C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

95 LT1 Tone Generator/Chime Module Question

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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 07:36 PM
  #1  
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Default 95 LT1 Tone Generator/Chime Module Question

I own a '95 LT1 & recently my warning chime/Tone Generator decided not to work anymore. Normally I wouldnt care, as I felt I could remember to turn cetain things off when it came to do it. Well, when I realized I left my parking lights on, and all I got was a TICKTICKTICK trying to start the car, I then knew I counted on the chime more than I hoped.

Ive read thru various forums that the Chime Module is under the Dash Pad and the Pad has to be removed to get to it, which is fine, the pad needs some TLC and this would be a good experience removing it... However, I have read that some have had this trouble when replacing the stock radio with an aftermarket one. A few months ago I did have my stock unit serviced for belts, and everything worked fine at the time, so should I direct my attention to the radio harness in any way first? I did put CCM in diagnostic mode to test the chime and did not work. Also, the fuses are fine

I know I said I would like to remove the Dash Pad, but if it can be avoided so I dont break something, like plastic tabs, all the better. If it comes to the Chime Module being the culprit, has anyone fixed it? Cold solder joints maybe? Or somewhere else to look?

Any heads up with this is truly appreciated..

I do have the GM Shop Manuals for this car.

J.
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Triads
I own a '95 LT1 & recently my warning chime/Tone Generator decided not to work anymore. Normally I wouldnt care, as I felt I could remember to turn cetain things off when it came to do it. Well, when I realized I left my parking lights on, and all I got was a TICKTICKTICK trying to start the car, I then knew I counted on the chime more than I hoped.

Ive read thru various forums that the Chime Module is under the Dash Pad and the Pad has to be removed to get to it, which is fine, the pad needs some TLC and this would be a good experience removing it... However, I have read that some have had this trouble when replacing the stock radio with an aftermarket one. A few months ago I did have my stock unit serviced for belts, and everything worked fine at the time, so should I direct my attention to the radio harness in any way first? I did put CCM in diagnostic mode to test the chime and did not work. Also, the fuses are fine

I know I said I would like to remove the Dash Pad, but if it can be avoided so I dont break something, like plastic tabs, all the better. If it comes to the Chime Module being the culprit, has anyone fixed it? Cold solder joints maybe? Or somewhere else to look?

Any heads up with this is truly appreciated..

I do have the GM Shop Manuals for this car.

J.


I have a 1992, I think they are the same. I took the front bezel off the radio/A/C head unit and removed the radio and A/C head unit and reached up under the dash where the tone generator is and gave it a pull and it came out with wires attached. It is on a spring clip. I then replaced it and valco it to the fire wall behind the A/C unit. Plenty of room for it. That way if it went out again it would be easy to replace it.

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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 05:28 PM
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Im betting it has cold solder joints. The chimer in my 1991 had issues, reflowing the large connectors fixed it.
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 05:37 PM
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Thanks for the input, im torn as to just remove the top so I can try and fix some of the lifting of the corners for the heat, or just go thru the middle and worry about the dash pad later..

As for replacing, ive read that its a discontinued item, is there anywhere that sells old stock?

Again, thanks for the input
J
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 02:27 AM
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I bought mine on Ebay for about $35. I had found one new someplace, cant remember where but is was a $300 deal if I remember correctly. I have not gotten around to changing mine yet but I understand its a static sensitive part so take precautions with your new one when you get it. Maybe try corvette recycling?
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 10:44 AM
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I too re-flowed some solder on the major connectors on the board, took a few tries, but finally I got it working consistently. I'd try that before buying another that might be on the verge of losing functionality.
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 04:11 PM
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I'll give it a try in the next few days, pulling the radio & A/C controls to see if I can grab it..

Thanks.
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Gear Jammer
Im betting it has cold solder joints. The chimer in my 1991 had issues, reflowing the large connectors fixed
it.

Fixed mine back in 04 or so. The large "C" brass structure has to be soldered with lots of head so it will flow and solder properly. This seems to be a common problem and makes the chime unit intermittent at times.

When I bench tested initially, I did not find anything wrong and did not understand why it did not work. When I fixed it, was definitly a strange fix.

The pad does have to come off. You can't get at it from the radio or front items. Only from top.
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 10:39 PM
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OK, If i have to take the Top off, is there any pointers or hints as to make an easy first time removal? Such as what I dont have to take off first, or what needs to be removed for an easier operation.. After those bolts are removed ( i believe I read 6 hold it down ) how are the plastic tabs oriented, just so i dont put unnecessary force on them & break them off. Also for those that have removed the top, did you perform any maintenance on the top itself? The corners are starting to rise, or lift up; is this fixable? Also, once I have to top off, would i be a good idea to relocate the chime module as a "just Incase"?

any help to ease this pain is appreciated..

Looks like i have something to do Saturday.. yippee

J.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Triads
OK, If i have to take the Top off, is there any pointers or hints as to make an easy first time removal? Such as what I dont have to take off first, or what needs to be removed for an easier operation.. After those bolts are removed ( i believe I read 6 hold it down ) how are the plastic tabs oriented, just so i dont put unnecessary force on them & break them off. Also for those that have removed the top, did you perform any maintenance on the top itself? The corners are starting to rise, or lift up; is this fixable? Also, once I have to top off, would i be a good idea to relocate the chime module as a "just Incase"?

any help to ease this pain is appreciated..

Looks like i have something to do Saturday.. yippee

J.
Front what I remember, the right side hush panel has to come off, trim on left side, fuse panel and trim on right side. No screws toward the front but might be stuck as you have to pull it toward you.

Wires not long enough to relocate chimes and no real place to go. If you get it fixed, it will probably be good for another 15 years.

Fix the pad as required when you have it off if need be.
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