When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just bought my first Vette(1986 Yellow Convertible). I new it had some problems when I bought it. It ran very rich, missed bad and backfired. Brought it home and did a basic tune up. Found that the rotor had the metal melted to the plastic. Put nrw injectors in it. Also put it on a scanner and read MAF sensor bad. Put new Maf in it, new IAC. Started it up and ran ok for a couple of minutes then started running rich,missing bad and backfiring. Then it would not idle unless I diconnected the MAF sensor. It idled then but still ran horrible. Somtimes when I start it would rev to high rpms stay there for a couple seconds before slowly comming back down and stalling. Getting frustrated, any help would be greatly appreciated. Could it possibly be the ecm I checked and it has the original in it.
I just bought my first Vette(1986 Yellow Convertible). I new it had some problems when I bought it. It ran very rich, missed bad and backfired. Brought it home and did a basic tune up. Found that the rotor had the metal melted to the plastic. Put nrw injectors in it. Also put it on a scanner and read MAF sensor bad. Put new Maf in it, new IAC. Started it up and ran ok for a couple of minutes then started running rich,missing bad and backfiring. Then it would not idle unless I diconnected the MAF sensor. It idled then but still ran horrible. Somtimes when I start it would rev to high rpms stay there for a couple seconds before slowly comming back down and stalling. Getting frustrated, any help would be greatly appreciated. Could it possibly be the ecm I checked and it has the original in it.
checked codes?
coolant temp sensor can cause rich condition. 14 or 15 I believe. but not backfiring. that sounds like timing, or plug wire issue. is it thru intake or in the exhaust system?
fuel pressur regulator can leak into the vac line which comes from plenum, I think would show as rich condition too.
start with codes and get back.
jc
you set the TPS I assume, if you replaced iac. affects idle but not rich.
Last edited by stoydido; Sep 6, 2011 at 11:22 AM.
Reason: spell
Backfiring thru intake. Set timing. No fuel in regulator vacumj. Did not reset iac. Showing no codes. I did find a broken plastic vacum line near firewall on drivers side, cant find where it goes.
Backfiring thru intake. Set timing. No fuel in regulator vacumj. Did not reset iac. Showing no codes. I did find a broken plastic vacum line near firewall on drivers side, cant find where it goes.
may be an accumulator line that serves several lines, one is from the vac cannister, also serves the MAP on 91 models, your version of MAF, maybe the fuel reg also. definitely need to find the other end of it which will be a leak source.
that can explain the idle issue, possibly the backfire if intake gets leaned out, may be wrong there, as the o2 sensors would try to compensate.
might wind up rich.
these c4's can get complicated! a struggle just to hold stuff in your brain.
may be an accumulator line that serves several lines, one is from the vac cannister, also serves the MAP on 91 models, your version of MAF, maybe the fuel reg also. definitely need to find the other end of it which will be a leak source.
that can explain the idle issue, possibly the backfire if intake gets leaned out, may be wrong there, as the o2 sensors would try to compensate.
might wind up rich.
these c4's can get complicated! a struggle just to hold stuff in your brain.
did it ever run ok after injectors installed?
It ran better right after I installed injectors but for only 5 minutes. The main radiator fan has not been working but today I jumpered A&B on the ecm diagnostic plug turned on the key to check codes and the fan started running.
It ran better right after I installed injectors but for only 5 minutes. The main radiator fan has not been working but today I jumpered A&B on the ecm diagnostic plug turned on the key to check codes and the fan started running.
the fan only comes on at 248* or so, or until you jumper it as you did.
before the ecm I would find backfiring as ign issues, crossed wires, arcing in dist cap, whatever. or lean air/fuel mix.
have to locate the missing vac line, because it won't run well without it connected. I am not familiar with the 86 enough to suggest what to look for. other than check the ones you removed in the inj change.
the fan only comes on at 248* or so, or until you jumper it as you did.
before the ecm I would find backfiring as ign issues, crossed wires, arcing in dist cap, whatever. or lean air/fuel mix.
have to locate the missing vac line, because it won't run well without it connected. I am not familiar with the 86 enough to suggest what to look for. other than check the ones you removed in the inj change.
248 degrees is about 30 degrees higher that what the motor is programmed for. The vacuum hose goes to the hvac controls on the dash. The motor end can be plugged (if it's not already).
I took pictures of the vacum lines before replacing the injectors. I have them in the right place. I found this one after. Im thinking it may be the cruise control line.
248 degrees is about 30 degrees higher that what the motor is programmed for. The vacuum hose goes to the hvac controls on the dash. The motor end can be plugged (if it's not already).
I did plug it. Could it be the ignition coil causing it to backfire and not idle. I noticed a screw missing on the cover today and noticed some rust on the metal plate surrounding it.
I did plug it. Could it be the ignition coil causing it to backfire and not idle. I noticed a screw missing on the cover today and noticed some rust on the metal plate surrounding it.
I missed something, cop 151. you replace iac? you did reset it, correct?
the issues are rich, not idling, backfire. not sure the coil is the first place to look for either of those. don't see how we can ignore the iac.
Could a bad battery
Have anything to do with my problems?
only by adding another problem to the several you have.
it starts, alternator resupplies voltage, starts again.
that's all the battery is expected to do. the engine should run fine with battery disconnected.
coolant temp sensor can fail, if reading is -49* the ecm will add fuel, engine runs rich. generally, code 14 would set.
it has to be adjusted. no fsm or haynes? there is a documented procedure on the "sticky's" on discussions forum. check it out. I am almost certain the engine will not idle without it being set.
*** we are talkin' Idle Air Control, not ICM, engine module. correct?
Last edited by joe paco; Sep 6, 2011 at 06:55 PM.
Reason: add***
only by adding another problem to the several you have.
it starts, alternator resupplies voltage, starts again.
that's all the battery is expected to do. the engine should run fine with battery disconnected.
coolant temp sensor can fail, if reading is -49* the ecm will add fuel, engine runs rich. generally, code 14 would set.
I have not checked it. I will thanks for the help. Would it cause the engine to overheat if bad?
it has to be adjusted. no fsm or haynes? there is a documented procedure on the "sticky's" on discussions forum. check it out. I am almost certain the engine will not idle without it being set.
*** we are talkin' Idle Air Control, not ICM, engine module. correct?
Yes the IAC. Just bought a Haynes going to try and reset thanks.
I have not checked it. I will thanks for the help. Would it cause the engine to overheat if bad?
no. if it is not setting a code, it SHOULD be fine, not sure how to check it and it is NOT easy to get to.
the IAC is simple with the haynes, that may cure the idle issue. I would verify all the ign parts if it was mine, wiring, plug wires, if it runs, the module and pickup coil are ok.