Freon Leak
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 33
From: Charlotte Michigan
Freon Leak
I charged my '93 about 2 weeks ago with 134 and lasted one day. I recharged it with 4 cans of stop leak and dye and 2 cans of freon with stop leak and dye lasted 5 days. I do not see any visible leaks on the pump and hoses. Will I have to tear off everything to see if it is in the evaporator and the condensor? I might be able to see in the opening on the right side of the condensor? Which area is more likely to find the leak/component, evaporator or condensor? If I had to replace the condensor I might just want to consider putting in a larger radiator. Engine heats up in slow traffic in the 230 range. This is a 1993 LT1 converted from R12 to 134. Also the pump clutch only engages when it is in the Auto selection not in the other vent zones.
Thnaks.
Thnaks.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,376
Likes: 111
From: Cherokee National Forest TN
I agree, it does "sound" like the evaporator provided you have looked at the condenser with a good light.
Suggest having the system tested for leaks with an electronic leak detector to determine the actual problem area..
Suggest having the system tested for leaks with an electronic leak detector to determine the actual problem area..
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,050
Likes: 147
From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
If you put that much oil in there, be sure to change your receiver dryer as well. Oh, and if the leak is in the evap, you will have a red oil leak on your carpet.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver WA
take it to a professional with a sniffer to find your leak.
i find these repairs are cheaper when done at your local college, instructors monitor this process very closely and you save alot of money.
i find these repairs are cheaper when done at your local college, instructors monitor this process very closely and you save alot of money.
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Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
I charged my '93 about 2 weeks ago with 134 and lasted one day. I recharged it with 4 cans of stop leak and dye and 2 cans of freon with stop leak and dye lasted 5 days. I do not see any visible leaks on the pump and hoses. Will I have to tear off everything to see if it is in the evaporator and the condensor? I might be able to see in the opening on the right side of the condensor? Which area is more likely to find the leak/component, evaporator or condensor? If I had to replace the condensor I might just want to consider putting in a larger radiator. Engine heats up in slow traffic in the 230 range. This is a 1993 LT1 converted from R12 to 134. Also the pump clutch only engages when it is in the Auto selection not in the other vent zones.
Thnaks.
Thnaks.
93's came with r-12, so if you did everything correct and vacuumed out the system , changed the dryer and replaced all the o-rings with ones for r134a, then you need to find the seals you blew out and replace. Also, there is a pressure switch that needs to be be changed to the ones used in the 94 vette (which is r134a).
If you did not do all of the above when you converted, you just through your money away and you will have to do the above. Trust me, I converted my 93 and my old 92 to r134, you cannot over pressurize these systems or not replace the o-rings.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,621
Likes: 207
From: Orlando FL
Good place to start.Many of the dyes need a U/V light to see.
Seems like you like to service your own stuff which is OK. But take some of that money and invest it in a leak detector. I got one from harbor freight and it works well for consumer use. Not as rugged as a good commercial one but if you take care of it, it will last.
The high side valve which is a ball valve are real junk and are the ones that leak. I know, one has been replaced and one that is going to be.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 897
Likes: 12
From: Land of Whiskey Rebels, PA
As I understand it, R134a is NOT compatible with the oil used in R12 systems. In other words, the oil used with R12 will destroy the R134a refrigerant. And, the problem is that no matter how much you clean the system, some of old oil will remain in it, eventually destroying the R134a. So, it seems to me that the best way to "retrofit" an R12 system is to use a refrigerant that still uses (is compatible with) the old R12 oil. Do an internet search on it. The information is out there.
Incidentally, I was told last week that in 2015 car manufacturers would be changing from R134a to, yet, another ("greener") refrigerant. The EPA might even be forcing it on them. So, who knows.
Just thought I'd throw an alternative out there for you.
Incidentally, I was told last week that in 2015 car manufacturers would be changing from R134a to, yet, another ("greener") refrigerant. The EPA might even be forcing it on them. So, who knows.
Just thought I'd throw an alternative out there for you.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,141
Likes: 7
From: Metairie Louisiana
Pro
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 635
Likes: 1
Hi Just for your information I was told by a friend who is a mechanic that those electronic freon leak testers didn't work all that great. He said that a lot of freon leaks are very slow small leaks, they can take days to amount to anything but over time enough to be a problem. He said they would tell if you had a leak but weren't very good at pin pointing exactly where leaks were. I think the uv die and special light is still the best way to find a leak.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,193
Likes: 16
True..we use them but if the leak is very small the detector does not pick it up...never used the dye on a car..we did try it on an r22 5 ton unit...I wasn't there but it exploded back into the room covering ..everything..and everyone...
but for a car..never did it so I can't say..but it should be the best way...
but for a car..never did it so I can't say..but it should be the best way...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,621
Likes: 207
From: Orlando FL
Hi Just for your information I was told by a friend who is a mechanic that those electronic freon leak testers didn't work all that great. He said that a lot of freon leaks are very slow small leaks, they can take days to amount to anything but over time enough to be a problem. He said they would tell if you had a leak but weren't very good at pin pointing exactly where leaks were. I think the uv die and special light is still the best way to find a leak.
I have no trouble finding and pinpointing a leaky valve.
