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??? - not doubting what you have, but... i just had my 96 (base) aligned friday, and the specs given were:
front(r/l)camber: 0.0 to 1.0 degrees front(r/l)caster: 5.5 to 6.5 degrees front(r/l)toe: -0.10 to 0.10 degrees
front cross camber: -0.5 to 0.5 degrees front cross caster: -0.7 to 0.7 degrees front total toe: -0.20 to 0.20 degrees
rear(l/r)camber: -0.5 to 0.5 degrees rear(l/r)toe: -0.10 to 0.10 degrees
rear total toe: -0.20 to 0.20 degrees rear thrust angle: -0.10 to 0.10 degrees
my alignment was done on a newer hunter machine, and the specs were given as a 94-96 corvette. one thing i find odd about the .pdf file is, for a C4. they list toe in fractional inches. i'm no alignment/suspension expert, but i just find it odd, especially in this day of lasers and computers, to list any alignment spec in fractional inches - ???
not disputing anything here, i just find it odd, and as i said - i'm no expert. if a spec is given in inches, say 1/32" where is the measurement taken from - an imaginary centerline of the car, and at what point on the tire/wheel assembly? ...and what is used for measuring that dimension - a 8' tape measure - ??? - remember 1/32" = .03125 - someone must have some pretty damn good eyes. in most cases, alignments are done in a shop, on a rack, and i'm guessing that's where the OP is coming from...
These are not STOCK specs. the stock specs. are designed to minimize steering wander and dartiness. For the country club set. They also tend to wear out the outside edge of your tires a lot.
You want better wear and handling, go with the VBP specs. I did and it drives fine no wander or dartiness that I notice. Turn in is sharper and the car feels more responsive.
Dont know where the guy got his specs but I had mine done by a heavy duty truck place recommended by my Corvette mechanic. No lasers there, everything done on a manual machine. The guy took about 3 hours and did an amazing job. Beautiful even tire wear and on a non rutted smooth road it keeps an arrow straight path. Everything isnt lasers and computers.
Dont know where the guy got his specs but I had mine done by a heavy duty truck place recommended by my Corvette mechanic. No lasers there, everything done on a manual machine. The guy took about 3 hours and did an amazing job. Beautiful even tire wear and on a non rutted smooth road it keeps an arrow straight path. Everything isnt lasers and computers.
i'll tell you where i got my specs - THE 1996 FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL - page 3A-6 and 3A-7. i don't track my corvette, so the factory street settings are OK with me. i figure GM knows more about alignment and suspension than i do... , not everything is lasers and computers, and the fact you had your alignment done on a manual machine at a truck shop - well, if that's good for you, that's OK with me. the topic of this thread is "95 stock alignment specs". i listed the factory specs - i felt it was useful information that answered the OP question. some seem to put a negative spin on my replies, without adding any useful information. all i said was i found it odd to see an alignment spec in fractional inches. so, what specs did the truck shop alignment your car to? it doesn't matter if it was a "state of the art" laser/computer machine or some "old school" manual rig, what matters is what were the specs that the alignment was done to, and the final results.
if a spec is given in inches, say 1/32" where is the measurement taken from - an imaginary centerline of the car, and at what point on the tire/wheel assembly? ...and what is used for measuring that dimension - a 8' tape measure - ??? - remember 1/32" = .03125 - someone must have some pretty damn good eyes. in most cases, alignments are done in a shop, on a rack, and i'm guessing that's where the OP is coming from...
The tool used to measure toe is a trammel bar. It is a rigid bar that sits on the ground and has pointers that reach up to the height of the center of the wheel. You scribe a line on the tires all the way around, set the bar pointers at the scribed lines behind the tires, move it to the front of the tires, and there is a gauge on the trammel bar that reads toe in inches when you move the pointers to the scribed lines on the front of the tires. Toe (total) is the difference between the front and the rear centerline of the tires.
If the manufacturer of the vehicle publishes toe in inches it can be set manually. Hunter converts it to degrees for their machines.
I use the daily driver specs on my BFG KDW since 2007 and I have 100% even wear on all tires.
The GM specs suck!
aside from toe, which is in fractional inches, and i don't know the equivalent degree spec, the BFG KDW street specs differ little from the GM specs. i see the the street camber is zero with no tolerance - WTF! front caster is within 1/2 degree of the GM spec. i doubt if you could tell the difference in 1/2 degree or two vehicles - one by GM, and one by BFG KDW specs. ??? it's your opinion, ands no flames but i'm guessing some people will bitch anything GM. your specs fail to list any total toe, cross camber and caster, thrust angle, etc. IMHO, partial alignment specifications SUCK too!
i really need to quit hanging around this thread...
aside from toe, which is in fractional inches, and i don't know the equivalent degree spec, the BFG KDW street specs differ little from the GM specs. i see the the street camber is zero with no tolerance - WTF! front caster is within 1/2 degree of the GM spec. i doubt if you could tell the difference in 1/2 degree or two vehicles - one by GM, and one by BFG KDW specs. ??? it's your opinion, ands no flames but i'm guessing some people will bitch anything GM. your specs fail to list any total toe, cross camber and caster, thrust angle, etc. IMHO, partial alignment specifications SUCK too!
i really need to quit hanging around this thread...
Total Toe should be less than max. stock spec, rule of thumb on cross camber and caster is within .5 degrees of one another, .25 degrees for cross camber is preferable, Thrust angle as close to zero as possible.
I aligned my Corvette myself using VBP's specs, you do not need complete specs. unless you are using SAI, included angle, etc...for a alignment/suspension related diagnosis.
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