I want to increase the hp on my 1989 greenwood but i want to make sure i dont torque my rear end so what do i need to do to prevent that from happening????

 

How much Horsepower & Torque are you going to add ?

Over 500 hp ?

 

ya i just got the car and im looking to get over 500 hp by the time im done but i know if i just do that with out anything else it could ruin the back end so how do i prevent that?

 

You need $$$ to keep repairing the Dana 36 Rear used in the C4 Auto trans cars.
Or you need $$$$$$$$ to keep repairing the Dana 44 Rears used in the stickshift C4's.

Or a larger pile of $$$$$$$$$$ to keep buying the C4 Dana 44's anywhere from $1,400 to $2,000 each with the correct Dana 44 rear batwing cover.

Or you pay $5,000 for an aftermarket bolt in 12- bolt rear diff kit or 9" inch Ford Rear diff kit.

Or You backhalf your car & turn it into a full pledge dedicated racecar.
Drag race style or Road Race style.
Cost?
Low as $2K doing it all yourself with swap meet sourced parts.
Or high as $100 K taking it to a Pro- Stock Class Chassis shop.
I have seen those Pro Stock cars being built here in IL in the past years.
Unbelievable.
Need very FAT WALLETS.

I am converting to a Solid Rear Axle myself.
My thread is on this same main page.
Check it out for your self.

Likely going to Fab something up myself with some carefully chosen aftermarket suspension parts available from Drag Racing Suppliers I am Familiar with & my Racing Buds I know.
I also have a friend( best man in my wedding last year) that is a Master Machinist.
Give him a sketch on a piece of paper Or a blueprint & he can make it for me.

C4 independent rears suck badly when you want to go real fast with a clean & hard launch over & over again without any possibility of breakage.
(lower than 11's).

Brian R.

 

You won't really have to worry about the rear end until you do get it up into the 500s which will take money in the first place. If you want to make it a drag or track car, plan it all out before hand and just start collecting the parts. Once you get one full system, the drive-train for example, then install it all at once.

Since my car is just a street devil, I'm going to stay with the independent. It's just a pain driving in town on a solid axle.

 

It would probably be best to explain what application with the car, your intended use. Drag Race, AutoX, Road Course, or Street? There are going to be varying opinions base on application.

 

Im gonna use it for street, i do not intend to turn it into a drag car or anything like that. i want to make this car to compete with the new 5.0 mustangs and the new camaros out there on the street.

 

build a stroker and dump on most new cars. mine isn't even together yet but i know its going to take massive ***** on people who think their 4 cylinder turbofire mega muffler rice rockets are fast



Seriously, in order to keep up with the new cars you will have to spend a bit of $$$

 

My 1970-1/2 Pontiac TA has solid rear axle to begin with from the factory.

Rear Multi Leaf(5) springs per side.

The Handling rivals any Corvette.

I take On Ramps & Off Ramps with that car at 100 - 140 MPH with that TA by carefully feathering the gas pedal.

Flying around at 160 - 170 + Top End
Handling is just awesome.

People that tell me a straight axle will not handle..............
Not True.
Engineers at Pontiac had it right.

Brian

 

Since you are from CA and have strict emissions laws, someone from CA would probably need to verify some of this. This IMO would be what I'd do with that car- Upgrade to high flow Cat and eliminate pre cats (if possible), Magnaflow rear cat back section or equivelant, Complete Tune up, underdrive pulleys, since you have an automatic 3.73 rear gears, and dyno tune. Good grip from tires are important too, so find a extreme performance summer tire, such as Kumho XS with a 140utg rating or lower.

P.S. No street racing

 

ha well that is where i am ahead of the game, i registered my car in Colorado and since i am military i dont have to change the registration so i can put whatever i want in the car as long as it is up to colorado standards which are more laxed compared to californias, gotta love them loop holes