Help! It just won't start!
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: Bowling Green Ky
the battery is fine, i replaced the battery because i had a bad feeling about it when i bought it. EVERY electrical component works, except obviously it won't start. headlights, interior lights, radio, instrument panel, fan, seats, a/c, doors, windows, mirrors, rear hatch, i mean everything works. and just to be clear i did not literally mean i sat there holding the key in crank for a whole minute. i'm not not retarded 
i've been around cars and torn them apart and put em back together all my life and i know better than to hold it for more than a few seconds...and oh yeah as i said earlier i have no fsm or anything, but i am looking in to it so thanks for the steps from there
i've been around cars and torn them apart and put em back together all my life and i know better than to hold it for more than a few seconds...and oh yeah as i said earlier i have no fsm or anything, but i am looking in to it so thanks for the steps from there
(just joking!)I get the point. the battery has sufficient power!
the reader has NO idea what experience anyone has. I was just following the info you supplied, to suggest that it is possible that the solenoid and or starter has overheated.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
how can the a/c work if the engine doesn't start? (just joking!)
I get the point. the battery has sufficient power!
the reader has NO idea what experience anyone has. I was just following the info you supplied, to suggest that it is possible that the solenoid and or starter has overheated.
(just joking!)I get the point. the battery has sufficient power!
the reader has NO idea what experience anyone has. I was just following the info you supplied, to suggest that it is possible that the solenoid and or starter has overheated.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 995
Likes: 1
From: Naples Campania
No starter sound at all?
Close door, put key in, turn key to "ON". If "Security" light is lit or flashing, it's vats. I see that you used BOTH keys. It might be dealership time. Your ignition might be going bad.
If no "security" light, then it's your starter or positive CABLE. it can go bad. Check connections between battery and starter. If all good, it will probably be the starter.
Close door, put key in, turn key to "ON". If "Security" light is lit or flashing, it's vats. I see that you used BOTH keys. It might be dealership time. Your ignition might be going bad.
If no "security" light, then it's your starter or positive CABLE. it can go bad. Check connections between battery and starter. If all good, it will probably be the starter.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
yeah i did, i plan on doing all of that once i get back in town. out of curiosity, do you know of any cheap places to get a resistor? also what is the more reputable place to get the ignition switch with keys from? what is the "upgraded" version of ignition switches? and finally how do i find out the resistor value of my key? i know that's a lot of questions but as you can tell i'm relatively new to the corvette world
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 379
Likes: 12
From: Huntsvegas AL
yeah the security light will flash wheni open the door, then if i'm not mistaken it stays on when the key is in, i'll double check when i get back on monday but yeahi'm almost positive that it's a steady security light. also i tried the whole neutral thing and it didnt work but maybe that's because of VATS? where is the safety switch at?
Like oldalaskaman said, measure the resistance of the key pellet and find an equivalent resistance resistor at Radio Shack or similar. You will have to remove the drivers hush panel, the VATS circuit is the orange +white wires I believe. Just splice the resistor in where the connector to the column is.
Safety switch is mounted on the side of the shifter - you'll have to take the console apart to get to it. But thats not yer problem.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Well, with the security light on, you have a VATS issue. On my car, one of the VATS wires broke where it comes out of the ignition cylinder, all these years of wear and tear and it finally broke. With this wire broken, the CCM cant read the resistor in your key (circuit is open). Pic below may help
Like oldalaskaman said, measure the resistance of the key pellet and find an equivalent resistance resistor at Radio Shack or similar. You will have to remove the drivers hush panel, the VATS circuit is the orange +white wires I believe. Just splice the resistor in where the connector to the column is.
Safety switch is mounted on the side of the shifter - you'll have to take the console apart to get to it. But thats not yer problem.
Like oldalaskaman said, measure the resistance of the key pellet and find an equivalent resistance resistor at Radio Shack or similar. You will have to remove the drivers hush panel, the VATS circuit is the orange +white wires I believe. Just splice the resistor in where the connector to the column is.
Safety switch is mounted on the side of the shifter - you'll have to take the console apart to get to it. But thats not yer problem.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 379
Likes: 12
From: Huntsvegas AL
on my 91, they're ORANGE.
Also, be very careful - (at least for 91) the YELLOW sheathing is the airbag. The airbag harness should have warning tags on it. It also is routed towards the outside of the car, whereas the VATS harness is routed from the column to the centerline of the car - towards the CCM in the console.
Also, be very careful - (at least for 91) the YELLOW sheathing is the airbag. The airbag harness should have warning tags on it. It also is routed towards the outside of the car, whereas the VATS harness is routed from the column to the centerline of the car - towards the CCM in the console.
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Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
on my 91, they're ORANGE.
Also, be very careful - (at least for 91) the YELLOW sheathing is the airbag. The airbag harness should have warning tags on it. It also is routed towards the outside of the car, whereas the VATS harness is routed from the column to the centerline of the car - towards the CCM in the console.
Also, be very careful - (at least for 91) the YELLOW sheathing is the airbag. The airbag harness should have warning tags on it. It also is routed towards the outside of the car, whereas the VATS harness is routed from the column to the centerline of the car - towards the CCM in the console.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,322
Likes: 6
From: Los Altos CA
http://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system
By the way, if you buy a new ignition lock you will get new keys with a new resistor value & may have to go through some extra steps to get your ecm to recognize them.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,322
Likes: 6
From: Los Altos CA
No starter sound at all?
Close door, put key in, turn key to "ON". If "Security" light is lit or flashing, it's vats. I see that you used BOTH keys. It might be dealership time. Your ignition might be going bad.
If no "security" light, then it's your starter or positive CABLE. it can go bad. Check connections between battery and starter. If all good, it will probably be the starter.
Close door, put key in, turn key to "ON". If "Security" light is lit or flashing, it's vats. I see that you used BOTH keys. It might be dealership time. Your ignition might be going bad.
If no "security" light, then it's your starter or positive CABLE. it can go bad. Check connections between battery and starter. If all good, it will probably be the starter.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 379
Likes: 12
From: Huntsvegas AL
Good point - The lock cylinder I bought just had a regular key (no pellet). I had a locksmith re-key the cylinder to my existing ingnition keys.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Ok well new development, I haven't been able to do much with it lately bc of work but I went out to check all the things that were mentioned and now absolutely no electricity is flowing at all. Now I am at a complete loss, I can't run a diagnostics, I can't drive it to a shop, I don't know what to do
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,830
Likes: 3
From: Granada Hills CA
Ok well new development, I haven't been able to do much with it lately bc of work but I went out to check all the things that were mentioned and now absolutely no electricity is flowing at all. Now I am at a complete loss, I can't run a diagnostics, I can't drive it to a shop, I don't know what to do
My guess would be a free AAA tow to a shop. If you are not able to troubleshoot the correct way chances are you will spend for unnecessary parts. JMHO
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 838
Likes: 2
From: Louisville Ky
Ok well new development, I haven't been able to do much with it lately bc of work but I went out to check all the things that were mentioned and now absolutely no electricity is flowing at all. Now I am at a complete loss, I can't run a diagnostics, I can't drive it to a shop, I don't know what to do
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 4
From: Argillite KY
What number was on the key blank punch outs. That will tell you what resistors to get at Radio Shack. Use this chart to help. Key blanks numbered from 1 to 15. Yours should be one of those numbers.
When you get the number just compare it to the chart above. All tolerances will be 2% so all you have to do is get close. Give me the number off the key punch out and I'll give you a Radio shack shopping list. Be prepared to spend about $2.00.
After I give you the resistors you'll need go under the dash panel and find that orange wire with two wires inside it. You're going to cut it and splice the resistors into the wires that do not go to the steering column.
Once you do that it will start if it's VATS related...and I think it is. Check your PM's.
Good luck.
This chart is for any GM product, Buick, Cadillac, Oldsombile, Chevrolet, and Pontiac that has a VATS key (single or double-sided.)
VATS # (K)OHMS (Set your meter to the 20k ohm setting)
1———— 0.402
2———— 0.523
3———— 0.681
4————-0.887
5————-1.130
6————-1.470
7————-1.870
8————-2.370
9————-3.010
10————3.740
11————4.750
12————6.040
13————7.500
14————9.530
15————11.801
VATS # (K)OHMS (Set your meter to the 20k ohm setting)
1———— 0.402
2———— 0.523
3———— 0.681
4————-0.887
5————-1.130
6————-1.470
7————-1.870
8————-2.370
9————-3.010
10————3.740
11————4.750
12————6.040
13————7.500
14————9.530
15————11.801
After I give you the resistors you'll need go under the dash panel and find that orange wire with two wires inside it. You're going to cut it and splice the resistors into the wires that do not go to the steering column.
Once you do that it will start if it's VATS related...and I think it is. Check your PM's.
Good luck.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,178
Likes: 15
From: Montreal Quebec
No starter sound at all?
Close door, put key in, turn key to "ON". If "Security" light is lit or flashing, it's vats. I see that you used BOTH keys. It might be dealership time. Your ignition might be going bad.
If no "security" light, then it's your starter or positive CABLE. it can go bad. Check connections between battery and starter. If all good, it will probably be the starter.
Close door, put key in, turn key to "ON". If "Security" light is lit or flashing, it's vats. I see that you used BOTH keys. It might be dealership time. Your ignition might be going bad.
If no "security" light, then it's your starter or positive CABLE. it can go bad. Check connections between battery and starter. If all good, it will probably be the starter.
If there is a steady security it's a vats problem...
Need an update
