C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Rear upper shock bolt 92 access

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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 05:38 PM
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Default Rear upper shock bolt 92 access

I pulled up the carpet in the rear hatch and for the life of me, i do not see any access to the upper shock bolt. There is some fiber glass material painted the body color where it would look like I would be able to get through the tunnel. its a 92.
There is a hinge that holds the roof panel and thats it.
anyone?

for the newbie

thanks
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 05:50 PM
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I would have to go and look at the car to be sure and it's pitch dark outside, so that's not an option. Plus, I have a beer in my hand :P

I replaced the rear tires on my 91 last week. If you jack the car up, take off the tire and remove the big plastic thing that GM calls a wheel well, you should be able to see it from there, or at least a way to get to it. I don't think you have to remove an access cover on the inside. I don't have any carpet and I don't remember an access plate AT ALL. 15 mins to get the tire and wheel well off and you should be able to get to it.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 06:26 PM
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Thank you! I also replaced a bad wheel stud. Hopefully I can finish this tonight!
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 06:41 PM
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I keep telling you nOObs to buy the Field Service Manual or at least the cheap Haynes Repair Manual. Chilton has it on-line.

You guys dont listen...
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 07:36 PM
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I have the haynes and it does not mention how to access the rear upper shock bolt. doing a seach says you need to get to it from under the carpet. Since the bolt is on the other side of the frame rail and appears to only be accessible though the trunk. And no one mentions anything about it on here. Yes I will invest in an FSM, but i dont have one right now.

I pulled the wheel line out and the frame rail si in the way. On this car there doesnt appear to be an access hole via trunk, unless the previous owner cut the hole, then fiblerglassed over it.
It shouldnt be this hard to get a stupid bolt out
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 07:44 PM
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From anoher forum but i will post this incase someone else runs into this issue and will save some time

IIRC you take off the two little nuts at the top, the nut at the bottom and the shock comes off with the plate attached to the top. Take off the big nut that holds the plate to the shock and transfer the plate to the new shock. Installation is the reverse of removal. Hope this helps.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by dolbnyc
From anoher forum but i will post this incase someone else runs into this issue and will save some time

IIRC you take off the two little nuts at the top, the nut at the bottom and the shock comes off with the plate attached to the top. Take off the big nut that holds the plate to the shock and transfer the plate to the new shock. Installation is the reverse of removal. Hope this helps.
Winnah! But yes, it's in the FSM.

Not sure where you got something from the search engine about going thru the body/ pulling back the carpet The body is closed as is the rear portion of the frame. You cannot get to the frame without cutting a hole in the fiberglass. Then you would have to cut a hole in the frame.

The Haynes manual is basically useless as it covers nearly all years and there are enough differences in the C4's that you really should have the FSM to have the correct information. Check out the C4 Parts For Sale section to find used ones. You should be able to get a set (2 volumes) in very good condition for around $60 or so.


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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 08:20 PM
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you have a different manual



Raise and support the vehicle safely. Support the knuckle with a jackstand.

Remove the shock absorber lower mounting nut and washer.

Remove the shock absorber upper bracket mounting bolt.

Disconnect the shock absorber from the lower mounting stud.

If necessary, remove the shock absorber upper bracket retaining nut and remove the bracket assembly.

Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.



Tighten the upper bracket retaining nut, if removed, to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). With the suspension at proper trim height, tighten the upper bracket mounting bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm) and the lower mounting nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm).

Do you know how to google?

Even Mr. Thailand knew how to do this.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 09:15 PM
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Ha HA this is funny. I just came back from an autox and noticed the dreaded loose shock noise, gives me something to do tomorrow. Didn't look at my book but just looking under the car you can figure it out quite easily. Starter is also acting up, looks like a busy day. Bty, took first both days.

Last edited by kimmer; Aug 28, 2011 at 09:17 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 11:15 PM
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The top of the shock is bolted to a bracket. That bracket is attached to the frame via two bolts that you can remove as soon as you raise the car and remove the wheel.

Here's a picture of the bracket - you can see one of the bolts clearly, and the other is on the other side of the bracket.\



Here's one that shows the bracket pretty clearly.



Good Luck!

Steven
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