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So since winter hit the car hasn't warmed up over 155 coolant temp unless I'm sitting at a stand still for 5 or more minutes. I talked to the previous owner and he said there is a 160 Degree thermostat in the car. So the car is never going into closed loop. So she feels a little sluggish.
Couple questions, will this harm the car?
Can it be programmed for If I replace the ECM with a newer P4 flash system or should I just put a 180 degrees thermostat in and call it a day.
I talked to the previous owner and he said there is a 160 Degree thermostat in the car. So the car is never going into closed loop. So she feels a little sluggish.
.
FYI, the car goes into closed loop at 122 degrees.
Replace the T-stat with a 180 and make sure your fans do not run all the time.
FYI, the car goes into closed loop at 122 degrees.
Replace the T-stat with a 180 and make sure your fans do not run all the time.
Thanks, all the information so far online was that it goes into closed loop at 180. She idles really nice once she gets above 180 - 185. Will it hurt the car to stay with the 160? It needs a coolant flush but I haven't wanted to do it yet. If I change the thermostat I might as well flush the system.
The fans do run all the time after 180 how do I stop that? During the summer months she'll get to 225 in traffic. even with the 160 and the fans running constantly.
I purchased the 180 degree thermostat today. Such a cheap part. I also purchased a tensioner pulley and some ultra black silicone RTV sealant.
I replaced the pulley and white lithium-ed the crap out of the squeaky assembly. Removed the valve covers and removed the leaky valve cover gaskets. Cleaned the magnesium valve covers with a wire brunch and some brake cleaner, there was a ton of old sealant stuck in them. Cleaned the mating head surface with some brake cleaner. I also noticed a few of the bad leaking spots had a very shinny surface so I took a wire brush to it to porous it up and seal better. I am going back to factory spec and just using a the RTV Silicone since no matter what gasket I used leaked.
Gotta go out and torque them again in a couple hours.
I'm staring at the thermostat part and wondering how long it will take me to replace it.
I assume it goes:
Drain half the radiator
Undo the 2 bolts holding the thermostat housing flange.
Pull out old one.
Put in new one.
Then reassemble.
Any tips or anything I might run into that some advice would be helpful?
I always remove the Throttle Body when doing a thermostat. This gives you way more room and only takes 15 minites if you've done a coolant bypass. Without removing the TB you can't see what your doing and can screw up the job. Make sure when cleaning the housing and intake that your carefull and don't dig or gouge the aluminum , also make sure its perfectly clean and dry before putting sealer on..... I just put in a 180 degree high flow thermostat last night and it took me about 1 hour........WW
If I have the thermostat off, I always fill the motor with coolant through the intake manifold befoe buttoning up the manifold housing. I've never had to burp the system after doing this.
Way too cold today for the thermostat change to be laying on garage floor ill wait till next weak and take it in and put it on a lift.
The thermostat is on the top of the engine , why do you need a lift???? ....To drain the coolant just pull the bottom radiator hose off from up top, you don't need to drain the whole radiator, just drain it down a few inches......WW
The thermostat is on the top of the engine , why do you need a lift???? ....To drain the coolant just pull the bottom radiator hose off from up top, you don't need to drain the whole radiator, just drain it down a few inches......WW
I don't have an oil pan only a bucket. So I have to raise her high enough to get over a bucket. I'm kinda cheap like that sometimes. I got a five month old to by diapers for Only 4 dollars an hour for a lift on base. Raise her up about 2 foot and go to town.
Thermostat replaced. Good to go. Fan comes on at 195 off at 175 but not confirmed off yet. Noticed the squeaky sound again but not any where near as bad, so that means I'll have to replace the tensioner assembly at some point. I keep spraying more white Lithium grease in there, got most of the squeak gone but I'm assuming im not hitting the inner spring with the grease and that's why it still squeaks a bit. Valve cover, still leaks a bit right near outer bolt near fire wall on both sides. Does better with just silicone rtv. Gonna have to replace the heads and covers to solve the problem I guess.
Last edited by BroCorvette; Nov 25, 2011 at 03:24 PM.