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I've got a small pair of needle nose pliers that I use for electrical work. They snuck right down in the hole and twisted it back and forth about twice and it was done. Hope yours is that easy but it's not usually an issue. Good luck with the rest of the job.
Thanks, I'll have to get a good pair of needle nose at work. Mine are just too big.
get a smaller diameter bolt, put it against the tang, give it a quick tap with a hammer and itll break off.
Use compressed air to get it out of the hole. Make sure you catch it or cover up any other openings to the motor if you go this route. You can also put grease on the end of the smaller diameter bolt and hope it sticks to it.
It seems the GM inserts don't have the notch so it will break off easily. I had to use a ground down screw driver to bend the tang back and forth until it broke off. Driving a punch down onto the tang didn't work either as it just bent the tang down to the bottom of the hole before it would break off. I've got three tangs off and only 13 to go. At least there is a light at the end of the tunnel. BTW, the ARP studs fit properly with the tangs removed.
did GM helicoil them from the factory? Or did a previous owner do it to streghten the threads? Aluminum can only be torqued so many times before the studs start to wear...when I take my heads off the winter I will be helicoiling all of the threads where the intake bolts to...the accessory bolts should be just fine.
did GM helicoil them from the factory? Or did a previous owner do it to streghten the threads? Aluminum can only be torqued so many times before the studs start to wear...when I take my heads off the winter I will be helicoiling all of the threads where the intake bolts to...the accessory bolts should be just fine.
According to the FSM, the LT1/4 heads all had inserts. The OEM studs are shorter than the ARP studs.
BTW, I got all the tangs out and the studs fit correctly. Problem solved.