Anybody know how to build a buget 383??? One that will stay together and make some HP.. It's a LT-4 and street ride with 140,000 runs good dynode @ 325 Hp..I don't think the motor can handle anymore Hp with the high miles.. ready ro rebuild looking for 100Hp,no funny gas Ect. just motor..I looked into it came up $7,000 got to be a cheaper way..I can do the work.. Budget and Hp sounds like BOOM..I haven't built a motor in a wile might learn somthing new....THANKS...

 

"budget" 383 lower end kits (crank, rods, pistons) start around $650. LT lower ends, even LT4, interchange with garden variety small block stuff (1986 one piece rear seal onward) so don't get frustrated looking up LT4 specific cranks, pistons, rods or bearings.

there are tons of 383 build ups on this (and other chevy) forums.

 

Possible depending on your level of expertise. About $1250 for a budget cast steel balanced bottom end with SRP pistons with rings and bearings. That's internally balanced and includes H-beam rods which are easier to clearance. The pistons you'll probably want for your build will be a "D-Dish" -16cc. That will get you somewhere around 10.8-11.0 to one compression. Balancing is the key to making a cast crank engine live at 450 FWHP. It's well within the safe limits for that crank. If you want a forged crank add about $400 to that

A head/cam kit from some good porters will run about $1700 or so. You can spend more but that will let you achieve your Horsepower goals. You should already have roller rockers.

Add about $400 for oil pump, gaskets and stuff Machine costs vary wildly from area to area but around here the typical costs are:

Bore .030 $150.00
Assemble pistons/rods $40.00
Install cam bearings $35.00
Tank and clean block $50.00
Clearance block $125.00

Let's add a hundred for misc. and call the machine work $500.00
Parts $400
Heads and cam $1700

It appears that around $2600 give or take will get you to your horsepower goals. You won't have to have a bigger throttle body to get to about 450 horsepower. You can get one but it will be a luxury. The EFI 502 GMPP crate engine comes with a 48mm throttle body and it makes over 500 HP.

A set of headers for about $550.00 and we're around $3200.00 Let's call that 3500 to give you some "wiggle room". That's about as cheap as you can get. I would personally spend the extra $250 and get a neutral balanced damper and you will blow up your transmission if you don't get it rebuilt. Since you have a manual transmission you should be good as long as your clutch holds up.
With the damper you're looking at somewhere around $4000 including more "wiggle room". You should have a minimum of 450 FWHP and safely rev to 6200-6400 or thereabouts.

Part of the head/cam money will include a custom ground camshaft designed around you specific needs.

 

Heads/cam/intake are the expensive part. Shortblock does not have to be big bucks if you keep your horsepower goals reasonable.

 

Do the shortblock and simply refresh your heads with a valve job and new springs.Add a cam and you are done.Stock lt4 heads will work well on a 383.
Upgrade to better heads later if you still want more power.

 

Thanks sounds good better that the $7,000 thing I was looking at. I must have been looking a race stuff..It's just a old Hot Rod I guess I don't need the race stuff and have some of the parts to get started biger T.body 52mm Ect. It's a 6-speed with very high $$$$ cluch flywheel and Hurst Ect. don't need any of that trans stuff. Looks like cast stuff will hold up on the street.. I can live with $3,500 ..I have so much money in the 96 now it turned into a girl friend on the side.. Thanks for all your help..

 

The heads and intake for me were the big thing for me that cost in my build also the short block was not a big deal.

Heads extra $1200.00 Intake anouther $1200.00.

 

It's only my opinion, but building a "budget 383"
is like going to the hospital needing an operation and asking for a cheaper Dr.

You can find better prices on parts but I wouldn't go for the cheap stuff.

Do it right the first time, you won't regret it.

 

Your right ..Was not looking for " Cheap " just another way to go that's all I was after was some input on how to build a GOOD 383 without stending $7,000 to $10,000 on a good street motor..It's not what I want thing it's what is involed in just a good 383 for a way tooooo much in an old C-4 now..Got to shop around..Thanks and very right been there and done that BOOM on cheap..Now know were to get any good parts at a good price?????? You can sak for a Doc. that live outside the city his house payments are chaper and and I hope his bill also.... THANKS....

 

Less cost is a good thing but as we all know you get what you pay for Just about everything I tryed to save some money on like used Roller liffters they say can be a good deal I ended up buying a use set for cheep then a new set, It been cheeper in the long run to get the new ones from the get go.

I think I have about $5500.00 in my 383 I afraid to add the receipts up scary thought HA HA and make sure My wife dont find them LOL.

Cheep can be good sometime others time they just come back and bit you ask me how I know this.

 

Sounds like you got a nice motor..I have too much in this 96 now... It's a great ride but I don't know about putting another $5-6,000 in it..I have $17-$20 in it now Like you I don't want to know,,You can gold plate them nobody will give anything for them .. I might want to sell it and get something else ...Not that you can never get what you got in them back but these C-4s have one price and that's all anybody will give for them..So to put more big money in it??? ...I'm going to shop around and see what I can come up with LT-4 alrealy has some good stuff in it..Not cheap a( good buy )is not a bad thing //Cheap is one thing a good buy is another... Thanks...

 

Dont think most would admit what we have in our cars.
It doesnt matter really its all about fun.

Got 25-30 in a 6k C4 who cares as long as you dig it when you turn the key. Comes a point when you either sell it or say the hell with it you know what you got so open up the wallet til youre done

These arent stocks just a means of not thinking for awhile.
Least thats what its about over here and worth every penny.

Youd just find something else to spend it on anyway.

 

So true. Times have tighten up so one has to be wise about these things..I'm in Houston I think I found a shop here that I can get a 383 for around $3,500 ,,They sell motors all over US been there for 46 years..Going to check them out be a good street 383 around 425 hp may may get a better deal if they build my short block..Most of the work will be on me that's OK I'll know what's in it...It pays to look around...Don't mind another $4,000 in the thing after that it's done..Will have good $20-$22 in this one..The 95 I have $21 in it can't see anything I have done to it..Can be seen @radar502 ..I tell anybody it's not cheap to rework an old C-4 fun hell yes cheap ....NOT.. But that's not bad for what you get ..I can run with C-5s and some C-6s all day long..this past weekend was bumber to bumper with a 2005 ZO-6 in the curves $60,000 in his $20,000 in mine ..That's the fun part..Got to love it...

 

I just have to laugh when I hear that " I have $XXX in my car".

You don't add up what you do for fun otherwise.

All I'm saying is don't build a short rod, cast crank, hypereutectic 383.

It's not worth it in the long run.

 

3-3500 should get you a halfwaydecent shortblock

Are you referring to ATK in Tx?

 

I have been running "junk" 383 parts for years with success. Tune up is critical on any build, so make sure you focus there as well. If you are going to spin it above 6000 rpm often, invest in a set of aftermarket roller lifters. Factory roller lifters (and their replacements) are heavy.