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I've been having trouble with the dash going very dim/out and the turn signal ligs coming on==symptom of grounding issues.
I've opened the dash, cleaned conenctions, examined both PCBs, insatlled new bulbs & sockets, etc. Still the problem persists.
I just ohmed out the D1,D2,D3 connections to batt gnd and get 4-5 Ohms resistance. I think I should see 0.1 Ohm or so; anyone with experience here have an opinion??
As usually, it comes usefull again Batee and his site http://www.batee.com/corvette/index.htm i think you know about it,my atary works fine for some months then goes dark for some months again,i performed all batee advices...no way, but i think, when it comes alive again,if now is alive then it isn't broken...i give 3 new ground wire to it,like batee explains,the same...
My attached facebook album has pics of when I had to fix my digi dash. I had to replace 2 grounding jumper wires and removes someone previous failed attempt at fixing it (the fuse).
Your right the ground should read about nil. If your signal lights are constantly lit its a pretty good indicator of bad grounding. You can tie all three together and carry it to a known good ground. I drilled a 1/8" hole in the firewall next to the big harness connector in the left side footwell and carried the new ground wire to the frame to battery ground then dabbed silicone over the wire and hole.
Your right the ground should read about nil. If your signal lights are constantly lit its a pretty good indicator of bad grounding. You can tie all three together and carry it to a known good ground. I drilled a 1/8" hole in the firewall next to the big harness connector in the left side footwell and carried the new ground wire to the frame to battery ground then dabbed silicone over the wire and hole.
Wow yeah that would solve the grounding problem. With the flickering your probably not going to see where its broken very easily. My guess is the solder to one of the pins is cracked, or like mine one of the connector pins actually cracked in half and I couldn't tell till I tried to move it. The white connector that has the connections between the two PCB is the area of like 90% of the failures.
Yeah the pin problem was actually the culprit of my no light issue. I soldered a wire on each of the PCB's at the + pin and jumpered around the bad part. Still working great.
If the interior of the car has been exposed to super high humidity conditions/levels (or it just got wet) give it a few days or a week to dry out on its own before you jump in and start to "fix" things....those connections inside the cabin are not the most electrically "sound" things.
The good news is that I found one of the inter-board connectors a bit burned so I hit the pins with some new solder and the dash has been working solidly for over a day during several "test drives"...
I didn't run the new ground from battery through the firewall; at least not while the display is working well.
I'm now in the process of reassembling the dash; hope to wrap it for the season.
I love the Atari Dash . One reason I love my 87 IT is also a common thread here.
It is hard to believe, but the newest Atari dash is 22 years old now. Sheesh..
But I was lucky a couple of years back and found a guy local to fix mine. He had to do a lot of resoldering and replaced a couple of parts. But one thing he found were bad grounds.
Either later today or tomorrow, I have to replace one of the back lights in my dash. I know it isnt a hard job, just one that takes a bit of time.
I didn't run the new ground from battery through the firewall; at least not while the display is working well.
I'm now in the process of reassembling the dash; hope to wrap it for the season.
FYI: there is a super hard to see/locate non serviceable thermal style switch/component that is inline with the main cluster ground. The component is located right in with the bundle of wires as soon as they exit the firewall plug (inside the cabin). The purpose is this inline component is to "open" the circut when cabin temperature is well below freezing - this prevents the LCDs energized to prevent panel damage. The reason I mention this is because they can go bad/intermitant and cause problems such as your describing.
...I have to replace one of the back lights in my dash. I know it isnt a hard job, just one that takes a bit of time.
I found it a real PITA to change those bulbs from the front so I installed new bulbs while all were out.
The reason I mention this is because they can go bad/intermitant and cause problems such as your describing.
Yes I found that switch and jumpering it made no difference; it's recommended by Gordon Killebrew (in his book on the digi dash) to simple leave those contacts jumpered but I replaced the module...for now.
Today I installed the dash pad, all bezels, the hush panel and retested the illumination...all is AOK...thanks to all again.