Help! It just won't start!
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Joined: Sep 2011
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Help! It just won't start!
I've been dealing with this for well over a week now, when I turn the key it will turn on all of the electrical components but if I try to start it...nothing, not even turning over. I would have someone check it out but It's kinda stuck in the driveway. I've been told it could be the starter or it could be VATS. The problem lies with the fact that I don't know how to check the VATS because I've never worked with it before and I can't check anything with the starter because I don't know where it is on a corvette. Any ideas on what I can do to get it started again? And does anyone have a picture of where the starter is? Also Ideas on testing thing to figure out what it is would help.
Last edited by RRPVETTE; Sep 2, 2011 at 02:46 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 838
Likes: 2
From: Louisville Ky
I've been dealing with this for well over a week now, when I turn the key it will turn on all of the electrical components but if I try to start it...nothing, not even turning over. I would have someone check it out but It's kinda stuck in the driveway. I've been told it could be the starter or it could be VATS. The problem lies with the fact that I don't know how to check the VATS because I've never worked with it before and I can't check anything with the starter because I don't know where it is on a corvette. Any ideas on what I can do to get it started again? And does anyone have a picture of where the starter is?
also, all at once? or did it try to start, etc? looking for clues.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 182
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From: Bowling Green Ky
starter is the least likely thing wrong. it is under passenger side. take a jumper wire with you, a couple feet long, jump from the small purple wire terminal on solenoid to the main positive cable, on starter, if solenoid clicks and engages flywheel, the prob is that no current is coming to solenoid. finding that root cause is going to take some checking. you have a service manual of some sort? you will need one.
I think the first check in the factory service manual is to check for voltage at that terminal on the solenoid. you can use a meter, but it is only hot with key in crank position. jumping it is quicker.
jc
I think the first check in the factory service manual is to check for voltage at that terminal on the solenoid. you can use a meter, but it is only hot with key in crank position. jumping it is quicker.
jc
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will need more info, year, trans type. no FSM or manual? first try your spare key, move shifter in neutral if it is auto back and forth slighty in case the safety switch is not making contact. if the starter solenoid is not clicking when in start, it is not being energized for a numer of possibles. can be VATS related.
also, all at once? or did it try to start, etc? looking for clues.
also, all at once? or did it try to start, etc? looking for clues.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2011
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starter is the least likely thing wrong. it is under passenger side. take a jumper wire with you, a couple feet long, jump from the small purple wire terminal on solenoid to the main positive cable, on starter, if solenoid clicks and engages flywheel, the prob is that no current is coming to solenoid. finding that root cause is going to take some checking. you have a service manual of some sort? you will need one.
I think the first check in the factory service manual is to check for voltage at that terminal on the solenoid. you can use a meter, but it is only hot with key in crank position. jumping it is quicker.
jc
I think the first check in the factory service manual is to check for voltage at that terminal on the solenoid. you can use a meter, but it is only hot with key in crank position. jumping it is quicker.
jc
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 838
Likes: 2
From: Louisville Ky
it's a '92 auto, i dont have a fsm or anything for it, i've tried both keys, i've moved the shifter back and forth, and for about a week or two it was taking a minute to start up if it was warm but then all of a sudden it just quit working all together on the same day that it last ran. I started it at some point that morning then that afternoon/evening it wouldn't start
if no 12v, trace back to neutral switch, under the console. if no 12v, go to start relay. try the ones mentioned first, in that order. rremember that these are only hot in START mode.
start relay is more complicated, and it will sort out a vats issue or ign switch.
if you had been cranking up to a minute, possible that the solenoid or starter have burned windings. I am assuming that your "nothing" means no click from solenoid, no relays under the dash, etc. to me, nothing is same as waving the key in the air.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 838
Likes: 2
From: Louisville Ky
sorry, no pictures. follow the exhaust pipes, passenger side, and there it is, wires and solenoid facing front.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
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before you get to crazy, get a resister the same value as the key and splice it into the two wires(yellow/yellowwhite?) in the knee panel, if it starts get a new ign switch, and key and make sure its the upgraded(longer) version
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
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From: Anaheim CA
When you turn the key to the start position you should hear the starter relay clicking (inside the instrument panel) and also the starter solenoid clicking (mounted to the starter). If neither of those things are happening, it's probably a VATS issue.
Tell us what you hear and we can proceed from there.
Tell us what you hear and we can proceed from there.
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When you turn the key to the start position you should hear the starter relay clicking (inside the instrument panel) and also the starter solenoid clicking (mounted to the starter). If neither of those things are happening, it's probably a VATS issue.
Tell us what you hear and we can proceed from there.
Tell us what you hear and we can proceed from there.
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Joined: Sep 2011
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yeah i did, i plan on doing all of that once i get back in town. out of curiosity, do you know of any cheap places to get a resistor? also what is the more reputable place to get the ignition switch with keys from? what is the "upgraded" version of ignition switches? and finally how do i find out the resistor value of my key? i know that's a lot of questions but as you can tell i'm relatively new to the corvette world
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 182
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From: Bowling Green Ky
my advice is to follow the FSM before you rip the vats apart. per the fsm, a "no crank, no click" root cause process goes to solenoid terminal first, then to neutral switch, then to starter relay, THEN to vats, or to ign switch. of course, trans has to be in park or neutral.
the fact that you were cranking for a minute says that heat could build up, terminals can build up high resistance. you don't want to work backwards to the fsm, my opinion.
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we're assuming the batery is ok, you said the electricals work. do the headlights work? if so the battery should at least click the relays and the starter solenoid. if the battery is low, the lights should dim when key is turned to start -unless the purple wire or solenoid terminal is dead.
my advice is to follow the FSM before you rip the vats apart. per the fsm, a "no crank, no click" root cause process goes to solenoid terminal first, then to neutral switch, then to starter relay, THEN to vats, or to ign switch. of course, trans has to be in park or neutral.
the fact that you were cranking for a minute says that heat could build up, terminals can build up high resistance. you don't want to work backwards to the fsm, my opinion.
my advice is to follow the FSM before you rip the vats apart. per the fsm, a "no crank, no click" root cause process goes to solenoid terminal first, then to neutral switch, then to starter relay, THEN to vats, or to ign switch. of course, trans has to be in park or neutral.
the fact that you were cranking for a minute says that heat could build up, terminals can build up high resistance. you don't want to work backwards to the fsm, my opinion.
i've been around cars and torn them apart and put em back together all my life and i know better than to hold it for more than a few seconds...and oh yeah as i said earlier i have no fsm or anything, but i am looking in to it so thanks for the steps from there
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,322
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From: Los Altos CA
yeah i did, i plan on doing all of that once i get back in town. out of curiosity, do you know of any cheap places to get a resistor? also what is the more reputable place to get the ignition switch with keys from? what is the "upgraded" version of ignition switches? and finally how do i find out the resistor value of my key? i know that's a lot of questions but as you can tell i'm relatively new to the corvette world
The ignition switch & key's can probably be purchased from the sponsor vendors, sorry I haven't researched this. I got my key from Amazon.com. I would be surprized if any ignition switches available now weren't the "upgraded" unit.
You can read the resistance of your key with an ohm-meter. If you have more than one key check them all. If any are significantly different that's a big clue. There are charts that will tell you which key to order based on the resistance you measure. You should be able to find one with the search function or ask and someone will post it eventually.
The FSM has diagnostic charts you can follow to diagnose this problem. Take it step by step.
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You can get resistors at Radio Shack or any electronics store that sells components (Frys, for example).
The ignition switch & key's can probably be purchased from the sponsor vendors, sorry I haven't researched this. I got my key from Amazon.com. I would be surprized if any ignition switches available now weren't the "upgraded" unit.
You can read the resistance of your key with an ohm-meter. If you have more than one key check them all. If any are significantly different that's a big clue. There are charts that will tell you which key to order based on the resistance you measure. You should be able to find one with the search function or ask and someone will post it eventually.
The FSM has diagnostic charts you can follow to diagnose this problem. Take it step by step.
The ignition switch & key's can probably be purchased from the sponsor vendors, sorry I haven't researched this. I got my key from Amazon.com. I would be surprized if any ignition switches available now weren't the "upgraded" unit.
You can read the resistance of your key with an ohm-meter. If you have more than one key check them all. If any are significantly different that's a big clue. There are charts that will tell you which key to order based on the resistance you measure. You should be able to find one with the search function or ask and someone will post it eventually.
The FSM has diagnostic charts you can follow to diagnose this problem. Take it step by step.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 379
Likes: 12
From: Huntsvegas AL
Is the security light steady or flashing when you attempt to start the car. That right there will tell you if the VATS is acting up.
If VATS is activated (i.e. computer "thinks" car is being stolen and thus deactivates engine), the security light will come on.
If the VATS correctly identifies your key, (I think) the security will not light on.
**TRY THIS** Put the shifter in (N)eutral and then try to start the car. Sounds to me your PRND safety switch might be outtta whack.
If VATS is activated (i.e. computer "thinks" car is being stolen and thus deactivates engine), the security light will come on.
If the VATS correctly identifies your key, (I think) the security will not light on.
**TRY THIS** Put the shifter in (N)eutral and then try to start the car. Sounds to me your PRND safety switch might be outtta whack.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2011
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Is the security light steady or flashing when you attempt to start the car. That right there will tell you if the VATS is acting up.
If VATS is activated (i.e. computer "thinks" car is being stolen and thus deactivates engine), the security light will come on.
If the VATS correctly identifies your key, (I think) the security will not light on.
**TRY THIS** Put the shifter in (N)eutral and then try to start the car. Sounds to me your PRND safety switch might be outtta whack.
If VATS is activated (i.e. computer "thinks" car is being stolen and thus deactivates engine), the security light will come on.
If the VATS correctly identifies your key, (I think) the security will not light on.
**TRY THIS** Put the shifter in (N)eutral and then try to start the car. Sounds to me your PRND safety switch might be outtta whack.