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And if they do come off, first they make a big banging noise that makes you wear out your BVD's in a few seconds and when they hit the ground they can turn 90 degrees, accelerate past your car and it will be well in front of you, spinning wildly trying to get traction heading for the side of the road as you pass it. You will be confused and wonder what the heck it was for a few minutes. Go ahead, ask me how I know
What they normally do (in street driving) is walk back & grind a hole in your timing cover, causing wierd noises & oil leaks. Look between the balancer & the crank pulley, if you see a gap (1/4" or more) then the balancer is slipping. These sbc have fairly heavy balancers & any quick engine deceleration, like hooking up hard, could make an old balancer slip.
Guys: I think i may have a slipping balancer. I am getting pinging when revving the engine after re-setting the timing. I had to do this recently when I put new plug wires on. The rotor was 180* off and the plug wires were a mess. Anyway, all is well with the wires and rotor, but I am struggling with timing. The car fired immediately and ran well just off my reference marks I made when pulling the distributor. Anyway, it runs more roughly/slowly as I advance it to 6 BTDC. It ran smoothly/faster at an indicated zero degrees on the timing mark. Due to the direction of balancer rotation, I assume the slipping (if that's what is happening) would produce a too-much advanced scenario even if it showed only a few degrees of advance.
So how do you time it by ear? (Yes I will replace the balancer!) Do you just get it to where it's smooth and happy? Ideas please!
You cannot really tune by ear, but you can tell if the balancer has slipped by using an air compresser to identify BDC which can then be used to find TDC. Pull off the rocker arms on cylinder (#4, 6, or 7 whichever cylinder is easier to reach) so the valves will not open and bleed off pressure. Connect your air compresser to whichever cylinder you have choosen and set it at 100 PSI or higher and this will push the piston down to BDC. Mark the balancer at the zero position on the timing tab, this position should be 0 degrees. Now compare the marked zero position on the balancer to your scribed position on the balancer, they should be the same, if not you can measure the difference and that is your balancer slip. Once you identify the true zero you can at least set base timing.
If they are not the same you should replace the balancer because it will eventually fail causing all kinds of problems.
[QUOTE]Now compare the marked zero position on the balancer to your scribed position on the balancer[QUOTE]
Almost. There is a dwell on TDC and BDC of several degrees where the piston is down. You can rotate the crank back and forth at BDC and the piston height will not change. This would be caused by clearances. That way will get you close but as far as knowing your balancer hasn't spun, no cigar.
[QUOTE=1963SS;1578675177][QUOTE]Now compare the marked zero position on the balancer to your scribed position on the balancer
Almost. There is a dwell on TDC and BDC of several degrees where the piston is down. You can rotate the crank back and forth at BDC and the piston height will not change. This would be caused by clearances. That way will get you close but as far as knowing your balancer hasn't spun, no cigar.
I agree that there is some float but it is really close and can identify if you have any gross errors like a spun balancer. I have used this method many times expecially on LT1's to determine actual TDC since they have no timing pointer. The float around the bottom with 100 PSI is much tigher then you would expect, maybe 1 degree plus or minus.
[QUOTE=1963SS;1578675177][QUOTE]Now compare the marked zero position on the balancer to your scribed position on the balancer
Almost. There is a dwell on TDC and BDC of several degrees where the piston is down. You can rotate the crank back and forth at BDC and the piston height will not change. This would be caused by clearances. That way will get you close but as far as knowing your balancer hasn't spun, no cigar.
Now compare the marked zero position on the balancer to your scribed position on the balancer
I agree that there is some float but it is really close and can identify if you have any gross errors like a spun balancer. I have used this method many times expecially on LT1's to determine actual TDC since they have no timing pointer. The float around the bottom with 100 PSI is much tigher then you would expect, maybe 1 degree plus or minus.
This is why I said the op could get a "ballpark" idea of tdc. Once he gets a fair idea of tdc then he could look at where the timing marks are situated. If the ring has slipped so much that it causes the engine to run like he said when the timing is set at 6* then the amount of slippage would be very plain to see. Without being right there I would bet IF the ring has slipped it is at least 10* or more off. Since he has not posted back we are just farting into the wind.
Almost. There is a dwell on TDC and BDC of several degrees where the piston is down. You can rotate the crank back and forth at BDC and the piston height will not change. This would be caused by clearances. That way will get you close but as far as knowing your balancer hasn't spun, no cigar.
Exactly! You'll find TDC right in the middle of that dwell
I had a stock balancer sealing ring come apart on a previous C4 L98 that I had...
I kept hearing this weird dinging noise....what was so strange was that I heard it for several seconds AFTER shut down......
Finally having driven me near insane, I had the hood up, got someone else to start the car while I looked. Saw nothing but was sure I heard something..
Had my assistant shut it off and sure as hell theres the noise ! almost like the 2 stroke noise.. ring ding ding ding..!
I got lucky and happened to look at the balancer about 3 or 4 seconds after shut down and saw the outer ring spinning like mad...
The rubber seal/binding ring had degraded and allowed the inner and outer rings to spin on what was left of the seal. Weirdest thing I ever had happen. If you look closely at the seal, you can see it cracking and uneven on the balancer ring. That shows that its trying to come apart, and it eventually WILL>
Hold onto your hats... But I set the timing in the sweet spot without the light. I estimate that I retarded the timing back by about 6-8 degrees without the ignition wire connected and got a smooth idle with the engine warm. I suppose I was using a range of about 15-20 degrees back and forth total until I zeroed it in on the spot that sounded best. No detonation. I drove it and it behaved just like before I decided to reset the dist to get my wiring correct. It responded instantly to throttle input. I don't know if that smooth central spot is where you'd have some advance on the timing or right at zero. (my guess is that it's probably a few degrees of advance) I was hoping someone might take a stab at that along the way but I just got all kinds of screams not to do this without a light, etc. Yes..I plan to get a new balancer. Mine is off by apparently 6 degrees or so. There is some slight rubber bulging. It's flush with the center hub section and is not walking around. It looks pretty nice except for the rust. My pointer is perfectly straight and not part of the issue. I promise I won't drive it until I get a new balancer. But you CAN get close by ear.
Hate to put this out there in case someone tries it and has an issue but when its at the fact. timing it will seem a little retarded ie sounds like its idling lower/rougher than it should be. Try taking a little more out
Yes, you can and I have, many times in my drag racing days but only as a bandaid until I could get a light on it to be sure. Once, when I was 16 and knew no better I found that when I advanced the timing without a light until I liked the way the engine ran I was rewarded for my stupidity with a dime sized hole melted through the top of the piston. With our cars having everything electronically controlled it's a lot more iffy. We had no idea you were not going to be driving the car as usual so we gave our advice accordingly. Glad you found for sure the ring has slipped, now you can get it replaced and get back to driving the car.
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[QUOTE=1963SS;1578675177][QUOTE]Now compare the marked zero position on the balancer to your scribed position on the balancer
Almost. There is a dwell on TDC and BDC of several degrees where the piston is down. You can rotate the crank back and forth at BDC and the piston height will not change. This would be caused by clearances. That way will get you close but as far as knowing your balancer hasn't spun, no cigar.
If you use a TDC indicator/finder that "dwell" is not an issue.
If you use a TDC indicator/finder that "dwell" is not an issue
Exactly. That's why I said to use a degree wheel and a piston stop. I have set many by ear but that was back in the day when it was easier. Find a hill. Climb the hill with the engine knocking. Retard the timing until the knocking stops. That's max advance. Of course I'm a little bit old school......at least.
Now compare the marked zero position on the balancer to your scribed position on the balancer
If you use a TDC indicator/finder that "dwell" is not an issue.
Most SBC heads that I see do not have full thread spark plug holes so you cannot get the piston stop in to use it as intended. Another problem with the TDC inicator is it is very easy to bend if it does go in since it almost pependicular to the piston face.
Cool. I guess I'll just throw the one that I've been using on SBC's for the past 30 years or so in the trash. I guess I only thought it worked. My mistake.
Setting by ear was a lot easier in the old days without ESC for sure. You set it at "just before ping" at max load, and called it good. It was almost irrelevant as to where the timing ended up at idle. If this was a problem, you had to file out the slots in the advance plate (or make the slots shorter somehow). I guess it would be hard to see 6 degrees of slippage by a rough guestimate of TDC. Congrats OP on dialing it in to your satisfaction. We were trying to help you get there faster.
Cool. I guess I'll just throw the one that I've been using on SBC's for the past 30 years or so in the trash. I guess I only thought it worked. My mistake.
I am just pointing out that the piston stop does not work in all applications and if it does not work you can always use the compressed air method. I am not attempting to belittle your input.