbs yet to build rear diffs on the spot for 8 second & faster 1/4 mile machines.

They pay me very well.
Makes it worthwhile for the gas $ I spend and travel time.
They are always happy.
No gear howl.
Some run mufflers on the street.

They pay me more than the $375 I am asking for a C4 rear diff.

Prefer to build rear diffs at home.
Keeps the wife happy.
She hates it when I am gone from 6am Saturday till Sunday morning 3am working.

But that is my life as a mechanic sometimes.

"Field Work".

 

http://www.newmancarcreations.com

I went with these guys and they treated me very well. I got a complete new rear end with 3.73's



Something to think about.

 

Hawaii. Trust me, there is no one to trust here to do this.
Problem with 3.07's is they werent a factory gear in our cars, so it would be custom like ikerds offers.

 

Ikerds did this D44 with 3.75 I have too. He has done 3 for me, 2 D36's and a D44. Shipping to him isnt cheap, by any means. But, it would be done right.
I wish there was a DIY for this rearend. I know its a little different, but sure would be nice to learn.

 

I'm speaking as a a guy with zero experience with rebuilding differentials, but the local guy who does rearends said that corvettes are different than regular cars, and special tools are needed to do them right. That's why he couldn't swear it would be perfect. So a dial indicator might not be the only tool needed to do the job.

Perhaps an experienced re-builder could offer some insight?

By the way, I believe 3:07's were the factory ratio in the 4+3 cars from 1985-1988. After that, 3:42's and 3:33's came in the ZF corvettes.

There are plenty of used 3:07's on ebay too.

 

I have heard of the 3.33's, but not 3.07s in a D44. Plenty were in the D36, but that is something my stroker will destroy in a matter of minutes.

 

I have a 3.07 dana 44 I bought recently. I'm removing the gears to put a set of 3.45's in. There were several 3.07 dana 44's on Ebay when I bought mine. If you want just the gears, I'll be selling mine in a few weeks.

 

Biggest problem is install. Diff will have to be flown to mainland, then rebuilt and sent back. I will have to look on ebay for the D44's with 3.07s. I can always sell my D44 with 3.75's.
Whats it cost to swap gears?

 

You'd be way better off getting a good 3:07 used than swapping. You will have people drooling for a 3:73 dana 44.

You'd probably make money on the deal. Really 3:07 dana 44's are a very easy find. People are looking (hard) to get a dana 44's with the 3:73's cheaper than 1500 bucks.

Whole 3:07 diff is easy to buy for less than a grand. Do your homework.

 

Thanks for the advice.