you forgot to mention that Jesse's car has the complete stock interior still installed in it. Keep the hood shut - loose the slicks and it appears as non mild mannored daily driver. This car - like Jesse(though under different names as a vendor/non vendor over the years) -has been around the CF for a good while - his combo still pulls the front wheels (up) with no breakage problems. If I'm not mistaken the whole purpose of the "weelies" is to show/market the strength of the "bolt in" solid rear coversion that he manufactures.

We all know that if you want the car's first move to be "foward" (not up) then install some weelie bars out back. Ski's weelies are done intentionally....and yet his car is still "quick".

Back to the thread:
You can build a "drag car" out of just about anything - some cars just cost "more" to "build". C4s are pretty inexpensive platform....."build" it.

 

It seems I've seen several posts in different threads from members advising against his setup. Most of these claims have gone unanswered.?

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...r-reviews.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...on-kits-6.html

 

I agree. I'd save the 1/4 mile for a stripped down, modded up, F-Body.

Throw in a 9 inch, sticky tires, mess with the suspension geometry, build a trans well, big stall, and throw in whatever engine build you want. That's the recipe for consistent times.

You're only as quick as what you want to spend.

 

Not me.

If You finish your build on your TT or twin supercharged C4,
I cant wait to see you run low 7's or in the 6's Bill.

Your target horsepower is well north of 2,000 HP I am sure.

Frankie was an awesome driver.
Crazy too.

He Nearly died in that 1969 Race Camaro more than once.

You & everyone else on C4 are welcome to beat what Frankie accomplished.
Glad I was around to help out back then.

I am not happy with Jesse trying to sell me a POS 4- link kit.
And its a POS.
I showed pics to others that are long time drag racers.
Trying to nail me for $2,500 ,
Nothing welded.
No weld in tube inserts.
No coil over shocks included for $2,500.
No guarantee.

I bought much more from Summit racing for $375.00 with shipping to me.

 

DAMN

 

Fastest street car shootout.

Yes.

20 miles of driving.

Drove it on the street every chance Frankie Had.

Rode shotgun strapped in a few times.
Nitrous off.

Nitrous on and street driven 1/4 mile pass.

 

I see now.

 

I got nothing against You Bill.

I think You are KOOL.

I have to work hard to get the $$$$ to get my projects going & hopefully completed someday just like You & everyone else on C4.

8's for me?

In my dreams.........LOL

Cool thought though.

I will build that rear diff ( solid please only) for a C4 or any other drag car.
If it breaks,
I will put both hands behind my back & let you take 2 swings at me as hard as you can.

I am that good with racing rear diffs.

Brian

 

Yes,
A bolt on combo will be reliable.

 

A bolt on LT1 six speed on test and tune nights should not be a problem for the D44. You'll be lucky to run low 12's since the track in usually not prepped. How did we get in the 8's on this thread.LOL

 

http://youtu.be/omdgtFKAOQ0

 

 

Brian Ambrosini FTW though

 

I am thinking about doing this with a Ford 8.8. How about a How To. It would help many of us.

Thanks,

Tony

 

Sounds crazy & real out of line for us C4 guys...........

If you go on Sammy's C4 Dana 44 build I did recent,
the 1970 Charger my bud Bob has.

We replaced the stock 8-3/4" inch rear with a New "B" body Mopar style Dana 60.

The stock MOPAR 8-3/4 " inch housing & center section is very compact compared to most rear diffs.

Was thinking its perfect candidate to install into a C4 with 4- link kit do it yourself project on the cheep $.

MOPAR 8-3/4" rears were standard equipment with the early aluminum headed race 426 Hemi of 1964 & 1965.
Legend has those engines made over 600 HP with open headers.

MOPAR 8-3/4 " rears are cheep to buy $.
From $50 to $400 with a posi unit.
rebuild, add gears you want , race axles if you want them, ect.
$$$ still left over in the Bank.
Parts are readily available for them.
should be good for a 9 - second 2,800lb to 3,200 lb C4 car.

Ford 8.8's are strong too.
SIN here on C4 likely with other guys.
High HP & Torque 5.0's with over 600 HP on the ground will break the axle tubes free from the cast iron center section case.
I MIG Rosette Weld the tubes solid around the case myself.
Have to go slow welding.
switch areas after welding 1/2".
Tubes literally move from welding heat.
I can see the tubes move sometimes.
weld 180 degrees opposite,
tubes pull back.
Be careful if you try & do it yourself.
Ruin the axle housing with no experience & ignorance.

Real High HP of 1,400 HP or over can be done with 8.8" too.
Takes axle housing truss welded solid.
Like 4- wheel off roaders have.
Or the axle tubes will bend 1 or 2 inches off center from a hard launch.

At that power level I recommend a Race Ford 9 ".
Strange Engineering.
Mark Williams.
MOSER.

Or DANA 60.

Dana 60 super strong.
put over 2,000 HP through it with proper parts & good build.
Just very heavy in weight.

Enough power on hand justifies DANA 60 use though.

Strange Engineering Super Dana 60 very good choice.

BR

 

Because someone has a problem staying

ON TOPIC

The OP asked about durability of stock C4 IRS rear end and we hear about a
non Vette with a solid rear and a NOS BBC

 

/thread

 

I've broken numerous Dana 44s and other irs parts on my 84 bracket car. Switched to a 12 bolt which has worked well.

 

Maybe we should start a new thread about solid rear build. I read Sammy's D44 build. It was really good. I am interested in things like specs for 4 link arm lengths and what other procedures are used to use the competition engineering 4 link to work with our cars. What is done on the car end and on the axle tubes. Any help would be great. I may try it myself or get a local builder to help me. Any good builders in Colorado?

I need my car to be like 383vett. That car is sick.

My car ran 10's in Colorado for many years when someone else owned it so it is pretty well prepped. I bought it without a drivetrain. I am going to put a 5.3 turbo in it. Hopefully it will run 10's again. It has to be reliable, fast and streetable. I prefer not to use my trailer.

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...on-for-c4.html

http://www.bowtye8.tzo.com/bowtie8/C...5/9Inch_TN.htm

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...cs-inside.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...s-project.html

Jesse's disputed rear
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...sion-kits.html