C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1996 C4 Engine Removal

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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 04:06 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007
- Remove the exhaust from aft of the cats and back
- Remove the transmission while supporting the engine
- With the transmission out, tilt the engine back and remove the bolts in question.
- Remove the cats from the exhaust manifolds
I am in the process of pulling my LT1/4L60E out of my 95 Vette. Can I tilt the engine enough to get to the bolts on each side of the tranny with a socket and extesnsions? Other than those two pita bolts everything elso looks pretty easy to get to.
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by aminnich
I am in the process of pulling my LT1/4L60E out of my 95 Vette. Can I tilt the engine enough to get to the bolts on each side of the tranny with a socket and extesnsions? Other than those two pita bolts everything elso looks pretty easy to get to.
Auto? If so you can reach them with the proper lentgh of extensions and a 9/16 wobble socket with out tilting the engine. If I recall correctly about 30" worth to get the top two. Sneak up along side of the trans.
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by aminnich
I am in the process of pulling my LT1/4L60E out of my 95 Vette. Can I tilt the engine enough to get to the bolts on each side of the tranny with a socket and extesnsions? Other than those two pita bolts everything elso looks pretty easy to get to.
Yes. You'll need a universal in addition to the socket and extension or a socket with an integrated universal.

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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 04:14 PM
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96GS#007 I hadn't planned on taking the transmission out. Is that the normal procedure or is that how to get unstuck?

My first engine pull is starting to be more than I bargained for.

One question that didn't get answered is: Does the bracket have to come off?
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 04:14 PM
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Btw....When you guys are tilting the engine back, be sure to watch the clearance with the firewall...or the engine will "self-clearance" the firewall for you
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007
Btw....When you guys are tilting the engine back, be sure to watch the clearance with the firewall...or the engine will "self-clearance" the firewall for you
And the wiper motor
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawk73ku
96GS#007 I hadn't planned on taking the transmission out. Is that the normal procedure or is that how to get unstuck?

My first engine pull is starting to be more than I bargained for.

One question that didn't get answered is: Does the bracket have to come off?
Unless you remove the hood, you have to drop the transmission in order to get the engine out the side. Waaaaaaaaaaaaay easier to remove the transmission than the hood...not to mention trying to re-install the hood and get it properly aligned again.

The brackets are held in place by the bellhousing bolts. With the transmission out, the brackets will stay on the cats. No need to mess with the rusted studs.
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 04:23 PM
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I love these threads.... brings back fond memories (sarcasm)

Here's a couple shots of mine coming out before the rebuild and a close up of the Hooker
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 04:54 PM
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96GS#007 Ignorance on my part but the very first thing I did was remove the hood so I guess that will be a fun event when reassembling. I actually thought the hood removal was easy and was able to do it by myself with the help of the engine hoist. Straps to the latch pins and lift in the center.

Having said that it sounds like I still need to drop the transmission. Is that correct?
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawk73ku
My first engine pull is starting to be more than I bargained for.
You will see the savings at the end. $80-$100 an hour is what a mechanic in California charges. One more thing, no-one on this earth cares about you but you like you.
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 05:42 PM
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[QUOTE=Hawk73ku;

Having said that it sounds like I still need to drop the transmission. Is that correct?[/QUOTE]

Maybe I missed it ....Manual or Auto Trans ?
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 06:27 PM
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I have an automatic. Never thought about it but it would definitely be easy to drop a manual.
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawk73ku
I have an automatic. Never thought about it but it would definitely be easy to drop a manual.
Didn't need to remove the hood but what is done is done.
When you Have the hoist hooked to the engine and everything is unbolted (Trans, torque converter,etc...double check) use your jack under the trans pan with a piece of plywood to protect the trans pan,give the jackaslight pump up to "crack" the trans away from the block. you will know when it is free.
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 07:30 PM
  #34  
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Nutz4C4: Thanks. I'm still not clear about the CAT brackets and the transmission. 96GS#007 suggested dropping the transmission to get the CAT brackets out of the way but in the same thought said the reason was so the hood doesn't have to be taken off. Despite the fact I took the hood off is it still the best to proceed by dropping the automatic transmission?
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 03:38 PM
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You don't have to drop the transmission or remove the hood. Just loosen the front C beam bolts(don't remove) so you will have play in the tranny to separate it from the engine. You can take it out the side no problem.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 10:52 PM
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Well I got the driver side CAT out by getting a torch to the studs that marry the tail pipe to the flange to the CAT and used vice grips to wrestle it loose. I thought ALLELUIA only to discover the passenger side cat pipe appears to be fused to the exhaust manifold and I can't get it to budge with a bar. Make matters worse the CAT is welded to the tail pipe. I presume that isn't normal and the previous owner must have had some work done on it.

In any event I'm not sure how I'm going to free that sucker. I guess I'll try the blow torch again and see if I can get enough thermal expansion to pry it loose.

I sure hope this is the worst of it.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawk73ku
I'm not sure how I'm going to free that sucker.


You can find them at Harbor Freight Tools for $39.99
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 12:58 AM
  #38  
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[QUOTE Here's a couple shots of mine coming out before the rebuild and a close up of the Hooker[/QUOTE]

Thats the BEFORE shot ????
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawk73ku
Nutz4C4: Thanks. I'm still not clear about the CAT brackets and the transmission. 96GS#007 suggested dropping the transmission to get the CAT brackets out of the way but in the same thought said the reason was so the hood doesn't have to be taken off. Despite the fact I took the hood off is it still the best to proceed by dropping the automatic transmission?
Sorry for the late reply. The guys that are removing the trans have standards. They need the room as the motor has to clear the standard trans input shaft.No need to remove your trans.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 10:19 PM
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Nutz4C4 - Thanks for the response. 93VettePilot also posted and said the same. But no worry as I've been having fun with those CAT brackets for a couple days now as I'm not equipped for the daunting challenge. Anyway I plan to put some thought into redesigning them to facilitate future removal.
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