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need a little info long term LT1 owners...
I purchased the ATI 917269 with a 69A hub
there is no way to install the balancer without A lifting the motor or B un-installing the rack and pinion... this is un-acceptable.. I have a lunati race crank, brand is irrelevant but as we know it's keyed... I just installed the engine and trans... who has a quality keyed non fluid balancer
that will install & remove like OE
Why not just get a keyed stock hub and stock balancer? I think a keyed stock hub from Golen Engine Service is $100. You can get rebuilt stock balancers from the local parts stores for about $80.
Thanks for the tip... I was thinking of that route... I purchased this Jegs combo
that way i'm not dealing with my old balancer that will not like a motor pushing close to 600 ponies...
Why is the hub fitment poor? ATI states pretty clearly that their hub needs a final hone to fit on the crank.
It's been very well documented on this forum and others that you can't install the ATI balancer with the engine in the car.
I'll admit I'm curious....why install the engine before installing the hub and balancer? The nice thing about the C4 is that you can install the engine fully dressed, including the intake, headers, ps reservoir, plug wires, tensioner, AIR system if you retained it, etc.
Why is the hub fitment poor? ATI states pretty clearly that their hub needs a final hone to fit on the crank.
It's been very well documented on this forum and others that you can't install the ATI balancer with the engine in the car.
I'll admit I'm curious....why install the engine before installing the hub and balancer? The nice thing about the C4 is that you can install the engine fully dressed, including the intake, headers, ps reservoir, plug wires, tensioner, AIR system if you retained it, etc.
has nothing to do with ID/OD fitment I do not have a OE crank... so no I did not need to hone.... as the lunati nose fit perfect.. the hub ATI created is 5 inches total length... I had plans of eliminating the opti and installing my Opti inside my converted distributor. and so on. but decided to wait till I had my conversion is dialed before...getting into this.. I also did not know what balancer to use. as i really wanted to use my TCI rattler... I also learned the hard way ATI with there hub design... you can not install with the engine in the bay... I don't know about anyone else but I'm sure as hell not going to lift the engine or pull the rack... if i need to change the opti or replace a seal..etc.. very poor of ATI to force you to.. they could have made there LT1 balancer and hub combo just like OE.. PS when you have high HP ATI highly recommends you check you balancer every year and re-build at least 2 years... again forcing you to lift the engine or pull the rack. very poor planing and engineering.
Last edited by THE 383 admiral; Sep 27, 2011 at 03:09 PM.
I agree that ATI could have done better on the design but that's the FUN of these cars. When I tell people that I had to pull my rocker panel to change the battery they think I'm kidding.
OK now for the ridicules. kicker. The jegs house brand balancer is 100% identical to ATI.. sold at summit.. but jegs has the correct OE billet hub... why is this ATI could not accomplish this??? with the "SUPER" damper
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I bought the ATI balancer and hub from Summit as a kit.
I went from the press fit 92 crank snout to a keyed crank snout on my 383.
My mechanic installed it on the 383 before installing the engine so I don't know how it would go on with the engine in.
It does look like it fits like the stock one - IIRC it has different bolts to hold it on the ATI hub.
the hub is a great find... I received the 555-51606 10% balancer... mis-drilled holes can only use 2... next it will not line up with the rest of the pulleys.. to short around .500
unless ATI really hosed this part... is there anyone anymore?? that makes parts or does a job that I do not have to fix or modify
the hub is a great find... I received the 555-51606 10% balancer... mis-drilled holes can only use 2... next it will not line up with the rest of the pulleys.. to short around .500
unless ATI really hosed this part... is there anyone anymore?? that makes parts or does a job that I do not have to fix or modify
I'll bet the balancer is for an F body. It looks alot like my old firebirds balancer. Do you think that billet hub will work with a stock corvette balancer?
100% for now I'm using my stock balancer, with the billet hub.. till a vender gets there yard stick calibrated..
Tada no engine lifting or removing rack. just had to drill a pilot hole.. the hub has a roll pin
Last edited by THE 383 admiral; Oct 1, 2011 at 11:26 PM.
Removing the Rack & pinion steering unit to install your ATI Super Damper would be the easy way to do it with a 2- post car lift or a drive on 4 -post lift.
Borrow a friends shop work bay for the evening if you can.
Ok. Cool. One piece of advice. Take that hub and balancer to a shop to have it balanced. They are zero balanced from the factory but with the new hub it might change balance.
Here is an ASP 22 percent underdriven option for you.
Removing the Rack & pinion steering unit to install your ATI Super Damper would be the easy way to do it with a 2- post car lift or a drive on 4 -post lift.
Borrow a friends shop work bay for the evening if you can.
Sorry 81 Big.. I do have access to a 4 post lift anytime... I know the super damper is a nice piece... but I'm not falling into ATI's trap
when something goes wrong... the BS begins...
Ok. Cool. One piece of advice. Take that hub and balancer to a shop to have it balanced. They are zero balanced from the factory but with the new hub it might change balance.
Here is an ASP 22 percent underdriven option for you.