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I had to get my 90 towed this morning from the gas station. It seemed to start fine and all at first but it seemed like on acceleration it was sputtering a bit on the way there. I topped off the tank with premium and got back in and it started ok. As I started to turn around in the station it died and wouldn't restart. It seemed to be catching a bit as it was cranking but even when feathering the pedal it wouldn't completely start. It has been surging a bit at idle lately. I'm thinking the fuel pump has gone bad. I haven't been back home to check the fuel pressure yet but I am suspecting that is the issue. Does that sound like what it may be? Any help would be great.
Sounds like what mine did when the Fuel pump was dying. I drove all the way from Pa to southern VA, stopped to get gas then not even a 1/4 mile down the road it died. Paid $200 to get it towed the 60 miles home and once it hit the ground in front of the house it fired up. I drove it into the garage. Started it the next morning and it sputtered and spat. I checked FP and it was a done deal. I got the pump kit from Racetronix.
Could possibly be injectors too. There's a sticky about how to test them by FICinjectors around here somewhere.
So, I get home check the valve on the fuel rail and it squirted some fuel. Still would not start though. Then I took a rubber mallet and tapped on the fuel neck to see if it would jar it started. Nothing. We push it in the garage.
I checked the tps voltage exactly .56
I checked injector ohms 16
I put the charger on the battery and let it
charge for about 20 mins I go back out and try and start it and
it starts. WTF?
Is it possible that the battery is bad and not causing it to do weird things? Not sure how picky these cars are with voltage/etc.
I dont really trust to drive the thing now I guess Im going to have to take it on short trips every now and then.
When the fuel pump starts to go it will malfunction once it gets hot. What you should do is get a fuel pressure tester, attach it to the fuel rail then tape it to the windshield and go for a ride around the block.
You can take the battery to Autozone and have it tested. Since these cars are so computer controled they do seem to be fickle about voltage.l
So, I get home check the valve on the fuel rail and it squirted some fuel. Still would not start though. Then I took a rubber mallet and tapped on the fuel neck to see if it would jar it started. Nothing. We push it in the garage.
I checked the tps voltage exactly .56
I checked injector ohms 16
I put the charger on the battery and let it
charge for about 20 mins I go back out and try and start it and
it starts. WTF?
Is it possible that the battery is bad and not causing it to do weird things? Not sure how picky these cars are with voltage/etc.
I dont really trust to drive the thing now I guess Im going to have to take it on short trips every now and then.
C4's are not, "picky", about battery voltage. They do usually quit running at about 10 volts, but a car battery is considered discharged at 12.0 volts. Since you can crank the engine, your battery is good! Also, once the engine is running the alternator keeps the battery voltage at 14.3 volts.
But...keep it charged up!
Alright, so I checked the fuel pressure and it came in just under 40 psi on the 2 sec pre-start. After start it dropped a bit then back to the same place. On accel. it will surge up a little to around 45 but will return back to just under 40 at cruising speed. It will sort of tick down and up and down in pressure quite a bit though when just cruising around which I thought was odd because you would think that no matter what the pressure would stay constant.
The kicker is that on accel. sometimes it would drop to about 24-25psi. and the car would sputter a bit. Not as bad as it has where it wouldnt start. I could 'nt get it to completely stall as usual though. The amount I test drive it because I cant trust it is only a 1/2 mile loop. But within that time it will do it. Again it only stalls on accel. Fuel pump?
How is the fuel filter? Maybe install a new one & retest fuel pressure. I like the NAPA Gold brand.
Suggest pulling back the rubber boot on the alternator "bat" terminal. My bat wire was frayed at the connection & as posted eariler about 90's electrical systems created crazy electrical problems even though the newer battery was at 12.4v & the system was charging at 14.4v. Very few amps are delivered through just a few strands of wire.
Luck with your fix, sounds like your on the right track.
Well, it ended up being the fuel pump. I replaced it and it seems to have helped the idle as well. Drove it into work today and it didnt have any of the previous sputters or dying. Thanks for the help.