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For my strip only car, I have an adjustable fan control set to turn on at 195. I also have a manual fan switch on the console that I turn on before a run to get the temperatures to 160-170. After the burnout, I will turn the manual fan swith off. During the run, the fan is not running which helps decrease drag by the alternator. I know it's not much, but in bracket racing, we're looking for every hundreth and for consistancy.
For my strip only car, I have an adjustable fan control set to turn on at 195. I also have a manual fan switch on the console that I turn on before a run to get the temperatures to 160-170. After the burnout, I will turn the manual fan swith off. During the run, the fan is not running which helps decrease drag by the alternator. I know it's not much, but in bracket racing, we're looking for every hundreth and for consistancy.
How do you ever get the temp down to those numbers. Even if it is 50* outside. I can run my secondary fan all day and never get below 190*
Do you have an over size radiator? (and maybe a 160 stat??).
For my strip only car, I have an adjustable fan control set to turn on at 195. I also have a manual fan switch on the console that I turn on before a run to get the temperatures to 160-170. After the burnout, I will turn the manual fan swith off. During the run, the fan is not running which helps decrease drag by the alternator. I know it's not much, but in bracket racing, we're looking for every hundreth and for consistancy.
Very true !
hard to believe, but true. I saw the estimated cost in HP for each pulley on a C4....3 for water pump. 5 for alt, 7 for a/c compressor, 5 for power steering. (IIRC...)
If you doubt, bottom out your power window at idle and watch the tach and listen...you can hear the engine bog slightly as the alt reacts to the power window motors demand for amps as the motor can't turn anymore.
Regarding the temps...
Mines an enhanced motor with rad upgrades and tune control of fans.....If I put the 160 stat in there it will run at 169 all day on the freeway if ambients are under 85. I have to run a 180-190 T-stat to keep the temps up enough for stable tuning and performance and so its gets hot enough to rid itself of internal moisture.
For the track I wired in 2 relays into a adjustable timing circuit in the 96GS. I have both fans turn on low speed and run the elect water pump. I have the timer set for 7 min (adj 0-30min) and it cools the car off very well. In cooler outside temps it will drop way down from 180 to 130. I used a timer so I don't forget about it and kill the battery.
On the OBD2 cars sometimes you will get a SVC light on but not a check engine if your controlling the fans and the computer tries to turn them on when the car is running. No biggie just restart the car normally and it goes away.
Good idea. I've seen more than a couple of cars with dead batteries in the staging lanes because the water pump and fan were left on for 45 minutes or so.