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I apologize for this as I am having problems with searches. I am having problems and wanted to get some thoughts. This has probably been covered so again sorry:
To start off: I was having problems for a while and I was getting a code 32 - egr. I fixed a vacuum line and the code was gone. Car seemed to be running good. Occasionally I would have issues but no codes. I will explain below:
I fixed the fuel sending unit on my car the other day so that I can finally tell how much fuel I have. In the near past I have noticed on occassion that I would lose power. In other words, if I started off from a dead stop and mashed the pedal I would get bad hesitation and I would have to feather the pedal to get the car moving good. Also, when I was cruising and mashed the pedal it felt like the tranny would kick down and the engine sounds like it is revving but no power. Almost like it was getting air but no fuel. I originally thought it was a fuel issue since I could not tell how much gas I had. So I would stop put some gas in the car and it would run great again.
Now, after I fixed the sending unit, I was driving and it was running good then suddenly started the above problem again. Car was reading 3/4 tank. Then I got a service engine light out of the blue. I shut down the car and restarted and light went out. When I got home I pulled the code and it was a 43. I checked the connections at the ESC and I also found a lose bracket on the motor and I tightened it. Problem is the car is still running like noted. In park it revs fine, while driving it runs fine but I don't have any takeoff and no kick down.
With all this said please keep in mind that this car was beat when I got it. 111,000 miles on it and it looked like it had been mistreated. The only positive thing is that there is a new fuel pump in it. The only things that I have done to the motor since I purchased it are as follows:
Plugs, wires, cap and rotor, new injectors, cut airbox lid, removed cat converter, replaced o2 sensor, replaced fan on/off switch. Hope this is enough info to get some ideas on what I should do. Thanks
You are correct I have not replaced it. I guess that would be a good place to start. It is cheap and easy enough to do. Although I am not sure that would cause all this but it does need done.
Update: Ok I picked up a fuel filter and replaced the one that was on the car. Definitely needed it. I cleaned the MAF with TB cleaner as well (hope that is ok to do) Anyhow, here is what is up now....
Car seems to run better now but if I start out in first and smash the gas as soon as it hits 3200 rpm it bogs out. It does this in every gear all the way to overdrive. Overdrive seems fine. Also, if I am cruising at 35 to 45 and smash it same thing, car revs to 3200 and then sputters. As long as I don't push the rpm pass 3200 it has all the power as soon as it hits that it loses it. Any thoughts?
One more thing, if I rev the car in neutral it sounds perfect. If I run the car up to 3200+ slowly it gives me no problems.
Last edited by dinunski; Aug 22, 2011 at 08:22 PM.
Update: Ok I picked up a fuel filter and replaced the one that was on the car. Definitely needed it. I cleaned the MAF with TB cleaner as well (hope that is ok to do) Anyhow, here is what is up now....
Car seems to run better now but if I start out in first and smash the gas as soon as it hits 3200 rpm it bogs out. It does this in every gear all the way to overdrive. Overdrive seems fine. Also, if I am cruising at 35 to 45 and smash it same thing, car revs to 3200 and then sputters. As long as I don't push the rpm pass 3200 it has all the power as soon as it hits that it loses it. Any thoughts?
One more thing, if I rev the car in neutral it sounds perfect. If I run the car up to 3200+ slowly it gives me no problems.
Last night decided to reset the computer and run it for a while. I plan to take it out today and try to get at least 20 to 30 miles on it to see if I get any codes. I will post findings this evening.
Can you get a scan? What you describe kinda indicates there is no spark advance when the throttle is opened. Could also be TPS injectors and/or your ECM. A scan will give you better direction.
Check your T.P.S idle voltage (0.54), maf connections,burn of relays or module and base idle.
The tps, maf signal's will be used by the ecm to regulate the pulse widht's to the injectors when warmed up the oxygen sensor will be used also. Always best to reset your ecm after a code or if it ran rough as the ecm will change things to try and correct it.
It will re learn to run the engine when it has been reset (battery disconnect and reconnect)
Hope it helps you
Gerard
Wow a little greek in there as well huh? I intend to replace the knock sensor by the weekend. It is cheap and probably needs replaced anyhow. I did reset the computer after cleaning the connections, replacing the fuel filter and replacing the ignition coil. Still coded on me after the 30 mile run I made. Seems to run good till car gets to operating temp. if that means anything.
UPDATE: So as of today my car is running the best it has ever run. Hopefully it will continue. Here is what happened: I replaced the knock sensor and reset the computer. Took the car out and put about 60 miles on it. Still bogged out but no codes. So one problem was fixed. Now if you remember I had pulled the sending unit once already and cleaned it and reinstalled and gas gauge was still not quite right. So I decided to go ahead and pull it again. I also decided to replaced the screen at the end of the fuel pump as well.
Now I pulled out the entire unit, recleaned the sending unit and that part back together. I then pulled the screen off the end of the fuel pump. First thing I noticed was a very small round flapper that was covered in dirt. I decided to take the entire fuel pump out and clean it up. I removed the little flapper and used air to clean it out. I also repositioned the main line that plugs into the top of the fuel pump. Finally I went ahead and cleaned and reconnected the wiring both at the components and at the main cover for the unit.
I then reinstalled the sending unit into the tank. Before I plugged in the connector I used a pick and squeezed the pins on the connector to make better contact. After completing all this I took the car out for a ride and what a huge difference in performance. I don't think the car has ever run as good as it does right now. I hope this fixed the problem and I will update if it did not but at the moment it is running awesome.