C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Any Magic out there?

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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 08:38 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 1963SS
Back in my racing days we used to have a saying. "Lean is mean". But that is just up until all the blue smoke comes bellowing out the exhaust. Do you know why you holed a piston? Not thread related for sure but just curious.
They were 13:1 units, never used but from back in the 90's . Partner was "sure" we could cut them down.

Well, he cut them down.

My opinion is they had been a heat treated the heat treatment went Bye Bye.

Five others showed sign of melting in the same spots ... right at the plug tips.
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
Sorry, I'm a little slow. Is this a bellhousing bolt or a bolt going into the block near the oil filter?
The bolt for the bell housing that runs into the Block right at the oil filter location. Last one, lower left side.

So, I get itchy looking at block oil passages and oil ports and the Slave cylinder... all right there making me nervous about a failure [ another failure?].

Have made progress another two hours and a couple bits and it should be out. Then the 9/16 drill and the insert...

Darned anti climactic when you where one bolt from putting the trans on and then finish...

Heavy sigh...........
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 08:42 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Churchkey
If the bolt was bottomed in the hole then tightened until it broke it will never come out using any type of extractor. The hole will need to be drilled & tapped for a thread insert or larger diameter bolt.

After removing the broken easy out the bellhousing can be reinstalled & used as a drill guide.

Luck.
I conclude you are 100% correct.
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 09:05 AM
  #24  
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A helicoil is probably your best bet once you get this out.
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 09:13 AM
  #25  
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Another option is to remove the engine from your car once again.

Bring it to a machine shop that has an ELECTRON DRILL.

Uses a solid tungsten electrode that is slowly lowered down into the broken bolt with the broken off tap or easy out.
An high current electric arc slowly burns away the desired metal such as the broken off bellhousing bolt with the easy out stuck in it also.

Electron drills are the Cats Azz.
Does not harm the parent female threads, in your case your race engine block.
Older machine shops have them.
Hard to find.
My machinist bud MOPAR Bob has 1 at work.
Saved the day for me a few times having use that electron drill for tough scenarios like yours too.
Worth the $25 bill for me to pay my friend Bob.

BR
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 05:53 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 87 vette 81 big girl
Another option is to remove the engine from your car once again.

Bring it to a machine shop that has an ELECTRON DRILL.

Uses a solid tungsten electrode that is slowly lowered down into the broken bolt with the broken off tap or easy out.
An high current electric arc slowly burns away the desired metal such as the broken off bellhousing bolt with the easy out stuck in it also.

Electron drills are the Cats Azz.
Does not harm the parent female threads, in your case your race engine block.
Older machine shops have them.
Hard to find.
My machinist bud MOPAR Bob has 1 at work.
Saved the day for me a few times having use that electron drill for tough scenarios like yours too.
Worth the $25 bill for me to pay my friend Bob.

BR

Oh!! the engines out.. never got back in from the last episode with Murpy? Sitting in a hook, on a forklift right now.

Good news is we finally got the bloody easy out "out". Six hours of drilling? Your route would have been smarter, but we kept saying " This is going to pop out in a minute...."

Now, JB weld and a 9/16" insert curing. Hopefully this will be the end of it.

We had planned on a shake down at Atl Drag Strip on the 28th as a prelude to a NASA event 12/4..... A little " iffy" now. [ week end warriors ] .
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