C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Help engine problems!

Old Sep 6, 2011 | 10:58 AM
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From: Seymour Tn
Default Help engine problems!

I just bought my first Vette(1986 Yellow Convertible). I new it had some problems when I bought it. It ran very rich, missed bad and backfired. Brought it home and did a basic tune up. Found that the rotor had the metal melted to the plastic. Put nrw injectors in it. Also put it on a scanner and read MAF sensor bad. Put new Maf in it, new IAC. Started it up and ran ok for a couple of minutes then started running rich,missing bad and backfiring. Then it would not idle unless I diconnected the MAF sensor. It idled then but still ran horrible. Somtimes when I start it would rev to high rpms stay there for a couple seconds before slowly comming back down and stalling. Getting frustrated, any help would be greatly appreciated. Could it possibly be the ecm I checked and it has the original in it.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by cop151
I just bought my first Vette(1986 Yellow Convertible). I new it had some problems when I bought it. It ran very rich, missed bad and backfired. Brought it home and did a basic tune up. Found that the rotor had the metal melted to the plastic. Put nrw injectors in it. Also put it on a scanner and read MAF sensor bad. Put new Maf in it, new IAC. Started it up and ran ok for a couple of minutes then started running rich,missing bad and backfiring. Then it would not idle unless I diconnected the MAF sensor. It idled then but still ran horrible. Somtimes when I start it would rev to high rpms stay there for a couple seconds before slowly comming back down and stalling. Getting frustrated, any help would be greatly appreciated. Could it possibly be the ecm I checked and it has the original in it.
checked codes?
coolant temp sensor can cause rich condition. 14 or 15 I believe. but not backfiring. that sounds like timing, or plug wire issue. is it thru intake or in the exhaust system?

fuel pressur regulator can leak into the vac line which comes from plenum, I think would show as rich condition too.

start with codes and get back.

jc
you set the TPS I assume, if you replaced iac. affects idle but not rich.

Last edited by stoydido; Sep 6, 2011 at 11:22 AM. Reason: spell
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 11:55 AM
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Backfiring thru intake. Set timing. No fuel in regulator vacumj. Did not reset iac. Showing no codes. I did find a broken plastic vacum line near firewall on drivers side, cant find where it goes.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by cop151
Backfiring thru intake. Set timing. No fuel in regulator vacumj. Did not reset iac. Showing no codes. I did find a broken plastic vacum line near firewall on drivers side, cant find where it goes.
may be an accumulator line that serves several lines, one is from the vac cannister, also serves the MAP on 91 models, your version of MAF, maybe the fuel reg also. definitely need to find the other end of it which will be a leak source.

that can explain the idle issue, possibly the backfire if intake gets leaned out, may be wrong there, as the o2 sensors would try to compensate.
might wind up rich.

these c4's can get complicated! a struggle just to hold stuff in your brain.

did it ever run ok after injectors installed?
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by stoydido
may be an accumulator line that serves several lines, one is from the vac cannister, also serves the MAP on 91 models, your version of MAF, maybe the fuel reg also. definitely need to find the other end of it which will be a leak source.

that can explain the idle issue, possibly the backfire if intake gets leaned out, may be wrong there, as the o2 sensors would try to compensate.
might wind up rich.

these c4's can get complicated! a struggle just to hold stuff in your brain.

did it ever run ok after injectors installed?
It ran better right after I installed injectors but for only 5 minutes. The main radiator fan has not been working but today I jumpered A&B on the ecm diagnostic plug turned on the key to check codes and the fan started running.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by cop151
It ran better right after I installed injectors but for only 5 minutes. The main radiator fan has not been working but today I jumpered A&B on the ecm diagnostic plug turned on the key to check codes and the fan started running.
the fan only comes on at 248* or so, or until you jumper it as you did.

before the ecm I would find backfiring as ign issues, crossed wires, arcing in dist cap, whatever. or lean air/fuel mix.

have to locate the missing vac line, because it won't run well without it connected. I am not familiar with the 86 enough to suggest what to look for. other than check the ones you removed in the inj change.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by joe paco
the fan only comes on at 248* or so, or until you jumper it as you did.

before the ecm I would find backfiring as ign issues, crossed wires, arcing in dist cap, whatever. or lean air/fuel mix.

have to locate the missing vac line, because it won't run well without it connected. I am not familiar with the 86 enough to suggest what to look for. other than check the ones you removed in the inj change.
248 degrees is about 30 degrees higher that what the motor is programmed for. The vacuum hose goes to the hvac controls on the dash. The motor end can be plugged (if it's not already).
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 05:01 PM
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I took pictures of the vacum lines before replacing the injectors. I have them in the right place. I found this one after. Im thinking it may be the cruise control line.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
248 degrees is about 30 degrees higher that what the motor is programmed for. The vacuum hose goes to the hvac controls on the dash. The motor end can be plugged (if it's not already).
I did plug it. Could it be the ignition coil causing it to backfire and not idle. I noticed a screw missing on the cover today and noticed some rust on the metal plate surrounding it.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 05:27 PM
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Main fan should come on around 228*. This varies slightly in some years.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by cop151
I did plug it. Could it be the ignition coil causing it to backfire and not idle. I noticed a screw missing on the cover today and noticed some rust on the metal plate surrounding it.
I missed something, cop 151. you replace iac? you did reset it, correct?

the issues are rich, not idling, backfire. not sure the coil is the first place to look for either of those. don't see how we can ignore the iac.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 05:56 PM
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also, unless you marked/numbered the dist ends of your wires, it is possible one is crossed. happens a lot.

another also, plugging a vac hose is fine IF it is the end that goes to the vac source.

it is so easy to overlook some little thing so I have to mention them. the backfire look like ign, timing, whatever. spark fires while intake is open.

joe
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by joe paco
also, unless you marked/numbered the dist ends of your wires, it is possible one is crossed. happens a lot.

another also, plugging a vac hose is fine IF it is the end that goes to the vac source.

it is so easy to overlook some little thing so I have to mention them. the backfire look like ign, timing, whatever. spark fires while intake is open

joe
Could a bad battery
Have anything to do with my problems?
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by joe paco
I missed something, cop 151. you replace iac? you did reset it, correct?

the issues are rich, not idling, backfire. not sure the coil is the first place to look for either of those. don't see how we can ignore the iac.
No I didnt reset it. Not sure how to.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by cop151
Could a bad battery
Have anything to do with my problems?
only by adding another problem to the several you have.

it starts, alternator resupplies voltage, starts again.
that's all the battery is expected to do. the engine should run fine with battery disconnected.

coolant temp sensor can fail, if reading is -49* the ecm will add fuel, engine runs rich. generally, code 14 would set.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cop151
No I didnt reset it. Not sure how to.
it has to be adjusted. no fsm or haynes? there is a documented procedure on the "sticky's" on discussions forum. check it out. I am almost certain the engine will not idle without it being set.


*** we are talkin' Idle Air Control, not ICM, engine module. correct?

Last edited by joe paco; Sep 6, 2011 at 06:55 PM. Reason: add***
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by joe paco
only by adding another problem to the several you have.

it starts, alternator resupplies voltage, starts again.
that's all the battery is expected to do. the engine should run fine with battery disconnected.

coolant temp sensor can fail, if reading is -49* the ecm will add fuel, engine runs rich. generally, code 14 would set.
I have not checked it. I will thanks for the help. Would it cause the engine to overheat if bad?
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by joe paco
it has to be adjusted. no fsm or haynes? there is a documented procedure on the "sticky's" on discussions forum. check it out. I am almost certain the engine will not idle without it being set.


*** we are talkin' Idle Air Control, not ICM, engine module. correct?
Yes the IAC. Just bought a Haynes going to try and reset thanks.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cop151
I have not checked it. I will thanks for the help. Would it cause the engine to overheat if bad?
It is not showing any codes.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by cop151
I have not checked it. I will thanks for the help. Would it cause the engine to overheat if bad?
no. if it is not setting a code, it SHOULD be fine, not sure how to check it and it is NOT easy to get to.

the IAC is simple with the haynes, that may cure the idle issue. I would verify all the ign parts if it was mine, wiring, plug wires, if it runs, the module and pickup coil are ok.
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