1994 convertible hatch release
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 166
Likes: 1
1994 convertible hatch release
Just wanted to share this with all of you the other day I used my rear convertible hatch button on the hatch and middle console. Neither switch would work. I checked the fuse it was OK then read some post on this. The post refered to the relay located behind the passenger seat in the rear compartment well I found a relay but it wasnt the right one so I dont know were that relay is located but I check the fuses again there is a that is a 25 amp for the hatch well I had a 10 amp in it and it kept blowing put the 25 in it and its work fine. So just wanted to stay it is important to put the proper rated fuses in their place.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 995
Likes: 1
From: Naples Campania
Having a higher rated fuse than normal in there won't stop it from working, but will allow the device to use more amps. It's not stopping you from opening the hatch, but it's an indication of a slightly more... difficult problem.
The hatch selanoid is basically a coil of wire like on an electric motor. When you hit the button, it charges the coil and moves a lever that allows the hatch to open. When these start to go bad, the resistance of the device goes down. If resistance goes down, amps go up. You were blowing your 10 amp fuse because the selinoid was going bad and drawing amps. It's probably blown now. Get to the selanoid and put a multimeter on the connector. Then, press the button and watch the multimeter. If you see voltage, than your selanoid is bad.
The P/N for it is C4-RHS-8496. Here is one at Corvette Salvage. A little pricey, but you can check fleabay too.
The hatch selanoid is basically a coil of wire like on an electric motor. When you hit the button, it charges the coil and moves a lever that allows the hatch to open. When these start to go bad, the resistance of the device goes down. If resistance goes down, amps go up. You were blowing your 10 amp fuse because the selinoid was going bad and drawing amps. It's probably blown now. Get to the selanoid and put a multimeter on the connector. Then, press the button and watch the multimeter. If you see voltage, than your selanoid is bad.
The P/N for it is C4-RHS-8496. Here is one at Corvette Salvage. A little pricey, but you can check fleabay too.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,620
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
Having a higher rated fuse than normal in there won't stop it from working, but will allow the device to use more amps. It's not stopping you from opening the hatch, but it's an indication of a slightly more... difficult problem.
The hatch selanoid is basically a coil of wire like on an electric motor. When you hit the button, it charges the coil and moves a lever that allows the hatch to open. When these start to go bad, the resistance of the device goes down. If resistance goes down, amps go up. You were blowing your 10 amp fuse because the selinoid was going bad and drawing amps. It's probably blown now. Get to the selanoid and put a multimeter on the connector. Then, press the button and watch the multimeter. If you see voltage, than your selanoid is bad.
The P/N for it is C4-RHS-8496. Here is one at Corvette Salvage. A little pricey, but you can check fleabay too.
The hatch selanoid is basically a coil of wire like on an electric motor. When you hit the button, it charges the coil and moves a lever that allows the hatch to open. When these start to go bad, the resistance of the device goes down. If resistance goes down, amps go up. You were blowing your 10 amp fuse because the selinoid was going bad and drawing amps. It's probably blown now. Get to the selanoid and put a multimeter on the connector. Then, press the button and watch the multimeter. If you see voltage, than your selanoid is bad.
The P/N for it is C4-RHS-8496. Here is one at Corvette Salvage. A little pricey, but you can check fleabay too.
The hatch fuse calls for a 25 amp. Using a 10 amp which is less than half the rated value called for, I would expect the fuse to blow. The fuse powers the solenoid for the hatch release and the coil for the hatch relay. Most of the current goes to the hatch solenoid and a small portion (maybe less than 1/2 amp) goes to the hatch relays coil. If it is working with the 25 amp, then all is good and it's working properly.
