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I have a '93 that is displaying an SES light after I start the car. The SES typically goes out after a few minutes. The car is throwing a knock sensor code. A few weeks ago, I got under the car and cleaned the connections on the knock sensors. That cleared up the SES for about a week and a half, then the issue returned. My question is, based on past experience, am I better off changing out the sensors first, or the connectors? I read a previous post where an individual tested the knock sensors and they checked out good, but could not get the SES to go away until the sensors were changed.
I have a '93 that is displaying an SES light after I start the car. The SES typically goes out after a few minutes. The car is throwing a knock sensor code. A few weeks ago, I got under the car and cleaned the connections on the knock sensors. That cleared up the SES for about a week and a half, then the issue returned. My question is, based on past experience, am I better off changing out the sensors first, or the connectors? I read a previous post where an individual tested the knock sensors and they checked out good, but could not get the SES to go away until the sensors were changed.
Sounds like you may have read one of my previous threads. My 93 displayed almost identical symptoms. I did all the tests in the FSM and could find no problems so I started by replacing the connectors, but no luck, new sensors did fix mine.
One thing I do recall from my testing is that the two original knock sensors had quite different resistance, even though both were within specs. The replacements were much more closely matched. I have no idea if that is significant.
When I replaced connectors I did not even get the temporary improvement you mention after cleansing yours, so I would at least take a second look at them, good luck.
I would check the connectors first, especally since cleaning them cleared up your problem once, these have a reputation of failing when they get old..If you do find it to be the sensors, check the FSM for the torque specs, if there not torqued close to spec sometimes they won't give accurate readings. I have known more then one person that had problems after putting them in without torqueing to spec..Also they should come with sealer already on them, using the wrong sealer can cause them not to work properly...WW
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St. Jude Donor '12
My 92 did the same thing. All tests indicated knock sensors were good.
Had to do some other work and decided to just replace them. Codes went away with new sensors