C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

C4 PEK and IGN KEY

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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 11:12 PM
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Default C4 PEK and IGN KEY

Help please! I dropped my '96 C4 PEK Key fob onto a tile floor and it literally shattered into many, many pieces. The ignition key was on the fob. I super-glued the pieces of the fob together and it actually works, or at least locks and unlocks the doors. I tried starting the car today and nothing! No clicks or sound of starter engaging and the battery is good and fully charged. All lights , radioi, etc work well.

The pills are still on the key but it's as though it's in security mode. Does the PEK interact with the key or security system? Could the key be damaged, even though the pills are still entact? If the key is damaged, how do I find out the correct ohms of the pills in order to get another one?

Thanks for any help provided.
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 07:46 AM
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The PKE fob has nothing to do with the no start problem. The resistor may have lost a connection, even though it is still in place. In that case you should still be able to measure it. If you (or a locksmith or someone at a place like Radio Shack) can't try going to a dealer, I think they have records for each VIN. When you get it figured out, get an extra key made.
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by markKlein
The PKE fob has nothing to do with the no start problem. The resistor may have lost a connection, even though it is still in place. In that case you should still be able to measure it. If you (or a locksmith or someone at a place like Radio Shack) can't try going to a dealer, I think they have records for each VIN. When you get it figured out, get an extra key made.

Mark is so quick on these responses, I have to just agree with him usually.

I would say try another key. If you don’t have one, too late to say "get a spare key" and you will have to go the route of the VIN as Mark indicated.

But check your key pellet contacts carefully. If you're LUCKY, you may have got some glue on the contacts and it's not making contact at all. Look real carefully and you can scrape the contacts real carefully just to make sure and clean it up with some alcohol. Then check it with an ohm meter to see if you can get a reading.

If it still does not work, post your resistance results so we can see if it at least fits into the window of the 16 keys values.
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 01:04 PM
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[QUOTE=41canine;1578716452]Thanks for the help. I went out today and it started. Really confused now, but since it's working I'll get another key made. Thank you again.
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 01:23 PM
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[QUOTE=41canine;1578716493]
Originally Posted by 41canine
Thanks for the help. I went out today and it started. Really confused now, but since it's working I'll get another key made. Thank you again.
You probably had a VATS activation event.

Clean your old key contacts with some alcohol. Also find out what your Key number (for resistance value) is so you have that information in the future if needed.
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 08:27 PM
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While it was still running, I got another key from Chevy. He said it was a "3 code key". Would that be, or refer to the resistance? He said they couldn't determine the key from the VIN. He said if there wasn't a key to copy, the car would have to be towed in and it would take "several hours" for someone to determine the right key. Does that sound right??? Someone mentioned a VATS episode. Could that be a one-time thing, or an intermittent situation?

Thanks again for the help. I've never had a problem before, and want to know if it's something I should be on the lookout for.
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 09:50 PM
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That all sounds all right in the ball park.

"Key code 3" is nominal of 681 ohms and a value range of 650-728 ohms. Anything in that range will make the car run.

Having a spare key at home and knowing your key code will save you a boat load of money if you main key is lost.
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