93 ignition module , HOT !!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Joined: Jun 2011
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93 ignition module , HOT !!!!!!!!!!!!!
car starts cold , module gets hot fast then wont start , i take mod out , put in frezer 5 mins , put back in vet . starts up . its a new mod . why is it getting so hot >???????????
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,696
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From: MA
What Brand ?
I know of people having good luck with the Autozone Duralast brand.
Also my want to do a search on the Coil Module MOD using washers or even moving its location off head.
Havent had to replace my 93's yet but replaced everything else around it
But did clean it and used good CPU heat sink compound for computer processors
BTW..Its called Artic Silver , has a small amount of aluminum in it.Better heat transfer to heat sink.
I know of people having good luck with the Autozone Duralast brand.
Also my want to do a search on the Coil Module MOD using washers or even moving its location off head.
Havent had to replace my 93's yet but replaced everything else around it
But did clean it and used good CPU heat sink compound for computer processors
BTW..Its called Artic Silver , has a small amount of aluminum in it.Better heat transfer to heat sink.
Last edited by Repzard; Jul 13, 2011 at 12:43 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,647
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From: Argillite KY
This is a good time for someone to check the spacer/air gap cooler theory. As mentioned, put a few washers between the heatsink and the head. See if that makes a difference. Inquiring minds need to know.
Since the transistor in the module acts as a switch and not a regulator there shouldn't be that much heat generated. Warm yes but hot....no.
Since the transistor in the module acts as a switch and not a regulator there shouldn't be that much heat generated. Warm yes but hot....no.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 4
From: Argillite KY
The most common thing that could cause this is a partially shorted coil. (Not enough resistance on the primary side or secondary side.) I think the resistance is around .3 ohms maybe on the primary and about 8500 ohms on the secondary.
From the high voltage coil wire to the pink wire might be around 8500 ohms and from the pink wire to the dark green wire about .3-.4 ohms. Check at the coil with the coil disconnected.
Good luck
From the high voltage coil wire to the pink wire might be around 8500 ohms and from the pink wire to the dark green wire about .3-.4 ohms. Check at the coil with the coil disconnected.
Good luck
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
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St. Jude Donor '12
Answered in your other post - it has to have the thermal paste and connected to the heat sink or you fry it.
I have a couple of washers between the head and the ICM/Coil assembly. It helps some, parts still get real hot but if I put a fan over it while in the pits it cools down much quicker.
I have a couple of washers between the head and the ICM/Coil assembly. It helps some, parts still get real hot but if I put a fan over it while in the pits it cools down much quicker.
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Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,647
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From: Argillite KY
Hey Barney, the post that said you were unable to touch it after 1 minute of running is the biggest symptom. It really does sound like something shorted on the secondary. I have mine on a custom heatsink but I can touch it just fine after running it hard for 30 minutes. Since you've changed three of them it may be time for a coil. There isn't really anything else in that circuit.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
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St. Jude Donor '12
Check the wiring - use the FSM troubleshooting procedure.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,696
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From: MA
Answered in your other post - it has to have the thermal paste and connected to the heat sink or you fry it.
I have a couple of washers between the head and the ICM/Coil assembly. It helps some, parts still get real hot but if I put a fan over it while in the pits it cools down much quicker.
I have a couple of washers between the head and the ICM/Coil assembly. It helps some, parts still get real hot but if I put a fan over it while in the pits it cools down much quicker.
Maybe you can mount a computer or GPU fan on a switch or temp sensor where fan kick on at certain temp like wiring it into cooling fans
also use it if your in traffic as well as racing.
If I was to do a mod like this for racing I would move the module off head and relocate it ,get rid of stock heat sink and use a copper cpu heat sink and mount on firewall or a high spot up front.
Stay nice a cool that way
Why GM put it on the head I dont know ,but you can add it to the many flaws the LT1 is born with
Le Mans Master
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From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
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St. Jude Donor '12
There are a bunch of wires that need to be extended to make the relocation work.
Its on the head so the wires can be fairly short, including the high voltage coil wire.
With the new harness from the opti to the connector on the intake I don't have the heat problems on mine any more. Everything still gets pretty warm, just not so warm it craps out on me.
Its on the head so the wires can be fairly short, including the high voltage coil wire.
With the new harness from the opti to the connector on the intake I don't have the heat problems on mine any more. Everything still gets pretty warm, just not so warm it craps out on me.
